• Folks, if you've recently upgraded or renewed your annual club membership but it's still not active, please reach out to the BOD or a moderator. The PayPal system has a slight bug which it doesn't allow it to activate the account on it's own.

Your RO might be worthless

IMPORTANT READ FOR RO/DI USERS - long but important!

As many of your know I've been working on a salt mixture and had sent results out to be tested to see how they match my meter and testing. They tested for more then typical salt elements and I found something troubling.

After investigating and doing checking I traced the source problem back to my RO/DI unit. I had just replaced sediment, carbon, membrane and DI filters/resins only 300 gallons or so before doing my salt mix test so I assumed everything was good. NOPE

Further investigating and a few phone calls and I find out that my township doesn't add chlorine to the water but instead produces Chloramines. On top of this they add soda lime or sodium hydroxide (to prevent piping corrosion).

I'm going to quote Charles Mitsis, President SpectraPure Inc. on the following:
"In order to understand the mechanism of chloramine removal, a little background information on the chemistry of chloramines is necessary. Chloramines are formed by the reaction of ammonia and chlorine gas. Chloramines can exist as three chemical species: monochloramine (the predominant species found in tap water), dichloramines and trichloramines. The chloramine species depends upon the pH of the water and the ratios of chlorine to ammonia. At tap water pH levels of 7 to 8.5, the formation of monochloramines is favored. Of the three species, monochloramine is the most stable and difficult to remove, as well as the most damaging to aquatic life."

To add further to this if they pH level of your tap water is 8.5 or higher you are almost guaranteed to have monochloramines.

Below you will see mention of Film-Tec. This is the membrane made by Dow under the name of Film-Tec and is the heart and sole of your RO system. It's the expensive piece that usually sits horizontally on the top of the RO/DI unit and not one of the canisters. Film-Tec membranes are almost universally used in our RO/DI systems.

Quote:
"A "ppm-hour" is defined as the exposure of 1 ppm chlorine/chloramine water for 1 hour.
Film-Tec quotes 300,000 ppm-hours (six years at 1 ppm) of chloramine resistance for their TFC polyamide (PA) membrane material, but only 200 to 1000 ppm-hours of free chlorine resistance. This indicates that chloramines will not damage Film-Tec membranes, while free chlorine levels must be held below 0.1 ppm to prevent oxidation damage. The easiest test for chloramine is with a Total Chlorine Test Kit (SpectraPure Part # TK-CL-10). The TK-CL-10 tests for a combination of free chlorine and chloramines. A sample of the wastewater stream from the RO membrane should show no signs of chlorine."

"Trade-offs exist in almost any circumstance and carbon filtration is no exception.
The smaller the micron rating, the better the removal capacity due to greater surface area. Carbon block filters made with bituminous carbon are more effective than coconut shell carbon filters for removal of monochloramine. On the other hand, in water supplies with chlorine only, the coconut shell carbon may have higher capacities for the removal of free chlorine and low molecular weight volatile organic compounds such as trihalomethanes (chloroform)."

My RO/DI unit was a Typhoon III which uses 2 carbon filters. One is 5 micron and the other is 1 micron. Both are coconut shell carbon filters. <-- good for Chlorine, bad for Chloramines!

Quote:
"Generally, reverse osmosis water is slightly acidic, due to the higher ratio of free CO2 to bicarbonate alkalinity. The exception to this rule is the presence of high pH "soda-lime softening" used by some municipalities. Free CO2 dissolved in water forms carbonic acid that lowers the pH to the range of 5 to 6 pH. In low pH RO product water, the ammonia is converted to the ionized ammonium ion NH4+. Downstream de-ionizing resins can then easily remove this charged species. It is cationic and removed by strong acid cation resins (in the hydrogen form) in either mixed bed or separate bed systems. Aquarists can be certain that when salt is properly added to RO or RO/DI water, the expected salinity and pH will be realized."

Wouldn't you know it my tap water pH is 9.45.

Quote:
"Probably the biggest environmental factor in removal of chloramine is the pH of the tap water. At a pH of 8.3, almost all of the chloramine is in the monochloramine form, which is much harder to remove. As the pH level is lowered, the ratio of dichloramines to monochloramines is increased. Dichloramine is very easy to remove by bituminous activated carbon.

The combination of soda lime softening or sodium hydroxide (to prevent piping corrosion) with chloramines is the worst possible condition. The pH is then often in the 9 to 10 range and at that pH, chloramine is totally converted to monochloramine. The reverse osmosis membrane pores will swell by the combination of high pH and free ammonia. This causes very poor rejection of silica and phosphates, and passage of ammonia through the membrane. Hydroxide ions that are present are also very poorly rejected by the membrane so the pH of the RO product water will be high and ammonia laden, creating additional load to the downstream ion exchange resins."

