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Thanks Art for the response, but upon further investigation, it's not just the light.....crap! Putting my ear to the "yellow" dry side, I can hear it speeding up and slowing down. Putting my ear to the "red" dry side, I hear no change in the speed of the powerhead.....constant speed.

I have old Vortech MP40s that I run on "reef crest".....the yellow light. I'm sitting in the fishroom tonight and open up the panel exposing all my controls and the one controller is red??? So I'm figuring there must have been some little burp and all I need to do is click through the...

I'm seeing the same thing for the first time....and I've been running them for years. Who's pellets are you using? I've been using BRS since day one.

That is pretty neat. I'd think that 8000k is still too white for me. Are you able to get bulbs with more blue.....maybe 15000 to 20000?

Ouch! Four clowns in the same tank. Are they from the same brood? If not, once they pair off and one (or more) goes female, you'll have World War III on your hands. Good luck.

Granted, I'm color blind, but I still see that as a tank with ammonia and no nitrite or nitrate.....an un-cycled tank. Did you put in BioSpira or Dr. Tim's?

I just checked out the all-in-one flush valves.....pretty neat: I paid more for my flush kit, that didn't include the restrictor....and not only that, had to replace the valve about six months ago that cost me the same for these new flush valves. I wish I knew about these then. I also...

I can only say that the outcome is downright unbelievable. Great documentation Art.....I've got to believe you're smiling from ear to ear.

Just to be clear Bob, two meanings to "flush" 1. Divert water past the restrictor to back-flush the membrane. Typcially the manual ones look like this: 2. Divert water past the DI resin to allow breakthrough TDS to go to waste. The diverter valve from BRS looks like this. With...

Hate to say it, but you want / need zero ammonia. It's highly poisonous to the fish. The tank did go through a cycle, didn't it? If not, immediately put in BioSpira or some other nitrifying bacteria product.

Dancing in the street!!!! :dance: Great news Art. This is definitely putting this one in my library of knowledge.

I agree with the disclaimer.....but otherwise this is something that I'd be screaming for the rooftops.....something that kills bryopsis!!! :dance:

Red Sea Pro kit that includes alk, calc and mag.

I know it sounds counterintuitive, but you're better off adding the salt to room temperature / cool water, and once mixed, now heat it up. It's the calcium....it's a strange nut and actually is more soluble in cool water.

Oh boy.....that doesn't look good....but I think you've found the problem. Carbon....water changes....carbon....water changes....not necessarily in that order. Now how did that add to the cloudy tank situation you had?

John, you've got some great stuff at a good price that a newbie would love to have. Just looking at that complete RO/DI setup with pump, containers, etc. It took me a could years to eventually build up my RO/DI. Anyway, I mentioned this a couple weeks ago.....we need to open up our Deals...

Are you monitoring nitrates and phosphates......I'd almost think it's a viscous cycle of killing the algae while now also feeding the algae.

I've also seen DIY versions of this. I just wonder what that used roll of material smells like after X number of weeks. I know my wife yells at me when I leave a filter sock in the sink overnight.

I'd store it all. Just make sure the salt is sealed up good and tight....it's hygroscopic and likes to pick up moisture, and it it does, it will turn into a brick. With the GFO, again, make sure it's sealed up.....most are sold wet for a reason. Carbon is indestructible short of it...

How big is the tank? Where are the scratches? And how bad are they. I have scratches and I've learned to live with them.