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How to store clean water with Cati-Ani unit...?
- Thread starter malulu
- Start date
I thought stcreef had the right idea but I didn't understand the float issue having never used one. Seeing the pictures, I now understand the original issue and the subsequent solution. I need to buy the recommended float to learn more. Thanks for the education.
Bruce
Bruce
There shouldn't be anything inside the valve except the plastic plunger and a seal. Replace the nut and bolt with a plastic set, use a plastic float arm from a toilet set and a plastic ball. Looks like the pivot pin is stainless as well, but being that small it shouldn't be an issue. Besides, thats the stress point, and I would rather it be metal than plastic since it's connecting to the water mains.
malulu
NJRC Member
Rich,
McMaster have them... but they seem expensive.
goto http://www.mcmaster.com/ type in "float valve" as search...
McMaster have them... but they seem expensive.
goto http://www.mcmaster.com/ type in "float valve" as search...
The name here is Tom.
Been out of the reef game for almost ten years...kids, a move...etc....
Last few weeks been putting together a 120, just finished a custom oak stand for it tonite. Canopy is next on the list. Trying to do as much DIY as possible on this one. No fun in just buying things.
Been out of the reef game for almost ten years...kids, a move...etc....
Last few weeks been putting together a 120, just finished a custom oak stand for it tonite. Canopy is next on the list. Trying to do as much DIY as possible on this one. No fun in just buying things.
malulu
NJRC Member
Tom (stcreef),
great to have you back in the reef game, i am sure we all be benefit from your wisdom...
if you need anything, just shout... i will (or we will) do our best to help...
really appreciated for your inputs, great fun...
agreed on DIY stuff, can you help to make some DYI-PVC-Floating-Switch for us then??
;D
am kidding... cheers!
great to have you back in the reef game, i am sure we all be benefit from your wisdom...
if you need anything, just shout... i will (or we will) do our best to help...
really appreciated for your inputs, great fun...
agreed on DIY stuff, can you help to make some DYI-PVC-Floating-Switch for us then??
;D
am kidding... cheers!
malulu
NJRC Member
my main water line is 3/8", also the Cati-Ani.
i was looking at the 3/8 model, cause the Cati-Ani use that size... it is ~$140.
I guess i could order the 3/4" then get an adapter to convert the size?
if yes, I am going to order this:
5741K26 - PVC Float Valve Tank-Wall Mount, 3/4" NPT Male, 34 GPM Flow Rate ($34)
anyone need to piggy back - to save shipping fee?
thx
i was looking at the 3/8 model, cause the Cati-Ani use that size... it is ~$140.
I guess i could order the 3/4" then get an adapter to convert the size?
if yes, I am going to order this:
5741K26 - PVC Float Valve Tank-Wall Mount, 3/4" NPT Male, 34 GPM Flow Rate ($34)
anyone need to piggy back - to save shipping fee?
thx
stcreef said:
malulu
NJRC Member
or this? need to replace the rod like you said... (for ~$20)
http://www.thevalveshop.com/menu/manual/kerick/float.html
thx
http://www.thevalveshop.com/menu/manual/kerick/float.html
thx
malulu
NJRC Member
Tom,
I can't find the NJ location link in either website? (MCMaster nor TheValveShop)?
Also, they did not say low flow, is how low...
thx
Bruce,
do you think this low flow would be ok for the Cati-Ani? I remembered you said something about 350g per day flow rate something...?
I can't find the NJ location link in either website? (MCMaster nor TheValveShop)?
Also, they did not say low flow, is how low...
thx
stcreef said:
Bruce,
do you think this low flow would be ok for the Cati-Ani? I remembered you said something about 350g per day flow rate something...?
malulu
NJRC Member
got the flow rate chart:
[edit]
the Cati-Ani can produce 16g per Hour, that would be 0.26g per mintue...
the 3.8" on the chart (blue) would be more than enough...
ok, i will order this tomorrow... second one on the list. $20 (no ball, no rod)
3/8" Kerick Heavy Duty PVC Float Valve, .187 Low Flow Orifice, Stainless Steel Hardware, Bulkhead Tank Connection.
