What are the main benefits of having a sump? Right now I have a 65g FOWLR tank. I have an Eheium 2028 cannister filter and the water seems to be in good condition. Are there any other benefits of having a sump besides being able to hide everything in the sump and also increasing the gallons in the system?
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Benefits of a sump?
- Thread starter lennyd4
- Start date
marc levinson has a website that pretty much covers the entire gamut of sumps.
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html
I've copied/pasted below what he wrote:
Increased total water volume - This dilutes your water of accumulating pollutants, and helps avoid issues that occur quickly in sumpless tanks.
Skims the surface - No more surface scum, just crystal clear water.
Lowers temperature - I've observed a 2° F drop after the sump is installed.
Hides equipment - Heaters, protein skimmers, monitoring probes, grounding probes and more can be moved to the sump & out of the display tank.
Consistent water level - The display tank will maintain the same water level all the times; evaporation occurs in the sump over time (see auto top-off).
Safe place to pour in additives - Adding chemicals or new (Reverse Osmosis De-Ionized) water in the sump allows it to mix before entering the display tank.
Increased circulation - The return water from the sump is yet another way to move water in your tank. You can point the return outlet(s) in different directions to create flow, instead of putting more powerheads in your display tank! Increased oxygenation - As water drains into your sump, air mixes in the water, allowing beneficial gas exchange, releasing CO[SUB]2[/SUB] and adding fresh O[SUB]2[/SUB].
Optional Features:
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html
I've copied/pasted below what he wrote:
Increased total water volume - This dilutes your water of accumulating pollutants, and helps avoid issues that occur quickly in sumpless tanks.
Skims the surface - No more surface scum, just crystal clear water.
Lowers temperature - I've observed a 2° F drop after the sump is installed.
Hides equipment - Heaters, protein skimmers, monitoring probes, grounding probes and more can be moved to the sump & out of the display tank.
Consistent water level - The display tank will maintain the same water level all the times; evaporation occurs in the sump over time (see auto top-off).
Safe place to pour in additives - Adding chemicals or new (Reverse Osmosis De-Ionized) water in the sump allows it to mix before entering the display tank.
Increased circulation - The return water from the sump is yet another way to move water in your tank. You can point the return outlet(s) in different directions to create flow, instead of putting more powerheads in your display tank! Increased oxygenation - As water drains into your sump, air mixes in the water, allowing beneficial gas exchange, releasing CO[SUB]2[/SUB] and adding fresh O[SUB]2[/SUB].
Optional Features:
- Automatic top-off device - Install an automatic float switch to add new water, as needed, from a nearby holding tank to keep your system filled up.
- Refugium - This lighted area can grow macro algae, which takes up nitrates from your water. The plants also add oxygen, and help maintain pH levels when the display's lights are off. This predator-free zone will allow good growth of copepods, ampipods and other microfauna that eventually end up in the display tank as food for your inhabitants.
Lenny, a FOWLR can get away with much “dirtier” water then a reef tank. A canister filter is not the best approach for a reef tank….it is what is commonly referred to as a nitrate factory. It traps detritus, which then starts to spew nitrates into the water as the detritus decomposes. If you are interested in starting a reef tank, cleaner water is required.
As you mentioned, a sump increases your total water volume as well as allowing you to put all the ancillary equipment there. For a reef, this includes not only heaters, but also protein skimmers, carbon and phosban (gfo) reactors, as well as any other “additives” reactors you wish to add (such as a calcium reactor). It also allows for the addition of a refugium for the biological filtration, with the use of deep sand beds, algae (cheato), etc.
If you didn't have a sump (and a fairly large tank), much of what was explained above would have to be HOB (hang on the back), where I feel is a bit unsightly. I mentioned larger tanks because they do make all-in-one small tanks that have much of the mentioned equipment hidden in a compartment in the back of the tank.
As you mentioned, a sump increases your total water volume as well as allowing you to put all the ancillary equipment there. For a reef, this includes not only heaters, but also protein skimmers, carbon and phosban (gfo) reactors, as well as any other “additives” reactors you wish to add (such as a calcium reactor). It also allows for the addition of a refugium for the biological filtration, with the use of deep sand beds, algae (cheato), etc.
If you didn't have a sump (and a fairly large tank), much of what was explained above would have to be HOB (hang on the back), where I feel is a bit unsightly. I mentioned larger tanks because they do make all-in-one small tanks that have much of the mentioned equipment hidden in a compartment in the back of the tank.
also water changes from the sump is great. a lot a wastes tend to settle in the sump. you can put a filter sock on the drain while cleaning the tank it catches the mess. drain the sump fill it and water has a chance to mix with your tank water rather than dumping it directly into display. as mentioned above with dosing additives.
Well the reason I posted this is because I am obviously interested in maybe converting. If I was able to fit a 20g under my stand. But my tank is not drilled so I would need to make an overflow also I know I would buy a reef octopus skimmer. As far as the return goes..what type of pump is used and is tubing used or just ofc? Im sure there is a hundred other things I can't think of. Also the line from the tank to sump..is that just gravity doing its job or is there another pump needed in the overflow?
Are you interested in a major project or a semi-major project. I think that most folks here swear by the Glass-Holes kits that they use to drill the tank . That is pretty major. You can add an overflow without that and without drilling the tank but they have a greater chance of failure. There are overflow kits that you can buy and then plumb around that basically hang on the back.
I have had sumpless tanks, all in one tanks, and my current tank with sump. I would never buy a new tank without a sump. Hawkeye gave you most of the reasons. You can use a 20G tank under it would surely work and you can find several different designs using basic glass and silicon to create bubble traps and separate chambers for return pump, fuge and skimmer. Also gravity is mostly at work with surface skimmer, but I think some of the hang on overflows have a small pump to keep siphon going.
I have had sumpless tanks, all in one tanks, and my current tank with sump. I would never buy a new tank without a sump. Hawkeye gave you most of the reasons. You can use a 20G tank under it would surely work and you can find several different designs using basic glass and silicon to create bubble traps and separate chambers for return pump, fuge and skimmer. Also gravity is mostly at work with surface skimmer, but I think some of the hang on overflows have a small pump to keep siphon going.