Help! Red Slime, feathery, fast multiplying algae!

[old salty]

I need answers! 4 month old 29 gallon FOWLR (4 chromis), PH 8.4, Nitrates 0, Nitrites 0, Ammonia 0, Phosphates 0. Why do I have this red slime, feathery, fast multiplying algae? I do weekly water changes with R/O water and a monthly big water change. Changed out light to a 9360k, rearranged my waterflow, even bought some PURA phoslock (since I read that a zero phosphate reading doesn't mean that there are no phosphates), and I replaced my regular powerfilter pad with the PURA filter pad that has PURA complete inbedded in it. I just did a vacuum and a water change yesterday - and within hours this stuff is not only spreading its growing these feathery tentacles faster then I have ever seen anything grow before in my life. Its now starting to cover my beautiful live rock. HOW DO I KILL THIS STUFF???? I am so frustrated right now...I want to get a couple of more fish but don't want to until this stuff clears. Oh yea, brown algae grew in the beginning for about a month, then the tank was spotless, then about a week later the red stuff started to grow and has not stopped for 3 months.


PLEASE HELP ME - - - - - -
IM TIRED OF SPENDING MONEY ON PRODUCTS TO KILL IT - - - -
I WANT TO BUY SOME DAMN FISH - - - - - - - - -

 

[redfishbluefish]

Sounds like it might be cyano bacteria? Without seeing it, just guessing.

For starters, reduce you light period. Cyano is a photosynthesizing bacteria, so reducing the light period could help. Also increase flow by directing powerheads where you are having an outbreak. And, although your numbers look good, increase your water changes.

 

[calaxa]

It definitely sounds like cyano. It's caused by low flow and excess nutrients. Increase flow, reduce feedings, reduce lighting, increase water changes, and siphon this stuff out. If you want quick results, ultra life red slime remover does work but not recommended. I gave up and did use it after fighting it for 3 months.

 

[qwik]

I would cut back on feedings . Can you list your equiptment,protien skimmer,phos reactor,fuge?? Do you have any type of biological filtration besides live rock ? All the water changes and filter material removal/replacement might of killed off a good percent of your healthy bacteria . I would also hold back on adding fish until this is under control . And like redfishbluefish said reduce light period . You might also want to get your water tested with another kit to make sure of numbers .

 

[Hawkeye]

do you have sand in this tank and if so - please list the clean up crew.

It wouldn't hurt to siphon out the cyano.

I agree with all the previous posts - without knowing your tank equipment - it's a sure bet you don't have enough flow.

 

[cmsurfr22]

i had a bad case of the cyano one time.

is this what it looks like?

here is a thread of my experience and what i did to correct the problem. let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=1669.0

 

[calaxa]

Ouch.....that was pretty bad. Can even see it on the back walls/

 

[cmsurfr22]

Ouch.....that was pretty bad. Can even see it on the back walls/

yeah it was all over the place, walls, rock and sand. but 72 hours after using chemi clean and my skimmer going nuts for 24 hours it was completely gone and my tank looked great! ;D

 

[calaxa]

Yeah I went the same route. I tried, siphoning, increasing CUC, increasing flow, reducing lights, etc.

Finally caved, and added the chemical. Skimmer went nuts....water turned yellow but 48 hrs later, no cyano.

 

[old salty]

Well, I have had the lights turned off for about 24 + hours and I wish my tank looked this clean all the time. There are some stragglers but the tank looks great! Now, when I turn my light on I guess it will all grow back, right? I'm going to keep them out for a few more days. Any further suggestions? Is it safe to say when the algae is gone its DEAD? GONE FOREVER? NEVER TO BE SEEN AGAIN? Or is it just hanging out in its invisible form?

Thanks for the help!

 

[calaxa]

Well cyano will come back unless you figure out what the source of problem was. Usually low flow and excess nutrients. Figure out why you have/had those and that will be the way to remove it for good.

 

[cmsurfr22]

Well cyano will come back unless you figure out what the source of problem was. Usually low flow and excess nutrients. Figure out why you have/had those and that will be the way to remove it for good.

agreed. before i used chemiclean i increased my flow and added a phosban reactor.