[edit]
the Cati-Ani can produce 16g per Hour, that would be 0.26g per mintue...
the 3.8" on the chart (blue) would be more than enough...
ok, i will order this tomorrow... second one on the list. $20 (no ball, no rod)
3/8" Kerick Heavy Duty PVC Float Valve, .187 Low Flow Orifice, Stainless Steel Hardware, Bulkhead Tank Connection.
David,
To answer your last question, low flow is fine, the Kati Ani is only producing about .25 gallons per minute. You should have a valve before the Kati Ani so that the flow can be set and constant to the Kati Ani.
I would like to go back to the stainless steel issue and why it is an issue. From my understanding of your latest drawing, deionized water is never flowing through the float valve. The float valve is turning the water on and off to them be deionized. I imagine the float itself will sit in deionized water, but that can easily be plastic.
Deionized water has had 'all' the chemicals stripped through ion exchanges. Thus, it aggressively makes new ion exchanges with whatever is available including metals. However, an RO/DI produces pretty much the same result since the last step was deionization. My point is that whatever set-up worked for RO/DI should work for DI only. The second point is that like RO/DI you should add calcium and alk to the deionized water (not at the same time) before adding salt. As soon as you add either chemical, you feed the need for the water to find new ion exchanges, thus making it 'non-aggressive'. Laboratories which are trying to maintain the ultra-pure nature of deionized water for their experiments have protocols on the piping and storage they must use (expensive) to prevent the water from grabbing ions from such.
Bruce
To answer your last question, low flow is fine, the Kati Ani is only producing about .25 gallons per minute. You should have a valve before the Kati Ani so that the flow can be set and constant to the Kati Ani.
I would like to go back to the stainless steel issue and why it is an issue. From my understanding of your latest drawing, deionized water is never flowing through the float valve. The float valve is turning the water on and off to them be deionized. I imagine the float itself will sit in deionized water, but that can easily be plastic.
Deionized water has had 'all' the chemicals stripped through ion exchanges. Thus, it aggressively makes new ion exchanges with whatever is available including metals. However, an RO/DI produces pretty much the same result since the last step was deionization. My point is that whatever set-up worked for RO/DI should work for DI only. The second point is that like RO/DI you should add calcium and alk to the deionized water (not at the same time) before adding salt. As soon as you add either chemical, you feed the need for the water to find new ion exchanges, thus making it 'non-aggressive'. Laboratories which are trying to maintain the ultra-pure nature of deionized water for their experiments have protocols on the piping and storage they must use (expensive) to prevent the water from grabbing ions from such.
Bruce
malulu
NJRC Member
Bruce,
thanks for the explaination.
i do have one more question, due to physical space constrain with my setup, can i place the Cati-Ani INSIDE the 55g barrel? it also simplify the pipe that go out and go back in...etc. ofcourse, the Cati-Ani will have to be raised above the water line...
question for all,
- i am going to take pics for step by step setup on this issue, should i continue on with this thread or start a new thread?
- i will also make a NEW summary thread for the final plan, so other can easily reference to this Cati-Ani setup (will have link/reference back to this one for people that need more details)
thx
thanks for the explaination.
i do have one more question, due to physical space constrain with my setup, can i place the Cati-Ani INSIDE the 55g barrel? it also simplify the pipe that go out and go back in...etc. ofcourse, the Cati-Ani will have to be raised above the water line...
question for all,
- i am going to take pics for step by step setup on this issue, should i continue on with this thread or start a new thread?
- i will also make a NEW summary thread for the final plan, so other can easily reference to this Cati-Ani setup (will have link/reference back to this one for people that need more details)
thx
JohnS_323 said:
I agree.
BTW is anyone collecting these cool diagrams that David/John/Rich/and I forget who else has made. We can collect them and Release a DIY book ....