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diy stand plans

Has anyone bought any of the diy stand plans that can be found online>? Are they worth it? DO they lay out step by step info? Im not extremley handy and most of the free diy plans i have found seem like they are for people with a good woodworking knowledge and background that I dont have.
 
Just ask and I will help you. I helped another NJ reefer that was not handy and he just completed his stand. There are many guys here that can help you out. Check out my build thread. I tried to post as many pictures as possible. don't waste your money buying the plans.
 
Thanks...

First few questions are.

What tools should I have to compete the project
What can I expect to spend on materials for a 75gal stand and hood
what type of wood is best to use?

Thanks for any tips....
 
Hmmm....... I can list tools that are good to have but I could probably forget something.

Drill, Electric Screw driver, Saw (Electric Prefered),
Those tools will get your basic stand but if you want it to look pretty you may want other tools.

I spent about $300 on a stand for a 240 Gallon and I used a lot of good stuff. I would guess you may do it for about $150-200?

There are many opinions on the wood to use but I think if you build it correctly and get STRAIGHT 2/4 you can use anything for the structure. As far as the outside it all depends on the look you are shooting for.

What town are you in? I have tons of tools.
 

mikem

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I agree with Sam. The whole cost depends on whether you want to stain it or paint it.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
RC's DIY forum has one that's been replicated several times. Nice looking stand. You could try there.
 
The Garf Plan uses a piece of 3/4 plywood for the top where the tank rests yet most other stands i have seen sit on rails is there advantages to each method? With the plywood they recomend 3/4" pywood would it be safer to go thicker and what about drilling holes in plywood is that safe?>
 
i used 3/4 and like it. It works great for a 240. I like the idea of the plywood just incase you are off a little somewere you tank will still be ok.
 
So I guess if you used 3/4 on a 240 it should be more then enough. But what about driling a hole in top plywood for overflow?
 
So you just have to measure twice and cut once. I used a router so I cut put a smooth hole in there but you can do anything as long as you leave the lip for it to sit on.
 
I have a nice set of detailed plans that I bought off of the internet I have them on my computer at work. The plans can be stretched to fit any tank size. I also have plans that I developed for my old 50g as well as plans I made for my 120g wall unit. PM me if you're interested. As far as tools go, a chop saw, drill, circular saw or better yet a table saw, and a router. Also have on hand a bunch of clamps. Clamps are almost as important as any of the cutting tools.
 

mikem

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I think what he's asking is if the 3/4 is still strong enough with the holes drilled in them? If so, yes. Most of the weight of the tanks are on the perimeter.
 
mikem said:
I think what he's asking is if the 3/4 is still strong enough with the holes drilled in them? If so, yes. Most of the weight of the tanks are on the perimeter.

Oh yea. Missed that one. Mike is right. The hold does not hurt the integrity of the board.
 
I looked for 2x4's at home depot today... It looks like the only kind of2x4 are douglas fir green OR kiln Dried douglas fir? WHich one is the best or shoud i checkout lowes?
 
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