Just curious if anyone here is doing any seahorses? Was just wondering how hard they are to keep. Was considering adding some to a peaceful community tank and how slow the flow must be to accommodate them. What is the feeding like (assuming they are CB and will take frozen mysis). Do I need to feed them several times a day?
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Seahorses
- Thread starter calaxa
- Start date
So far everyone's info is spot on. Seahorses are not difficult IF you meet their needs. They require cooler tank temperatures, 72-74 max, peaceful tank mates and a moderate, dispersed flow, 7-10x turnover as long as you use spray bars and flare nozzles.
Minimum tank size would be 29 gallons for 2 seahorses. You definitely want to be sure and get true captive bred specimens from a reputable source. Any good breeder will have them already trained to frozen mysis by the time you get them. Feedings are 2-3x daily and they need to be fed every day.
Here is a good start to look for tank mates: http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/tankmates/tankmates.shtml.
If you have any specific questions feel free to ask away. I'll help with anything I can.
Minimum tank size would be 29 gallons for 2 seahorses. You definitely want to be sure and get true captive bred specimens from a reputable source. Any good breeder will have them already trained to frozen mysis by the time you get them. Feedings are 2-3x daily and they need to be fed every day.
Here is a good start to look for tank mates: http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/tankmates/tankmates.shtml.
If you have any specific questions feel free to ask away. I'll help with anything I can.
They take a bit of dedication and commitment to keep. All clowns can become territorial and aggressive as they age. That and they are usually aggressive eaters and will out compete the seahorse for food. Seahorses are slow eaters.
matt-minor feedback - the pic and scientific name of the clown is for a percula - not an occelaris. Obviously they are pretty much one and the same but didn't know if it was necessary to note on your tankmates page the other scientific name.
I was thinking also though that if you mix species - wouldn't keeping any kind of tropical fish (used to 80 degree water) in a 74 degree bath cause stress on the fish? Or would they just become sedate/less active?
I was thinking also though that if you mix species - wouldn't keeping any kind of tropical fish (used to 80 degree water) in a 74 degree bath cause stress on the fish? Or would they just become sedate/less active?
Thanks Phil, actually occelaris isn't even in the guide yet as we didn't have pictures of it at the time. The rules apply to all species of clown though. Clown are merely damsels in fancy clothes.
I keep tropical gobies and other peaceful fish and even corals with my seahorses and all do fine.
If by mixing of species you are referring to mixing species of seahorses that is not recommended regardless of the temperatures. Mixing of species presents a whole new set of problems and requirements.
I keep tropical gobies and other peaceful fish and even corals with my seahorses and all do fine.
If by mixing of species you are referring to mixing species of seahorses that is not recommended regardless of the temperatures. Mixing of species presents a whole new set of problems and requirements.
Hawk,
Fish are just slightly less active when water is cooler. I don't know long term effects though. It's very common for people to keep Banggai in reefs and they are more suited for a colder temp like most seahorses.
I noticed that occelaris wasn't there as well but figured they closely resemble percs (though a little more docile). It seems that only very slow moving fish can really be kept with the ponies.
Fish are just slightly less active when water is cooler. I don't know long term effects though. It's very common for people to keep Banggai in reefs and they are more suited for a colder temp like most seahorses.
I noticed that occelaris wasn't there as well but figured they closely resemble percs (though a little more docile). It seems that only very slow moving fish can really be kept with the ponies.
sea horse would be like a dream come true for us - wife/kids love them. But i would probably need to invest in a chiller in the summer and while that is not difficult - the feeding frequency seems daunting to me.
What does one do when going away on extended vacation? Do you just let them go without food for that period of time? Or mitigate it (somewhat) with a tank sitter coming by once a day?
What does one do when going away on extended vacation? Do you just let them go without food for that period of time? Or mitigate it (somewhat) with a tank sitter coming by once a day?
most of us keep our houses in the 70 degree ball park, so if we didn't use excessively bright lights, chillers shouldn't be neccessary correct? elevated pc's or t5's shouldn't raise the temp alot...
Hawkeye said:
What's a vacation? I haven't gone away for more than a weekend since I started keeping seahorses 5 years ago. Even then I have someone come in a feed them for me.
