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Led T5 lamps anyone.

I am not really disputing that those lights can put out those par values, but my dispute is that they are using a crap load more of cheaper leds to do it.  Its the same as using 10 10watt bulbs or 1 100 watt bulb. For ease of repairing it and my favorite principle KISS, how much harder do you think that is to repair? It's kind of like that how many light bulbs do you want to change? Paying someone to solder 50 versus 10 is going to be a big price difference for the repair bill as well. You are dedicating yourself to the success of that company with the hope that you will have the parts 4 years from now to repair it. Also, what happens if just half of a t5 bulb goes out? The whole thing is going in the dumpster. I just feel like it is investing in a beta vcr or something.

I don't see any manufacturers using any of the high output cree Xr's or comparable models in their lights. I don't think that even solaris was using the really high output led's before they went under. When a light like that hits the market under $1k, then I think LED lights will be an awesome choice.
As of now, I feel that at least with the DIY options you are relatively safe if something happens, even if you weren't the one to make it.
 
I like to keep it to a simple conversation, but when you are wrong on type of LED used & penetration/PAR readings - I think it should be pointed out.

I do agree with you that it is my concern what will happen in 5 yrs from now - and I dont have a clue on that.  I simply dont.

My math was rather simple: do I get 2 36" ATI fitures or stick with MH or LED? You do the math and you might be surprised with the final verdict.

You can get LED fixtures with high output cree - Wingo does them, but some may question what is it better 9 1W bulbs or 3 3W led bulbs? 
 
I have gone through that RC thread before. The par values of that compared to retail fixtures are wayyy to low. Pacific Sun claims to have above 200 par at 24" depth. The DIY fixture has that at the surface !! So inspite of using higher output LEDS, the guy cut corners on LED numbers/ input wattage, because personally we can never match a comapany's R&D budget, nor their bulk buying discounts on parts. He now has $600 and many man hours invested in a project that leaves much to be desired in the primary source of life in his reef system.

I am all for a good DIY and making my buck go the farthest, but I am yet to come across a good LED light fixture design. Retail has started to pick up in a big way, Edward had mentioned that IceCap is also in the mix. I am in no hurry .. since my 90G isnt even in my house yet ... but I am unwilling to invest in a dinosaur and playing catch up later.
 
I don't really care to argue today. But I wasn't wrong with anything I said. They are cree SMD's with 120 degree optics. They are just a different wavelength than the pdf I linked. I also wasn't wrong in saying they are a lower output led.

Anyhow, as long as everyone stays away from anything that uses a lot of 5mm LEDs like the sunbright, which will lose it's par value quickly, you should be ok.

Yeah, I know wingo makes them, I spoke with him a few times during Macna. His lights are all DIY style. He claims to have 20k leds that are better than the crees. I will probably be buying some led's from him for a nano if I feel the motivation to do it. :)

Gogol, that was kind of my point. Expand on his design using the newer led's with optics and you will get amazing par values. (These are the same type of led's they are using on street lights now.)
I don't think he has a dinosaur by any means. He just built a light that met his current demand and budget. If he spent a little more, bought in bulk, and added the optics with the extra leds it would be substantially higher par values.

On a side note, since Solaris got shut down by a patent lawsuit for manufacturing led aquarium lighting, what is stopping Pacific Sun from getting sued as well?
 
Sunbrite - you are correct - they have even problem with their 2nd gen led bulbs - those were not even released as far as my knowledge.

Wingos LED - you can see them at Manhttan Aquariums - just ask them to put it one since they have them in the store, but are not using - at least when I was there. they had them near acans frag tank.

PS LED - I will test their PAR reading against any light you have to compare it any time after Nov 12th.
 
... I will talk with Wingo and check out his light sometime next week.

Mike, I really wanted to check out what happened to the solitary Cap coral in that tank a couple of months later, but the thread has been closed. That being said, you are right, and the guy desinged per his requirements. But $600 light for a softy tank is also a bit much (he does have lesser carbon footprint though).


..
On a side note, since Solaris got shut down by a patent lawsuit for manufacturing led aquarium lighting, what is stopping Pacific Sun from getting sued as well?

Do copyright infringement laws apply to only for-profit organisations, or individuals as well? I sure as hell would not want to face a majour law suit. But yeah, raf got me interested in this yesterday and I havent done much research on the tech advancements made. I was just exited that retail products now show pretty good values for near comparable prices.

P.S. By dinosaurs I had meant halides .... (for something that in my mind was good while it lasted but is now is too big, to slow, and requires a lot of food)
 
gogol said:
I have gone through that RC thread before. The par values of that compared to retail fixtures are wayyy to low. Pacific Sun claims to have above 200 par at 24" depth. The DIY fixture has that at the surface !! So inspite of using higher output LEDS, the guy cut corners on LED numbers/ input wattage, because personally we can never match a comapany's R&D budget, nor their bulk buying discounts on parts. He now has $600 and many man hours invested in a project that leaves much to be desired in the primary source of life in his reef system.

I am all for a good DIY and making my buck go the farthest, but I am yet to come across a good LED light fixture design. Retail has started to pick up in a big way, Edward had mentioned that IceCap is also in the mix. I am in no hurry .. since my 90G isnt even in my house yet ... but I am unwilling to invest in a dinosaur and playing catch up later.

One thing to note is that his PAR values are without the additional optics. (This is soundman's $600 led build right we're talking about?) With the proper additional optics you can reach 150W or 250W MH PAR levels at the sandbed.
 
The shotglass cup algae got devoured within an hour of going in my tank. My tangs really liked them, lesson learned. I don't know I think the par value is pretty good for a 75 gallon. 175 watt equivalent isn't that weak. I have sps under an 18 watt light that is growing.(slowly) I think it is more a water quality thing. Also there are two different people on nano-reef that are making some high output high quality stuff. One guy is integrating the controller right into the light fixture. The other guy is using so many leds that he is running at 40% of his output and it looks impressive.

I think patents are more to prevent manufacturing of the design not toward individuals. I am just worried that until it all gets straightened out that led light manufacturers are going to be slowed down. Perhaps that is why there is no one using cree style lights for fear of a lawsuit.
 
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