Jersey reefers help !!!

[Jeremy Brito]

Ok so I did alittle digging around an may have come up with a few possibilities but with out being able to exam the coral tissue under a microscope I can not say for sure.

Theory 1. Flat worms (some genus of them), flat worms come in a wide variety some harmless others not, the flat worms will live around the base of the coral were the skeleton and the flesh meet, they are small and brown or flesh tone they are known to eat into the flesh of the coral and lay there eggs when the eggs hatch they two munch on the coral. In theory the tips that have holes could have been the areas were the eggs were laid and hatched. In this theory the pests weakened the coral and eventually lead it to tissue narcosis. Flat worms are hard to kill at times and may require multiple dips of different solutions.
** I recommend API Melafix kills flatworms**

Theory 2 brown jelly disease how ever brown jelly diease is usually super obvious.

theory 3 would be a bacterial or protozoan infection.

 

[Sponge]

sorry it took me so long to get back I had to go to work. those holes to me look like something has been eating them. possibly Nudibrancs (idk if I spelled that right) sea slugs small ones, or parasitic worms. what ever it is its not safe for the rest of your tank and I honestly in my opinion would not take any risks and would begin sweeping the tank to ensure if anything came in with the frags it did not transfer to another coral. At the first sign of any coral not looking normal I would be concerned and take immediate action. What ever it is needs to be hunted down quickly and isolated/killed

I second the above

 

[Robert geller]

I dipped and thoroughly cleaned and cut area I transferred to my qt tank and will spend it’s last days there unless it makes a complete turnaround which I doubt.

 

[Sponge]

I don’t know if this will help you or not. But I was loosing a trumpet coral (candy cane) it was slowly shrinking and loosing flesh. I kept moving it to different flow and lighting conditions but nothing helped. Finally I gave it a dip in coral RX. And started dosing amino acids. I don’t know if I saved it yet. But it has stopped degrading and looks much better. I have only been using the aminos for a week now and general appearance of most things in tank looks better. Only time will tell if I was to late for the trumpet but my fingers are crossed.

 

[Robert geller]

What aminos are you using ? I was looking into it, I mean my nutrients are looking good and I have a nano I’m afraid that dosing aminos will spike po4 and no3

 

[Sponge]

What aminos are you using ? I was looking into it, I mean my nutrients are looking good and I have a nano I’m afraid that dosing aminos will spike po4 and no3

Brightwell aquatics. There are others. But it’s the only one WWC uses. I have a lot. Your welcome to take a sample. If you have a container. Preferably with an eye dropper. However. You must be careful not to contaminate it. Never let your eye dropper touch the tank water or get anything in it or it will spoil fast.

 

[Jeremy Brito]

Brightwell aquatics. There are others. But it’s the only one WWC uses. I have a lot. Your welcome to take a sample. If you have a container. Preferably with an eye dropper. However. You must be careful not to contaminate it. Never let your eye dropper touch the tank water or get anything in it or it will spoil fast.

how do you dose your aminos i have a bottle of the same brightwell you mentioned that @trio91 sent me after a whole shipping debacle he had when trying to send me something... Fedex i believe still has not made up for there mistakes. but anyways.
I usually mix it into the foods i feed but i heard people just drip into the flow of the tank what do you recommend for best results.

 

[Sponge]

One eye dropper per 50 gallons directly in tank. With skimmer off and mechanical filtration removed for ten minutes My understanding is that corals utilize aminos thru absorption more redly then digestion. So soaking in food can sort of be a waste of time. They say you should target them if possible. But my tank has coral everywhere. Target spraying ends up broadcast anyway.

 

[Jeremy Brito]

Rob ive still been thinking about these torches I don't believe nutrients are the issue in my opinion but it couldn't hurt to try at this point. Have you had a chance to try and examine them under a magnifying glass? If you do get a chance look at the tissue around the wounds for serrated edges as this would indicate bite marks, clean straight edges are physical wounds caused by cutting or tares in the tissue. Also look at the body of the coral polyp for anything abnormal, bumps or things that look different from the natural tissue of the coral polyp these things could indicate parasites as some of these pests can even closely resemble the coral color making them hard to find and remove.
At this point you are playing more of a detective role, you want to try and look for possible causes while you can so that way you know what to look for or do if it pops up else were in your main tank. If we can identify the cause we may be able to find a solution as well

 

[Jeremy Brito]

One eye dropper per 50 gallons directly in tank. With skimmer off and mechanical filtration removed for ten minutes My understanding is that corals utilize aminos thru absorption more redly then digestion. So soaking in food can sort of be a waste of time. They say you should target them if possible. But my tank has coral everywhere. Target spraying ends up broadcast anyway.

I kinda was semi aware of the broad cast method being the recommended method i just wasn't convinced these aminos being dosed that way would make it to the corals. i am assuming the stuff is like a super concentrate in which dosing the water directly would be the equivalent a large amount available in the water column of the wild for it to be of any use in the tank but i guess i have to do more research to understand how it works better.
I also like to make my own fish foods, some times i use premade name brand stuff that ill defrost and mix with other frozen to make like my own blend. Right now im using Mysis and this flat frozen pack of Prawn (similar to whole krill) plus some fish i got from the market and a couple of other foods. I clean and strain all my foods to get rid of any of the juice from the packing plant because you would be surprised the stuff i find mixed into the flat packs, stuff like bugs and silver sides small clams and squid, once i found a half of a clownfish and this stuff is popular name brand food. once its all cleaned and rinsed ill put it in a container and mix in different portions of other foods fish eggs mysis what ever and then add a few drops of the aminos to boot and freeze it. this way when i defrost to feed its clean and prepared nicely

 

[Jeremy Brito]

Rob I think I landed on the issue in one of my coral propagation books. According to what you've stated and the images you showed us this looks like it may possibly be rapid tissue necrosis, which is a bacterial infection and has nothing to do with husbandry as is shown be the high quality of the rest of your tank.
Rapid tissue necrosis starts with the weakening of the coral tissue followed by a rapid spread infection leading to the die off of the corals tissue and it turning into mush. Rapid tissue necrosis is thought to be contagious and care should be used when removing the coral to make sure you siphon up any tissue that falls off from the tank. Iodine dips and other anti bacterial dips maybe beneficial, also suggested to try and frag a portion of the coral that is apparently completely out of the reach of the infection and isolate it in a qt tank and monitor