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upgrade to 40B

N

NanoreefChris

As I stated in another post I am planning to eventually upgrade to a 40Breeder custom rimless. I have a few questions since I am still pretty new to the hobby and never had a sump.

Would a vortech MP20 be enough flow through the tank to not need any other powerheads in there?
What sized sump would you recommend? Im thinking a 15g.
I have no idea how to set up the return system, is this difficult? I would have a center overflow drilled and I dont want a fuge. (Id be happy to donate a coral or 2 for someone to come over and help me do this)
Would a Aqua C urchin pro (with Mag 3) fit into a 15g sump? is this a good choice?

Thats about it for now. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Chris
 
C

chuck116

Hello chris . Good luck with your upgrade. Where are you located ? What type of corals do you plan to have? I think that the flow from the mp20 would be enough plus you will also have flow from your return pump. Dont forget unless you go with an external pump you will need to put your return pump, skimmer and pump for the skimmer in your sump so 15g may not be big enough. The sump will be determind by the space you have , the bigger the sump the better, unless you want the sumpp under your stand. As for the Aqua c im not sure of the measurements so im not sure if it will fit, if you go with the under the stand sump. The plumbing is not that difficult although it can be trying, the biggest problem will be figuring your return pump size and trying to quiet your overflows. Thats just a start I hope I was able to help you and will do so whenever I can . I am new to this but am willing to help if I can. Regards Chuck P
 
R

Reefposer

I have a 40BR set up and can at least give you my set up so you know what fits/works. For a sump go with a 20 gallon high. (my converted wet-dry is about the same dimensions) It will give you plenty of room for water to flow back in to the sump when the pump gets cut. To save space in the sump I went with a hang on skimmer (Eshopps psk-100H), then there is a section of the sump with macro, heater and carbon & phosguard reactors, andthe last section is the return pump. For a return I"m running an ocean runner 2500 and it is pretty simple, lust flexible tubing with a ball valve and a u-tube return hanging on the tank rim.

DSC_0636.jpg
 
N

NanoreefChris

i really want to eventually turn my 20long into a sump.  Asided from fitting it under  stand are there any forseeable problems with using a 20 long?  Water height? (its 12 inches tall)

i dont see why you couldnt fit a 30 inch long tank under a 37 inch stand, right?

I still have no idea what some of the terms peopel are throwing at me.. ball valve? phosguard reactor?  u tube?
I would really need someone to come over and help me install the whole thing (for a frag of course). im a very visual learner and once I see how the thing works I will be fine. I am really scared of something going wrong and there being 35 gallons of water ending up on the floor.
 
V

vangvace

NanoreefChris said:
i really want to eventually turn my 20long into a sump. Asided from fitting it under stand are there any forseeable problems with using a 20 long? Water height? (its 12 inches tall)

i dont see why you couldnt fit a 30 inch long tank under a 37 inch stand, right?

I still have no idea what some of the terms peopel are throwing at me.. ball valve? phosguard reactor? u tube?
I would really need someone to come over and help me install the whole thing (for a frag of course). im a very visual learner and once I see how the thing works I will be fine. I am really scared of something going wrong and there being 35 gallons of water ending up on the floor.
Click to expand...
The biggest thing to watch out for in using a 20L as your sump is the size of the return section where the pump resides. This is where evap will be noticed and you could suck air if you have to much evaporation or too shallow a return.

Typically the largest item in your sump is your skimmer. Being able to get it in and out of your sump is something to consider in regards to sump height. Especially once the baffles are in place. Sump length really only comes into play when balancing sump footprint vs storage space.

In reefsandrotts picture the red valve is the ballvalve. It works on a similar principle to the valves in an engine carburetor. More restriction = less go. In this case we're talking how much water is being pushed.

U-tubes are what gets water in and out of undrilled tanks. If you siphon water out of your tank when performing a waterchange then you already have the basic principles of a U-tube. Typically, U-tubes on the drain are enclosed in a pair or boxes, one in and one outside of the tank, to keep the siphon in the tube. Well designed boxes won't lose siphon during a power failure, but stay primed and ready for when the pumps restart.


Even though you are still a bit away from this step. Once you have everything plumbed and ready to go, fill the display until water starts flowing into the sump. Then fill the sump to the highest water level you feel comfortable with and turn the pumps on. Once everything settles and balances between the two tanks look at the return section of the sump. Mark that water level as Max, flood, warning, danger, or whatever you like to know that if water is over that mark, you risk flooding when you lose power. I then take out roughly 10-20% of the sumps volume and mark it as my normal running level. That way I still have wiggle room as corals grow, rock is added from frags, and lets me know when I've topped off enough water.

Hope that helped. Stupid wall of text post of mine.
 
qwik

qwik

I would advise the tank builder that you plan on using a vortech in the tank . They do create a wave effect if you wish and this puts possitive and negative force on the glass . Not sure how well this would work on a rimless tank . If all is good two of the small (mp10's) would be cool. I have two vortechs in my tank,on opposite sides and get great circular flow with the wave .
 
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