 

[old salty]

Well, I have 4 small chromis that get fed 2 times per day, morning and night. A mix of flakes and freeze dried shrimp - a very small amount. I do weekly water changes plus a main water change once per month with R/O water which includes vacuuming the substrate. I have a HOB power filter and 2 Hydor #1 wave makers. From what I can tell there is plenty of water movement. I also have about 10 lbs of live rock, 4 turbo snails, and 5 hermit crabs, and a small clam somewhere in the tank (piggybacker from a live rock). What I am basically saying is, my BIO-LOAD is small for this 29G tank. There is no excess of waste or organics. All tests come back great! This is what frustrates the heck out of me. Any further advice....I'll listen to any suggestions!!!!

Thanks!

 

[calaxa]

4 chromis being fed 2x/day? Lucky chromis but that is what is fueling your cyano. The chromis eat like there is no tomorrow. Very aggressive eaters but I would cut that back to one a day or one every other day. The food might be adding some phosphates to your system, especially the flake. The bioload is small. However, you're adding to the load by probably feeding too much. The test results come back great because the cyano is making use of all excess. Even if you cut it back now, that cyano is hard to get rid of. Siphon as much as possible and avoid the chemical solution (though you see the 2 people who are giving you advice actually caved and did it themselves). Direct the flow to the problem areas and add additional flow if possible.

 

[qwik]

You might want to add a few more hermits and some sandsifting snails to that clean up crew and put those chromis on a diet . The more detrious eaters the better ,they can give a little relief if you overfeed .
Reading your post I come up with about 10 lbs live rock and a hob filter.Is this your filtration? If so I would say you need some more . A skimmer would go a long way in helping fight that cyano, a phosban reactor would also be good . Adding more already cured liverock is another suggestion . How deep is the sandbed ,If its deep and you keep sturring it when you do water changes your fueling the fire. Listing all your equiptment will let others chime in and post some ideas/help.

 

[old salty]

Ok, I will spread out the feedings. Yes, that's my filtration HOB and Live rock. It's a long story - My 1st floor is an open floor plan - all rooms combine. Noise is a big factor and I want close to a silent tank as I can. I had a skimmer, the continual humming and air suction noise drove me NUTS and my wife Crazy. We couldn't eat dinner or watch tv without the NOISE. I made modifications to try and eliminate noise - NOTHING worked. I had to eliminate it. BUT BUT BUT BUT, I do several water changes a month to eliminate the bad stuff. I did add PURA PHOS LOCK to my HOB + a PURA filtration pad with PURA COMPLETE in-bedded in it. By the way, how long would those two chemical filtration products take to eliminate phosphate in a tank testing zero phosphates and nitrates?. Also I do have crushed coral as my substrate (I am not replacing it and I would say its not that deep). Are you saying I should not be vacuuming the substrate once a month?

Just an update - - - Still no light on (just room/window light), red slime 98% GONE. I pray it stays this way. Maybe ill just convert to a deep sea tank, where only plankton live. That would be fun!

I think I am also going to the Hidden Reef today to see what kind of cured/live rock they have. Should I buy that good bacteria supplement to make sure I have enough good bacteria in there?

 

[old salty]

Oh yeah, How long should my lights be on? I do not have any corals! But I do have some feathery growths on my live rock that I assume need light. And when this red slime clears, I will be adding probably 2 clowns and an anemone (need light). Should I just let the natural day/room light enter the tank during the day and then turn the lights on in the evening when it gets dark?

 

[calaxa]

You already have enough good bacteria. No need to waste money on buying that stuff. Fish will like you more if you maintain 12 hrs light, 12 hrs darkness a la their natural reef habitat but it is unnecessary. However, as you stated, the anemone will need the light. Twelve hours is preferred otherwise you will need supplemental feedings to the nem. If the clowns host in it, they will probably not let you feed the anemone and will take care of it for you. In a crushed coral tank, I would vacuum it like you are doing. I would add more live rock (cure before adding) like you intend to do. The chemicals are probably removing any free phosphates already...it's just that your cyano and other algae is probably consuming it just as fast if not faster. Since you have the luxury of going without lights right now.....leave lights off until all cyano is gone and then one extra day or two for good measure. Change your feeding regimen and hopefully the cyano won't come back.

 

[Hawkeye]

a word of caution on adding the anemone - there is always the possibility of the critter moving to one of your intakes (the hob filter, or one of the 2 hydors). In a 29 gallon tank - one false step and you've got shredded anemone.

 

[calaxa]

Yes.....I had a peach colored BTA or LTA....don't remember. Got his foot stuck in a koralia 1. Got him out and he hung on for about a week before he died completely.