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Plumbing Newb Questions

I am planning to put together a low tech "water change system", and wanted to get some input because I am a plumbing newb.

I am planning to put staging water in a rubermaid tote, and then have a release valve (probably ball valve) which will allow gravity to take the water down to my "mixing tote".

My question is around parts and sizes.

3/4" Bulkhead for tote hole? Silcone to prevent leaks?
3/4" Ball Valve?
3/4" barbed connector?
vinyl tubing.

Can I connect the ball valve directly to the bulkhead? or do i need some separation?

Any other ideas that are probably much better than mine? Missing parts?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
If you are attempting to get the valve as close to the bucket as possible, here’s how I suggest you do it:

First off, I’d use glue-up bulkheads and valves (versus threaded ones).

Install the bulkhead with the threaded part facing into the bucket. Make sure the gasket is on the outside of the bucket. Cut a two inch piece of pipe and glue that into the valve and bulkhead. The valve will now be kissing the bulkhead and look like this:

IMG_5298.jpg
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Dave, after responding and then walking back to throw the valve and bulkhead back into the parts bucket, I was playing with the valve and turning it back a forth. One concern I have is that it takes a fair amount of torque to turn that valve. If you are mounting this in a Rubbermaid Roughneck container, which is relatively thin pliable plastic, you might have a problem. You go to turn the valve and end up twisting a torqueing the plastic wall of the Roughneck. I’ve never mounted a bulkhead/valve on a Roughneck, so I’m just guessing here.

You might want to consider either going to a more rigid container or mounting the valve so that it could be screwed into a support and allow turning without torqueing the bucket.

IMG_5300.jpg
 
Good Point. I may also look into what other valve options I have. Just for my own knowledge, can you tell me why you feel the glue up bulkheads are better than the threaded?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
It’s not a matter of one being better then the other.  Here you wanted to get as close to the bulkhead as possible.  If you were to do this threaded, you would have to use a nipple (a short piece of pipe with threads on either end.  You would a short section of pipe between the bulkhead and valve, and therefore slightly removed for one another (maybe an 1 1/2 or so).  The example I gave you above with the glue-ups, they couldn’t get any closer…they are kissing each other.  Threaded does have the advantage in that it could be used again…glue-up does not.
 
I would stay away from those ball valves. They always locked up on me I ended up having to cut them off. IMO it's worth paying a little more for a quality bulkhead and valve. But I always buy threaded now so that I can reuse them if I change my plumbing around.
For my water mixing station I just had two barrels next to each other. One for RO water and the other for saltwater. I just used a submersible pump and some vinyl tubing to transfer water from one barrel to the other. Then I used the same pump to mix the new saltwater for 24-48 hours.
 
Jcurry@wesketch said:
IMO it's worth paying a little more for a quality bulkhead and valve.

Can you provide a link to what you mean?

I am definitely not committed to any solution, so I am truly looking for ideas.
 
Id use glue bulkheads not threaded. you get a better seal and less chance of leaks. Plus you could break a tank or crack a plastic container when you tighten your fitting to the bulkhead with the wrench. just leave about a 1 1/4 inch section of pipe between the valve and bulkhead when you use a glue fitting. Dont but them tight, This way you can always cut the fitting you glued on off of the pipe and glue your new one on or put a coupling on. This way you can reuse it.

The hayward fittings are good, their for pools, heavy duty
 
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