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Jebao DC Pump Advice

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
The next energy savings I'm considering for my tank is to switch out the MAG 9.5 return pump I've used since 2008 for a Jebao DC pump. I don't know squat about these pumps and would appreciate any comment. Not sure if I should go for the 6000 or 12000 pump. Also, it looks like a straight connection off the top of the pump.


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I'd like to hook this directly to the 3/4 rigid PVC that's already there....is that possible?


Tank info...90 gallon DT with 40B sump directly below the DT (ca 4.5 foot head).


Thanks
 
Paul I was considering the DC pumps for the closed loop on my new system but started hearing about the inlet/outlets cracking from the vibration associated with rigged pvc plumbing. I spoke with a distributor of the pumps and he confirmed that they have been seeing issues with cracking. Now I wanted to use mine in an external setup so I quickly changed coursed because I could take a chance with having one break and then drain 360g on my floors....that would be an epic fail.
 
I have the dc9000 model on my 150 for almost 8 months now. No problems, no cracks, completely silent. I love it. I believe I have mine set up for 3/4" flex PVC too.
 
I have the DC-9000. I suspect that a lot of the cracking issues are coming from the fact that some, if not all, of these pumps are BSP (International standard) threaded. I've read a few people, on various forums, say theirs are NPT (Us standard) but I'd take that with a grain of salt. Mine is BSP, which means it will screw down a couple of turns with US fittings and then seizes as the specs are just close enough to get the fitting on it and allow a twist. I'm betting many people are just pulling out the wrench and putting some torque on 'em to get them to screw down the rest of the way and cracking them in the process. To properly fit one of these you need a BSP female adapter and it's EXTREMELY hard to find US fitting suppliers that sell BSP threaded fittings. Luckily, I found one (probably the only) and my adapter will be here in a week or so. I'm about to propose a group buy just for fittings that mount properly to these babies. lol. Having said that, they're AWESOME pumps, mine is very quiet at 4/6 strength. The whine gets perceptible at the 5 and 6/6 setting 2 feet away from my pump. I have a 90 gallon tank as well.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Steve, I wonder if using spa-flex eliminates this issue??? I also have spa-flex that I could easily replace a portion of the rigid with the flex pipe.

And Dan, I'm on Fish-Street, and there is no 9000.....have 6000 and then 12000.
 
Steve,
Are you using the provided adapter or did you add your own fitting? Also, what's the size of your output? Is it 1 1/4" or 1.5"?
 
I was using an RO DC 10500 (forerunner to the 12000) for over a year on my system, replacing two Mag 9's. If I remember correctly there wasn't much price difference between the two pumps, and with the speed control I would probably go with the larger pump, and use the speed control to adjust the flow. I think this would give you some flexibility if you wanted to add a manifold to drive other equipment, i.e. BP/GFO/GAC reactor's, etc., eliminating more of the AC pumps.
 

iTzJu

Officer Emeritus
NJRC Member
I was running the DC6000 on my system for awhile till I broke it down and while it was running, i ran into no issues. the pump was dead silent. I connected it to manifold to also run two media reactors for GFO and Carbon. for the price, it really is a value.
 
I have the DC-9000. I suspect that a lot of the cracking issues are coming from the fact that some, if not all, of these pumps are BSP (International standard) threaded. I've read a few people, on various forums, say theirs are NPT (Us standard) but I'd take that with a grain of salt. Mine is BSP, which means it will screw down a couple of turns with US fittings and then seizes as the specs are just close enough to get the fitting on it and allow a twist. I'm betting many people are just pulling out the wrench and putting some torque on 'em to get them to screw down the rest of the way and cracking them in the process. To properly fit one of these you need a BSP female adapter and it's EXTREMELY hard to find US fitting suppliers that sell BSP threaded fittings. Luckily, I found one (probably the only) and my adapter will be here in a week or so. I'm about to propose a group buy just for fittings that mount properly to these babies. lol. Having said that, they're AWESOME pumps, mine is very quiet at 4/6 strength. The whine gets perceptible at the 5 and 6/6 setting 2 feet away from my pump. I have a 90 gallon tank as well.

Thanks Cliff very good info.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I just got a Waveline DC-6000 for my new system and it's hooked up to a manifold. It's dead silent and replaced a mag12 that I was originally intending to use. My discharge connection on my pump is 1", and I used braided tubing to connect to the manifold. This should prevent any cracking since there is plenty of flex in that tubing.

I also have about 4-5' head as my sump is in the stand under my tank. My manifold has 4 outlets: 3/4" hose to UV filter, 3/4" hose (normally closed) for water changes, 1/2" tube to GFO, 1/2" tube to Carbon. With all of these connections, I don't think I have enough flow from this pump and I wish I had went with the DC 10000 or 12000 instead. The reason being, I don't get enough flow to my UV filter (only about 200 GPH) while still having a decent flow to the returns and dialing in the flow to the reactors.

That said, if you intend to just use it as a return pump and not run a manifold, I would say the DC-6000 is plenty of flow. It would even be fine if you decided to feed carbon/gfo reactors off of it too. But any more than that and I would suggest going bigger.

Paul, if you end up using one of these, I would suggest adding a section of either braided or black poly tubing from the pump to your rigid PVC. The pump itself should come with one screw on barb fitting, so all you would need is 1 more to connect to your rigid PVC and add a foot or two of tubing in between and you are good to go. Just make sure you get plastic clamps so you don't have to worry about rust.
 
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