• Folks, if you've recently upgraded or renewed your annual club membership but it's still not active, please reach out to the BOD or a moderator. The PayPal system has a slight bug which it doesn't allow it to activate the account on it's own.

Starting Bio-Pellets

I didn't soak mine. I didn't know I was supposed to. At first the pellets had a tendency to want to float. Not anymore though. The pellets did their soaking in the reactor.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I think Daniel said something about soaking/rinsing them also helps prevent the water clouding that some people experience. I'm sure he'll chime in here on this eventually.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I thi nk Daniel said something about soaking/rinsing them also helps prevent the water clouding that some people experience. I'm sure he'll chime in here on this eventually.
Yes by soaking / rinsing them you get the crap off of them from manufacturing and soaking them will help them sink in the reactor so they do not float.
 
floating actually may not be terrible for me since the reactor is designed with a long rod that goes to the bottom. I was thinking about it - if I add pellets to the bottom that rod will crush them and then get siphoned up. If they float then no worries. Rinsing them to get any crud off sounds like a plan - but they look clean to the naked eye (these are the TLF brand).
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Sinking them will not let them clump up at the top of the reactor. If they get clump at the top of your reactor then you will not get the full effect of the pellets. Also they will not tumble.
 
Sinking them will not let them clump up at the top of the reactor. If they get clump at the top of your reactor then you will not get the full effect of the pellets. Also they will not tumble.

Oh I hear ya totally - they should be on the bottom tumbling. I was just thinking initially I wouldn't mind if they weren't down there. Have you seen the octopus design - it's kinda weird with the tube all the way down to the bottom and connected to the top - which means everytime i have to top off, the whole top/rod comes off and then I have to re-jig the thing back without crushing any pellets on the bottom.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
That is because the water is feed from the top down. My Warner Marine Reactor is fed at the bottom. So it there is no rods in the middle.
warner-marine-mr-100.jpgwarner-marine-mr-100-2.jpgwarner-marine-mr-100-5.jpgwarner-marine-mr-100-4.jpg
 
i know!! if PremA sold that wm reactor - i would have bought it. But was trying to leverage the GB discount...so octopus was what i ended up with..
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
The Newer WM Reactors are even better. I hope Jon Warner sends me one as soon as they come out!:)
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I have seen many reactors that say they are for pellets and they spin the crap out of the pellets. That will not let the bacteria to stick to the pellets and do there job. So the slower the better.
 
I bought the RO BR 110 since I needed something that, with the exception of the pump, I could install outside of the sump. I will not be installing it for a couple of weeks, so I can't report on its performance. It looks like a well made device.
 
I'm happy enough with this trial period, that I just bought a real "made for bio-pellet" reactor, a Reef Octopus BM110. I'm still only running half of the recommended amount of pellets(1 1/2 cups) in a converted BRS reactor. I have two options:

a) Keep the BRS Reactor running as is, and fill the new one with all new pellets and allow it to colonize.

b) Use the existing pellets from the BRS Reactor in the new reactor and add enough new pellets to meet the recommended amount(3cups).

opinions?
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I would go for option number 2 it will help out the new pallets to seed faster.
 
This is great thread to read. I search around and not much of detail report like this.
can someone (Daniel you are the guru so far in this thread IMO) write a step on what to do with Pellets from setup point of view. i.e. 1 cup per 50 gallon, rinse and soak before run the reactor, flow rate etc.?
I am sold on this setup. I want to set it up but my skimmer is an old school deltec skimmer. the inlet of the skimmer is directly feed by the tank overflow drain line. the skimmer use a pump to circulate the water inside the skimmer. I am thinking of tapping the output line from the pellet reactor into the tank overflow drain line but afraid that the flow from the drain line stronger than the flow from the reactor, thus push the water back into the reactor chamber. there is another way is that tapping the reactor output into the circulation pump input so whatever come out of the reactor will directly drag into the skimmer via the circulation pump.
which options of plumbing do you think I should go with?
Olivier
 
From all of the articles i have ready, unless you are really in dire need of more filtration and lower levels, it is safer and better to use less than the recommended amount, if it is working for you. I have read many stories of people running at the recommended amount and causing lots of problems in their tanks, yours looked beautiful when i saw it, so i would say to stick with the 1.5 cups and just replenish when they get depleted .

HERE is what i read that gave me that opinion. only DOCUMENTED and timelined bio pellet run tank i have seen yet. The writer is also pretty knowledgeable and i have read some other things hes written, i trust his experience and review.

Just some food for thought.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Xavier613,
That was good reading. That is why I all ways say start with only a third of what you should be using and add a third more about every two - three weeks.
 
Top