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Move the sump or not?

Ive been debating on moving the sump on my current setup to the lower level of my split level home. Current setup is 90g display and 40 breeder sump/frag tank. I was looking at using an iwaki md-30rxt return pump with about 12ft of head. It's not going to be a straight drop down from one floor to the next,would be about 15+ ft of plumbing through joists behind Sheetrock going to a utility closet. This will all be connected to a 40 gallon breeder frag tank with a 55 gallon refugium below it. The reason why I've been debating this is my current sump area is overwhelmed with dosing pumps/containers wiring ac adapters ato tank you guys get the point. Anyone have experience or insight on this.
 
I think you will love having the utilities of the system located remotely provided everything you need can fit their. Stuff like a mixing station and must importantly a sink to do WC's from.
The pump though might be a little small. I'm running a blue line 55hd with similar lengths and head. It only runs the tank and is maxed at right around 400gph through the sump. If you are going to connect a manifold and run everything from one pump the 30 just won't cut it
 
I can't seem to find any flow charts to say how many gallons at X head height ,the more I look the more I'm going to have to go with a bigger pump but dread adding another 200 watts of 24/7 usage to the electric bill. Now I was going to go with rigid PVC but have seen some using flexible hose which would make the project a lot easier
 

horseplay

NJRC Member
Try to reduce the head by setting up the sump higher. My setup has 10 ft head and only use about 50 watts.

And agree with the flexible PVC much easier to run and fewer 90 degree elbows means less head loss.
 
If I was doing a sump only it would be possible to keep it up high. But since I'm doing a frag tank and a sump below it it's just not possible
 
I used all ultra flex. In my return I only have a 1 union, 1 tee, and 2 ball valves. The rest is one long run of ultra flex. The stuff is great and can be had very cheap on amazon
1" x 50' Ultra-Flex PVC Pipe
This is what I used. Black is actually a bit cheaper.
(White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052UYX4C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_skLZub1X7015T
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052UYX4C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_skLZub1X7015T

Take a look at the blue line 50hd and 70hd. I think the 50 would work for you. I like having a dedicated pump for DT so I have a second pump running my manifold for all reactors and frag tank.
 

horseplay

NJRC Member
I have a frag tank as well (although not yet running). I have the sump 2ft off the fl and the frag tank 3ft off the fl.
 
I'm going to do some more research throughout the day on the pump ,now also I'm running an apex system with two separate energy bar 8's and would be running one in the lower level. I would have to buy a 15ft cable and a 15ft extention cable. Anyone done this also
 
I originally had flex pvc as my drain line from my tank to my sump but it was causing surging and many issues so I changed it to hard pvc and I couldn't be happier. I have about 10 feet of horizontal distance between my tank and my filter room and getting the pitch was a lot easier with the pvc. No air pockets in the drain. I later installed a herbie drain so I had to add another drain line and it was easy.

My apex is in my basement in my sump. I do not use it to control my lighting. If I had to run the apex tension wire I would zip tie the cable to the outside of the pvc drain until it reaches my filter room.

I am using an Iwaki 70 to run my system with various manifolds and I only have about 85 gallons of total water volume.
 
I did that as well. All you need is the 15' aquabus to connect it. If it's not long enough you can get longer cables on eBay pretty cheap.
 
Brs sells a 15'extension for $20 and the other 15' for the the same. We are renovating the house so now is the time to do it and it seems like a better idea for the drain line to be rigid. I'll have to see what I have to work with behind the Sheetrock with the forced air ducting
 
My buddy who did the remote fish room for his 340 used the flexible for the drains and I believe rigid for the returns, but I can double check that. Its a great setup if you can do it, as it just seems so much easier to live with then having it under the tank.
 
I used flex for both drains and returns mainly cause I didn't want to deal with fittings and the few turns I had. No problems with either.

What are the two 15' extensions you keep mentioning. You will only need an aquabus cable to connect the eb8 to the apex downstairs. The plug for the eb8 can go into any outlet.
 
I wish I had a basement. I've seen Johns set up and my advice would be do it. Your back is an issue and this way you can make and change water with the flip of a switch and be done with it.
 
You have the oversized crawl space. Do you still have the tank setup down there? Brs shows a aquabus cable and a extension cable. The main reason for doing the remote sump is because of my crippled back,can't handle carrying ato water tanks and doing water changes anymore by myself and don't want to pester someone every time I've got to do maintenance. How's an iwaki md55rlt sound as a return. Now are 55 and 40 gallon tank bases able to be drilled.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
.......Now are 55 and 40 gallon tank bases able to be drilled.

Most bottom glass is tempered.....but very easy to check. Use a phone, tablet, laptop with a white screen. Put this device in the tank. Using polarized sunglasses, look at the screen and turn it until it goes black. If it is totally black, it's not tempered. If you see blotchy white streaks, than the glass is tempered and can not be drilled.
 
Well that project just came to a stall. Had my contract at the house yesterday and told him what the plans were and after a little investigating in his part found the remote sump is a no go I would have to drill two holes through the header. He said sure go and do it but the inspectors aren't going to be happy about it.
 
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