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Nope! No damage done with soaking in vinegar. This is a weak acid which will clean out any calcifications that have occured on the probe. Just make sure you rinse the probe well before recalibration.

Here's the poop on pH probes....for our use, the ebay/inexpensive ones are just fine. Here's what you need to do: Always keep it wet. Do NOT ever submerse the top part of the probe. Calibrate with pH 7 and pH 10 standards. If it gets eratic, soak in vinegar overnight, rinse and...

Just happened to me....logged in twice and told me I wasn't. Clicked on "Home" and that now showed that I was in fact logged in.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe "pearling" was when tiny oxygen bubbles formed at the tips of plants in a freshwater tank....and looked like tiny pearls. Since most of use don't have plants in our reef tanks, I'm going to guess the "pearling" you are seeing are the oxygen bubbles generated for...

Having a World War II Marine father, here's another little tidbit.....tomorrow (Monday, 11/10) is the Marine anniversary. So oorah to the Marines and to all other veterans.

Thanks Mike for the detail. First off, stop bitting your nails! (That's the mother in me talking.) :p What are the minute and hour settings for on that contoller part you are showing?

I'm old school and really like ReefKeeper 2's. I now own four of them....three in use and one as a backup. You can find them for $100 or less....I think I paid $50 for the last one I purchased. As evident by the fact that I can program it, you can be a blithering idiot and figure out how...

Calc reactors scare me! I heard too many stories of them going haywire and wiping out a tank. We've had a few members here who have had problems with calc reactors....hopefully they'll chime in. I'm a doser using BRS 1.1 pumps and DIY alk and calc solutions. After original expensive...

As stated, it could be as simple as a Ranco. I'm into "old school" ReefKeeper 2's, which you can find for under 100 bucks. The last one I purchased, I paid $50.

A BIG plus 1! The size of the tank has nothing to do with controlling temperature. Every heater will eventually fail....protect your tank with a controller.

How to Calibrate an Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater

Here's my two cents..... I have a JBJ 28 bare bottom and a 90 gallon with sand. The bare bottom is more of a PIA when trying to keep it clean. So I'm going with sand!

Edwin, looking good!

Wow Mike and Nik....nice looking fish.

That looks to be an 18 - 20 ounce curved claw hammer. :grin:

Welcome Joel! You have found a great LFS in Aquatic Obsessions. I'm right across the river from you in Sayreville. I also have a 90 gallon tank....custom 5 foot tank with a 40B sump. I'd suggest starting a "Tale of the Tank" and I'm sure you'll get all the advice you'll need.

I'd look into picking up a stock tank or two. There are two on Craigslist right now....100 gallon for $50 each.

What I'm saying is that there is not a single heater out there that won't eventually fail. It will fail in one of two ways; stuck on, where heat goes through the roof; stop working all together, suppling no heat. A controller will stop the first failure from happening. The second one can...

That's more than enough bacteria food.....you need to either boost nitrates (adding something like sodium nitrate) or lower phosphates (like running GFO)....to get the nitrate - phosphate ratio in line to what the bacteria need to eat the pellets, leaving you with a balanced low N/P tank.

You need both nitrates and phosphates for biopellets to work. If the ratio is off, one or the other won't be brought down. It's not necessarily the Redfield ratio (16:1, N to P), but in the ballpark. I'd run GFO to bring the phosphate down, and then let the pellets do their thing.