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cotton substance on dorsal of my koran angel

cotton substance on dorsal of my koran angel.

I noticed one small cottony type substance on my angel after i got home from buying the fishy. from one small spot now has about 3. as mentioned in a previous post. I had an outbreak of ICK in the DT but all fish have been in the QT tank for two weeks under copperamine and thats where it still shows and as mentioned increased from one to three spots along the dorsal.

I will take a picture as best as possible and post for better assistance. again thanks for any information!!!!
 
koranangel.jpg
the fungi/virus is on the very top middle portion

i am currently feeding it mysis, brine shrimp, ocean nutrient pellet with garlic, and i also bought vitachem to help as well.

phil as you can see from the picture looking at information or diagnosis for lymph. they don't look like the same
 
It looks like a fungus of some sort but the picture is not very clear. It could very well be bacteria/parasitic. Without a clearer picture it's hard to tell you what type of medicine to administer.
 
I rather not disclose where i bought the fish since it was from a private seller and it could have been a freak accident. the fungi/virus/parasite was not that big. i did not have any other fish with that previously. i did have an outbreak of ich but i know for a fact it's not ich.

i think i achieved my ich outbreak by buying from rt 46 "the fish tank". bad mistake.

i am in the midst of waiting a month before buying any more fish.

just a little question though. are INVERTS safe from ich? i have a emerald crab, hermits, snails, cleaner shrimp, chocolate chip star and want to make sure they are safe from the outbreak?
 
I don't think the private seller is to blame either. That fish could have had that problem for a long time and the stress of moving, QTing, etc. is just making appear now.

Don't blame the pet stores for ich. Ich is pretty much unavoidable from their perspective unless you QT and treat everything. Dr. Jim does this but he has to double prices and I doubt he even breaks even. Not to mention the 4 weeks he has to watch the livestock. You can have a totally ich free environment but you have to be very diligent. QT all, dip, treat, etc.

Inverts are not carriers of ich so they are fine. Run tank fallow for minimum of 4 weeks. Increase temps to mid 80s if possible to accelerate the life cycle of Ich. Remember, temp does not kill ich, just speeds up the time they go from cyst to free swimming, etc.

Were you able to take a better picture? Have you identified the problem yet? Freshwater bath help any? You try a Formalin or Methylene Blue Dip? Maybe Lugol's?
 
the main reason i asked where you got it is because maybe the origional owner had come across this before and can maybe tell you how he addressed the issue
 
the fish tank location is notorious for the bad water parameters and such. i have stopped going there since finding more bad reviews. they have multiple dead fish everywhere. i've talked to previous workers from there and they've said the same. so ultimately can be said about the establishment.

i haven't done it yet. i have a new born and quite busy but still watching them at the same time. i will try freshwater dip and then try the formalin and then try others.
 
i just reread what your were saying, calaxa. but i have gone to two other stores i am a fan of. an the ich is almost never heard of. reef encounter/absolutely fish.

if they can do it so can the fish tank. customer satisfaction is aim.
so you can blame the store, somewhat if it was caused by them.

I didn't have ich before adding their fish. which at the time did not know as much with QT/hospital tanks and such. so i guess knowledge is power on that note.
 
You usually will never see a LFS have a case of ich. Why is that? Volume and dilution. Their systems are all plumbed together. They move livestock constantly. They have barebottom tanks usually with no live rock or sand where the cysts can lie dormant.

I added several fish recently without QT. None had signs of ich nor even showed it afterwards. The ich magnets (tangs) got them a month later. In the wild, fish get ich all the time but it's not fatal to them. It only becomes fatal in a small, closed system like a home aquarium where the ich can multiply and infect host after host, time and again. My hippo got it first (big surprise LOL). QT immediately, went away, then yellow tang got it real hard (QT all at this point). Went away. Hippo got it again while in QT, (much worse than first time).

I believe you that a certain store might be really bad in terms of quality of livestock, but it is really hard for any pet store to have ich free environment unless they QT everything or captive breed everything. Now where did my ich come from? Well it is from one of the sponsers here (and a reputable source) but again, I do not blame them. Was my own fault for not being diligent (especially since I do have the QT ready). Was just too lazy because I wanted to introduce 2 dwarf angels and get them to co-exist (well at least that worked). Everyone still looks good in QT (and if I hadn't rushed them out and had a reoccurrence, I could've had them back in DT by now). I took this time to QT everyone for all my tanks so that I know going forward, my water is completely ich free.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Most of our LFSs run their water at 1.019. The lower salinity is easier on the fish (less stress) and harder on ich.

Your fish can react to stressors (adding fish) by becoming symptomatic when they weren't before the addition. It may or may not have been the addition that introduced the ich but just the stress of adding them caused an outbreak. Having asymptomatic fish doesn't mean you don't have ich in your system already. I've introduced a TREATED tang into a display and had the tangs break out again a week or two later.

If you raise the temps to mid-80s (no corals) then I might consider a 4w fallow, but I'd prefer 6 in that case and 8 if you can't raise the temperature.

On the other hand if you've got fish that are trying to recover from ich then you would want to have the temps a bit lower so that the ich isn't cycling so fast.

How's that fungus doing?
 
right now i noticed the fungus get lighter in color almost like it's falling off with no signs of moving elsewhere. so i figured that as a good sign. i keep my temp at 78-80 in all my tanks i raised my qt tank to 81-82.

the longnose btrfly with ich wasn't eating so it eventually died.

i see most butterflies due to off season during transfer are ich prone so staying away from them for now.

i'll let them die off with hopes of curing the fungi and just wait til a better time to retrieve more fish. right now i'm fine with all rock and inverts! ha

fun watching the inverts moving and live rock gaining some color. i think it'll be a better learning curve for me to start with just water parameters and all my equipment ready to handle any load that i so chose.
 
it looked like it was already starting to fall off but once i bought the cleaner shrimp and all i had in the tank was the angel and cleaner shrimp. the fungus was gone and no sign of either ick or fungus on him.
 
Well it must have been bacteria, nor fungal if cleaner shrimp took care of it. Ich will return as it drops off the fish and falls into their cyst phase. I thought you were doing the QT/fallow thing for your ich problem.
 
the ich was never apparent on the koran angel just some of my other fish. the koran has been in the qt for 2 weeks. only have a nemo (oscellaris) and the koran left and i am deciding not to buy new fish until later next year due to the weather. i just put them back into the DT. cleaner shrimp have been known to take some ich of fish. so i tried and no longer visible. nothing on the clown so just watching carefully for any changes.
 
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