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RO/DI ratings

Trio91

Trio91

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here is what i am currently using
Amazon.com: 3 PCS REVERSE OSMOSIS (RO) WATER FILTER SET- SEDIMENT, GAC, CARBON Block-10" |: Kitchen & Dining

is it safe to say that i may letting in fine sediment through my filters?

currently i am running:
  • 2x 5mic Sediment Filters
  • 1x GAC filter
  • 1x Carbon Block
  • and 1 DI resin....i do have a dual in-line TDS meter which i have running "in" before the RO membrane and "out" after the DI ....i also have a flush kit installed which i utilize for a few min before i begin production

would it make sense to "upgrade" the filters?

in the last pic of my thread....i am sure folks noticed some GHA, it's been slowly receding but it hasn't fully gone away...the cause is unknown....i am pointing my finger at my water quality
 
saltkreep88

saltkreep88

You can do much better, the lower the micron the better, .25 is awesome, .5 great, 1 micron usable, at 5 micron you can sometimes see with the human eye. The job of the sediment and the carbon is to protect the more expensive membrane, the sediment well takes of sediment and the carbon removes chlorine that would destroy the membrane very quickly, the sediment should be replaced if you see a pressure drop (if you have a gauge) and every 6 months if you dont, the carbon blocks should be replaced every 6 month regardless of usage (remember they protect from membrane failure). What is your tds in, tds after membrane, and tds after DI?
 
G

greg 45

IMO there is no best in the industry. Everyone's water going in is different . Here is my thought on this. My water coming in has low tds under 100.
What I need to remove is some nitrates 10 ish , the main problem is my phosphates is very high. Under 100 so I need to use more and a better grade di. TDS has a meaning but not the total answer. You can still have o TDS after your di and still be using dirty water for a term . Make shure all numbers are or you are creating another issue . Algae stars with make up water . Check you water going into ro/di and after.
 
Trio91

Trio91

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saltkreep88 said:
You can do much better, the lower the micron the better, .25 is awesome, .5 great, 1 micron usable, at 5 micron you can sometimes see with the human eye. The job of the sediment and the carbon is to protect the more expensive membrane, the sediment well takes of sediment and the carbon removes chlorine that would destroy the membrane very quickly, the sediment should be replaced if you see a pressure drop (if you have a gauge) and every 6 months if you dont, the carbon blocks should be replaced every 6 month regardless of usage (remember they protect from membrane failure). What is your tds in, tds after membrane, and tds after DI?
Click to expand...
TDS is 0....i usually run it until the incoming is about 2....i also do change them every 6 months....this time is did it early as i was setting up my new tank
 
Trio91

Trio91

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Staff member
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greg 45 said:
IMO there is no best in the industry. Everyone's water going in is different . Here is my thought on this. My water coming in has low tds under 100.
What I need to remove is some nitrates 10 ish , the main problem is my phosphates is very high. Under 100 so I need to use more and a better grade di. TDS has a meaning but not the total answer. You can still have o TDS after your di and still be using dirty water for a term . Make shure all numbers are or you are creating another issue . Algae stars with make up water . Check you water going into ro/di and after.
Click to expand...
thanx, well what i do have the dual readers looking at the in and out....i flush the system, then i run it until the TDS reaches 2 on the IN, then on the OUT it's 0....when i see it going from 0 to 1 on the out, i replace filters
 
saltkreep88

saltkreep88

If your tds is always zero out I would look elsewhere for the algae issues. And my advice in my first post is sound no matter what your incoming water is like. Do you test your phosphates?
 
Trio91

Trio91

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saltkreep88 said:
If your tds is always zero out I would look elsewhere for the algae issues. And my advice in my first post is sound no matter what your incoming water is like. Do you test your phosphates?
Click to expand...
Thanx for the info, I'm going to look into upgrading my filters, Im going to test my phosphates now and post
 
Trio91

Trio91

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I tested with an API test kit so it was kinda hard to tell, but if I had to guess it was about .25
 
njtiger24 aquariums

njtiger24 aquariums

Officer Emeritus
Article Contributor
I use the API kit for testing as well. I run GFO and I notice if I let my GFO go longer than I should it gets up to 0.25pm. I would test your top off water and your next water for a water change and see what your phosphate is at. See if your putting phosphate in or not.
 
saltkreep88

saltkreep88

Buy a hanna 736 will be one of the best things you ever buy for your tank. The api is not actuate enough for reef tanks. If it is leaning towards .25 your phos is way to high. Do you have a Gfo reactor ?
 
Trio91

Trio91

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njtiger24 aquariums said:
I use the API kit for testing as well. I run GFO and I notice if I let my GFO go longer than I should it gets up to 0.25pm. I would test your top off water and your next water for a water change and see what your phosphate is at. See if your putting phosphate in or not.
Click to expand...
Cool
 
Trio91

Trio91

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saltkreep88 said:
Buy a hanna 736 will be one of the best things you ever buy for your tank. The api is not actuate enough for reef tanks. If it is leaning towards .25 your phos is way to high. Do you have a Gfo reactor ?
Click to expand...
I have a reactor but I now have an AIO system so I do not have room, I just ordered some phosguard and I am going to just put the sack in back and see what happens
 
Trio91

Trio91

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OK it comes in a bag if I remember

Seachem - PhosGuard

1 full liter does 300 gal....I have to check, I think I ordered the 250ml bag....so even half of that should be enough if I'm right
 
Trio91

Trio91

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so here is what i ordered for my RODI unit...they should come in by this week

2x 1 MICRON PREMIUM ROSAVE.Z SEDIMENT FILTER
1x BRS UNIVERSAL CARBON BLOCK FILTER - 1 MICRON
CATALYTIC ACTIVATED CARBON FOR CHLORAMINES REMOVAL ONE CARTRIDGE REFILL

i also have DI resin which i will replace once everything else comes in

I also have since added phosguard....it's been in for a few days now so i will test by tomorrow to see where i stand

would it be overkill to dose NoPox as well? should i remove the phosguard? i have the stuff lying around and would like to get rid of it somehow....
 
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