REEFLECTIONS said:
You would actually be surprised as to how much heat is generated by your pumps and even PC's and T5's. Even with an ambient room temperature of 70-71 degrees you will still see and 4-5 degree increase in temperature with the lights and pumps running. Of course you can keep the temp down with just a small clip on fan if you only need a 3-4 degree temp drop.
If you run your temperatures consistently above 74, even by 2-3 degrees, it will only be a matter of time before problems arise.
Nope you need to keep the food frozen until fed out. Frozen foods are only good for about an hour at best once thawed. After that they start to break down and rot.
I know of a couple people that were working on an auto feeder just for frozen foods but the prototypes were really expensive to build.
I know of a couple people that were working on an auto feeder just for frozen foods but the prototypes were really expensive to build.
For what its worth, I have two seahorse (male and female reidi) in a peaceful, community reef tank. They've only been in there a bit over a month, so maybe I should wait another 6 or more before adding my experience, but I've found them to be very easy. Though I think it takes a bit of luck with the individual seahorse too.
180 gallon tank. live rock, etc. usually at about 80-83 degrees. Corals, gobies, r.gramma, two small perculas, small blue tang, dartfish, cleaner shrimp, blue legged hermits, turbo snails. Two Koralia 4's. 150 watt MHs. No refugium yet.
Our black captive bred female was added first (about 3-4 inches), and we initially were turning the the powerheads off and target feeding her mysis (she would go straight to the turkey baster and eat straight from it). But after a while we realized she doesn't need that. She literally swims all over the place, and way up into the water column if necessary to get her food. She's slow, but nobody bothers her at all. The blue tang comes closest to competing with her, willing to take a mysis that she's staring at if she's too too slow.
The yellow captive bred male (4+ inches)on the other hand added a week later is tougher. He eats less frozen mysis all the time, preferring to rummage the live rock for copepods. He is always rummaging and more rarely seen. No one bothers him either. He tried to befriend the female on day one, wrapping his tail around her, but she turned pale, escaped, and wants nothing to do with him. They're never together.
Anyway, both look healthy, though the female is fuller with more of a potbelly. So far the water flow doesn't bother them at all, though they do spend more of the time in the deader spots. I feed the whole tank a combination of foods (some flakes, pellets, enriched frozen brine, occasional live brine), but the most common is frozen mysis.
180 gallon tank. live rock, etc. usually at about 80-83 degrees. Corals, gobies, r.gramma, two small perculas, small blue tang, dartfish, cleaner shrimp, blue legged hermits, turbo snails. Two Koralia 4's. 150 watt MHs. No refugium yet.
Our black captive bred female was added first (about 3-4 inches), and we initially were turning the the powerheads off and target feeding her mysis (she would go straight to the turkey baster and eat straight from it). But after a while we realized she doesn't need that. She literally swims all over the place, and way up into the water column if necessary to get her food. She's slow, but nobody bothers her at all. The blue tang comes closest to competing with her, willing to take a mysis that she's staring at if she's too too slow.
The yellow captive bred male (4+ inches)on the other hand added a week later is tougher. He eats less frozen mysis all the time, preferring to rummage the live rock for copepods. He is always rummaging and more rarely seen. No one bothers him either. He tried to befriend the female on day one, wrapping his tail around her, but she turned pale, escaped, and wants nothing to do with him. They're never together.
Anyway, both look healthy, though the female is fuller with more of a potbelly. So far the water flow doesn't bother them at all, though they do spend more of the time in the deader spots. I feed the whole tank a combination of foods (some flakes, pellets, enriched frozen brine, occasional live brine), but the most common is frozen mysis.
jgana,
Not to sound rude or anything but you have a ticking time bomb on your hands. I have seen your scenario attempted many times and the results are always the same. Sick or dead seahorses within 6 months tops. With your extremely high temperatures and incompatible tank mates it is only a matter of time before disaster strikes.
Please keep us updated on them.
Not to sound rude or anything but you have a ticking time bomb on your hands. I have seen your scenario attempted many times and the results are always the same. Sick or dead seahorses within 6 months tops. With your extremely high temperatures and incompatible tank mates it is only a matter of time before disaster strikes.
Please keep us updated on them.