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Everything looks beautiful! Must have been a great swap for you to have picked up such cool corals ;D

The max dosage is X and if adding is only bring you back to Y you need to be adding 2X to get to X more than Y. It is a max INCREASE, AFAIK, not a max DOSAGE that you need to focus on. First step is to get it increasing. What corals are you growing in there?

Corals need fish poop. Not feeding fish? No fish poop. No fish poop, no coral food. If the water is too clear then the light penetration increases. If this happens too fast the corals bleach. I don't know. Like I said, it could have been ANYTHING. When things died (which they seemed to do one at...

We can't really pin it down to anything in particular. We were very busy and tank maintenance suffered. We changed water, like we normally do, 20% at a time but with new salt. Maybe the corals didn't like the fast change? Maybe the water was too clean? too dirty? Temperature spike? Who knows...

Let me tell you. It is way cooler than you can imagine. Recently (as we were preparing to attend MACNA in Atlanta and our frag swap) we had a devastating tank crash that eliminated nearly all of the SPS from our system. During the weeks that have followed, as our system slowly recovers, I have...

They look like the hawaiian variety. Someone around the club had them as I recall. I don't know of any problems with them.

And those blue LEDs that Wingo does seem to do the trick rather nicely!

The regular CaribSea is a fine enough grade to get moved around quite a bit. Do you plan on having that under the Flor Reef? Our sand is just about annoying and there isn't any in the center of our tank...

At your tanks young age and small size, just do a large scale water change.

Leathers will go through periods of shedding. During the time that they are shedding they suck in all their polyps and generally don't "open up again" until after they have shed their outer layer of skin. This is how they grow. If it is simply shedding making sure they have good flow will help...

Ideally you'd put your heaters on an aquacontroller (III, Pro, Junior) or a temp controller (Ranco, etc), in addition to their own thermostat. I've had the won brothers fail in the off position (luckily). They can also fail in the ON position. Ouch. The controller would cut the power to them and...

Heaters: 3 watts per gallon. 220 at least 660w of heat. Preferably 3 heaters to lessen the possibility that any one heater could take out your whole tank with a failure. 3 250w heaters. Your temp probe should be in the same body of water of the heater element if you have a separate thermostat on...

Thanks! I still contend though that it is lack of nutrient export ... not running the Ca reactor that is causing the HA. Maybe exacerbated by the reactor (binding to the wrong element), but if the nutrients wheren't there, the Ca reactor isn't creating them. Right?

You need to keep your containers covered (and tarped?). You definitely don't want acid rain in your tank water.

You may have trouble with new introductions or hair algae outbreaks over time with that long a light cycle. The other thing is that your fish and corals need their nighttime too and 15hrs of light is not typical. The fun thing with this hobby is it is completely a "Your Milage May Vary"...

I don't think this issue is particularly common specifically relating to hair algae. I have a Ca reactor on one tank and hair algae in the other. Consequently, the one with the HA is the one that doesn't have as high a maintenance schedule.

This is the one we ordered through the group buy, so many of us are using it.

Those things are awful. We have to tap ours any time they get turned off. IMHO they are not very reliable.

Wow.... that's a LONG light cycle. Most people do a 12 hr cycle with a 6-8hr "daytime" cycle.

Zenni would be happy to come every day if you'd let her! She had a blast too!