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Well I have redbugs. :mad:

Well I'm fairly certain where they came from but I'm not 100% sure how to get rid of them. I do not want to nuke the tank but still want to treat it. Since I'm setting up a 75 gal I figure I can just QT all the SPS during the switch and give it a week or so before putting them into the 75. I believe that if there is no SPS in the tank it should only take a week or two for the redbugs to die out. Any suggestions would be great.

Another thought is just throw my big chocolate chip star in the tank. That should take care of all my problems.
 
Not sure what you mean with the CC star, but the treatment for redbugs is interceptor. It can be hard to find though. It may/will kill crabs and shrimp, snails would be fine. Just QT'ng the sps will not get rid of them on the SPS though they need to be treated. Give a search for interceptor and you will find all the info you need
 
I actually was going to set up a QT tank and dip all my SPS in the bayer advantage mix before putting them into QT(is this just for sps or will it work as a dip for lps and softies?). I read that if your tank is SPS free the redbugs will die off in a week or so.

As for the QT tank I'm just going to set up a 10 gal with a rack in it. My only thought is I don't want it to cycle. Will a twice a week water change be good enough? The only live rock in there will be is what a couple of small rocks that a few corals are encrusted to. If the rock is to big I'm just going to break it off. Should I put a HOB filter on there or is a heater and power head good enough? Any suggestions would be awesome.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
If your willing and able to QT your sps, I’d first dip them (10 – 15 minutes) in Bayer Advance Complete Insect Killer…..8 mls per liter of tank water. And I’d do that every week for at least three weeks. This stuff doesn’t kill eggs, so that’s why you have to do it over a three week period.

BayerAdvanced.jpg




I’d also treat the DT with Interceptor if you can get it…there’s something going on with manufacturing and I don’t know if they’ve finally gotten it straighten out. Note that you have to take out all shrimp, snails and whatever other inverts you have. It will kill all pods as well.
 
If your willing and able to QT your sps, I’d first dip them (10 – 15 minutes) in Bayer Advance Complete Insect Killer…..8 mls per liter of tank water. And I’d do that every week for at least three weeks. This stuff doesn’t kill eggs, so that’s why you have to do it over a three week period.

BayerAdvanced.jpg




I’d also treat the DT with Interceptor if you can get it…there’s something going on with manufacturing and I don’t know if they’ve finally gotten it straighten out. Note that you have to take out all shrimp, snails and whatever other inverts you have. It will kill all pods as well.

I'm actually in the middle of doing this now. As far as treating the DT I read (forget where trying to find it)that if it goes SPS free for awhile they will die off as there is nothing for them to feed on. Am I wrong. Should I treat the tank ontop of dipping and QTing them. I would think that would be over kill as the Inceptor would take care of it and there would be no need to dip the corals. Man these things are such a pain.
 
Snails will survive the treatment. So will stars and stomatellas. The rest are toast though. If you decide to treat the tank, don't bother with the QT just leave them in. Interceptor is really the better way to go though. If you decide to qt though and don't treat the tank don't be surprised if you get them again when you make the change over. There is some discussion on whether or not red bugs are live bearers or egg layers. That is the main reason for the 3 treatments with interceptor.
 
As for the QT tank I'm just going to set up a 10 gal with a rack in it. My only thought is I don't want it to cycle. Will a twice a week water change be good enough? The only live rock in there will be is what a couple of small rocks that a few corals are encrusted to. If the rock is to big I'm just going to break it off. Should I put a HOB filter on there or is a heater and power head good enough? Any suggestions would be awesome.

Any Suggestions? Right now there is just a Power Head and a Heater.
 

Fish Brain

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
You will be fine with a heater and powerhead. A HOB is not really necessary for short term treatment, but will help with small particle filtration and surface agitation. Do not run carbon during treatment.

After you start treatment, keep an eye on your water perameters. If you have LR in there you might get some die off of little critters in the rock with treatment, so have fresh water on hand incase you need to do a quick water change.
 
You will be fine with a heater and powerhead. A HOB is not really necessary for short term treatment, but will help with small particle filtration and surface agitation. Do not run carbon during treatment.

After you start treatment, keep an eye on your water perameters. If you have LR in there you might get some die off of little critters in the rock with treatment, so have fresh water on hand incase you need to do a quick water change.

Sounds good. Also found the post that states that without acro's redbugs will die out in the DT in about a week.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2155488
 

Fish Brain

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Might take a week for them to die but if there are any eggs it will be longer than one week.
 
Might take a week for them to die but if there are any eggs it will be longer than one week.

Yeah I figured that, but I'm waiting a month and going to dip the corals once a week for 4 weeks before putting them back in. I figured they can stay in QT until I set up my 75 and make sure it doesn't do a mini cycle and stress the corals even more.
 
Just remember that even the slightest bit of SPS in the DT that remains can harbor the red bugs. Including any spots that may have encrusted to the rock and you don't notice. When you pull the SPS out make sure you get it all.
 

grink

NJRC Member
Are you sure they are red bugs?
Any pics?
If they are I would talk to Matt about using Zeofit. NJ Reef Farm in Trenton, one of our sponsors.
 
Well I woke up to a wash out today.
Par.
PO4-0.25
Nitrate-5
Nitrite-0
Amonia-0
Alk-9
Cal-400
Sal-1.024
PH-7.8
The only thing I can figure is that the PO4 is 1/4 of what the tank was. Other than that I have no clue.

IMG-20121028-01605.jpg
 
Also had another thought. I pulled all my Monti's out but now I'm reading that redbugs aren't a monti pest. So I might just redip them and put them back into the display.
 
Well I figured I'd switch lights with the thought it might help the corals in QT. Went form a 2 bulb t5ho to a 14k MH. Just forgot how hot that gets :eek: . I almost cooked the tank. Good thing I went home for lunch. Now I have a fan blowing on the tank and light. LOL. The one thing I noticed though is the colors come out a lot more with my MH that the T5.
 
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