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Fred's Fluval Reef 1/30/2010
- Thread starter fcruz420
- Start date
you may want to raise the salinity to 35ppt - or specific gravity of 1.025.
As for ph - 7.9 may be fine. I get 8.4 on mine but that's because i use kalk.
Here's the text that is from RHFarley (It's stickied in the general discussions forum):
As a goal, I'd suggest that the pH of natural seawater, about 8.2, is appropriate, but coral reef aquaria can clearly succeed in a wider range of pH values. In my opinion, the pH range from 7.8 to 8.5 is an acceptable range for reef aquaria, with several caveats. These are:
That the alkalinity is at least 2.5 meq/L, and preferably higher at the lower end of this pH range. I base this statement partly on the fact that many reef aquaria operate quite effectively in the pH 7.8 to 8.0 range, and that most of the best examples of these types of aquaria incorporate calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors which, while tending to lower the pH, keep the carbonate alkalinity fairly high (at or above 3 meq/L.). In this case, any problems associated with calcification at these lower pH values may be offset by the higher alkalinity.
That the calcium level is at least 400 ppm. Calcification becomes more difficult as the pH and calcium levels fall. It is not desirable to push all of the extremes of pH, alkalinity, and calcium at the same time, so if the pH is low and cannot be easily changed (as may be the case in an aquarium with a CaCO3/CO2 reactor), at least make sure that the calcium level is normal to high (~400-450 ppm).
Likewise, one of the problems at higher pH (anywhere above 8.2, but progressively more problematic with each incremental rise) is the abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate, resulting in a drop in calcium and alkalinity, and the clogging of heaters and pump impellers. If you push the pH to 8.4 or higher (as often happens when using limewater), make sure that both the calcium and alkalinity levels are suitably maintained (that is, neither too low, inhibiting biological calcification, nor too high, causing excessive abiotic precipitation on equipment).
Transient upward spikes are less deleterious than transient downward spikes in pH.
As for ph - 7.9 may be fine. I get 8.4 on mine but that's because i use kalk.
Here's the text that is from RHFarley (It's stickied in the general discussions forum):
As a goal, I'd suggest that the pH of natural seawater, about 8.2, is appropriate, but coral reef aquaria can clearly succeed in a wider range of pH values. In my opinion, the pH range from 7.8 to 8.5 is an acceptable range for reef aquaria, with several caveats. These are:
That the alkalinity is at least 2.5 meq/L, and preferably higher at the lower end of this pH range. I base this statement partly on the fact that many reef aquaria operate quite effectively in the pH 7.8 to 8.0 range, and that most of the best examples of these types of aquaria incorporate calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors which, while tending to lower the pH, keep the carbonate alkalinity fairly high (at or above 3 meq/L.). In this case, any problems associated with calcification at these lower pH values may be offset by the higher alkalinity.
That the calcium level is at least 400 ppm. Calcification becomes more difficult as the pH and calcium levels fall. It is not desirable to push all of the extremes of pH, alkalinity, and calcium at the same time, so if the pH is low and cannot be easily changed (as may be the case in an aquarium with a CaCO3/CO2 reactor), at least make sure that the calcium level is normal to high (~400-450 ppm).
Likewise, one of the problems at higher pH (anywhere above 8.2, but progressively more problematic with each incremental rise) is the abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate, resulting in a drop in calcium and alkalinity, and the clogging of heaters and pump impellers. If you push the pH to 8.4 or higher (as often happens when using limewater), make sure that both the calcium and alkalinity levels are suitably maintained (that is, neither too low, inhibiting biological calcification, nor too high, causing excessive abiotic precipitation on equipment).
Transient upward spikes are less deleterious than transient downward spikes in pH.
Day 16fcruz420 said:
Ammonia in between 0 and 0.25 color range, PH 7.9, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salt is 1.022-1.023, Temp 79.9
Day 17
Ammonia in between 0 and 0.25 color range, PH 7.9, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salt is 1.022-1.023, Temp 80.4
Day 18
Ammonia 0, PH 7.9, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salt is 1.023-1.024, Temp 79.9
Day 19
Ammonia 0, PH 7.9, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salt is 1.023-1.024, Temp 80.3
Day 20
Ammonia 0, PH 7.9, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salt is 1.023-1.024, Temp 80.0
I guess its patience time for the tank. I have a little cyano on the sand and some GHA on the thermometer probe. I'm looking for which snails will consume them. ;D
Ohhh yea and tons of coraline growth on the powerhead, heater, epoxy LR and glass at times 8)
I also added a small LR next to the zoa colony to see if it will spread. I've been feeding the tank reef plus and they seem to love it. The zoa color has improved and the tentacles are extended often lol
Ohhh yea and tons of coraline growth on the powerhead, heater, epoxy LR and glass at times 8)
I also added a small LR next to the zoa colony to see if it will spread. I've been feeding the tank reef plus and they seem to love it. The zoa color has improved and the tentacles are extended often lol