That pretty much describes my current problem. I'm fouling membranes very quickly and going through full DI cartridges quickly!

In talking/emailing different vendors the best solution I've gotten so far is (quoted from Charles again):

"Our usual solution to this high pH problem with chloramines is to inject hydrochloric acid (HCL) into the feed water to adjust the pH to about 6.0. This accomplishes three things: it neutralizes the hydroxides, converts monochloramines to dichloramines that are readily removed by the carbon prefilters and lastly any free ammonia (NH3+) is converted to the ionized ammonium form. The ammonium ion is well rejected by the RO membrane and in the acid pH range, the swollen membrane pores return to normal with no lasting damage.

But, with a feed water flow of no more than a liter per minute on a small line pressure RO system, an acid injector would cost many times more than the RO system. So what to do?

Nobody likes this solution but when you have water conditions like yours, you have little choice. Fill a 55-100 gallon reservoir with tap water and acidify with HCL to a pH of 6.0. Attached to this reservoir is a high flow booster pump, its inlet flooded, hooked up to your RO system. Operate at 80 psi and all is wonderful. An added benefit to this solution is a decrease in the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI). At this lower pH level, the calcium carbonate will stay in solution and not foul the membrane. The trick is not to concentrate the reject water too greatly so as to precipitate sparingly soluble salts out of solution and onto your membrane. You can also try a concentrate to product water ratio of 3:1 or even 2.5:1 for an improved recovery rate.

If space does not allow you to set up something like this you can add additional stages of DI resins to your system to handle the increased ionic impurities passed on to the DI stages. A two-bed system consisting of a SAC resin in the hydrogen form followed by a SBA resin in the OH form followed by mixed bed(s) would work well but at a greater operating cost."

My advice to ALL of you is to call your local municipality and find out if they use Chlorine or Chloramines and find out if they also use soda lime or sodium hydroxide

Carlo

PS I was directed to the following thread on RC which is where I quoted the info from: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...ighlight=sodium+AND+hydroxide+AND+chloramines
 
Further down in the thread on RC Charles also mentions:
"Centaur Catalytic carbon is very effective at breaking the chloramine bond. With peroxide numbers below 15, it is 5 times as effective as bituminous carbon at removing chloramines. Since empty bed contact time (EBCT) is reduced considerably, much smaller amounts are needed for equivalent or superior removal rates. We have 10 catalytic carbon filters (CF-CAT ) in stock and total chlorine test kits (TK-CL-10 ) to measure the results. By the way, they are great for hydrogen sulfide removal also."

"You will want to place the catalytic carbon filter between the carbon block filter and the sediment filter. The catalytic carbon filter has granular activated carbon and carbon fines that need to be flushed out before hooking up to the RO system. Just put the filter in a housing and run tap water through it, full blast, until the water runs clear."

When asked a question about their "normal" cartridges he replied:

"I am not implying that our cartridges can't be used on municipal water supplies, they are specifically designed for that. What I was pointing out was that some municipal supplies treat the water either with calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide or sodium hydroxide to either soften the water or prevent pipe corrosion. When these chemicals are added, the pH will be in the 9 to 10 range and require more specialized treatment. Your tap water pH of 8.2 is within the range of conventional treatment."

So I guess it's important to ask your municipality about calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide or sodium hydroxide as well as Chloramines

Carlo
 
My personal solution:

I presently have a 5 stage Typhoon III and a Coralife 4 Stage RO/DI filter. I also have a standalone canister. This gives me a total of 2 membranes and 8 canisters to work with at present.

My plan at this point is to run:
Canister 1: 10 micron sediment filter
Canister 2: 5 micron sediment filter
Canister 3: 1 micron sediment filter

This will dump to holding tank with float valve and will be ran from normal house pressure. This holding tank will have a heater to warm the water to 77-80 degrees to make the osmosis (membrane) stage more effective.

Next I will order an expansion board for my Neptune with an additional pH probe. I'll use this to power some type of HCL (hydrochloric acid) drip into the tank to keep the tank water at a steady pH of 6.

From here I'll use a booster pump to push the water back to the canisters:
PSI pressure Gauge installed here
Canister 4: Catalytic Granular Activated Carbon
5.0 micron carbon block filter
Canister 5: 1.0 micron carbon filter
Canister 6: 0.2 micron Zetasorb prefilter
PSI pressure Gauge installed here
Inline conductivity port installed here

This will then pass through the two membranes which will be run in series. What this means is that Canister 6 will feed direction into membrane 1. Membrane 1 waist will feed Membrane 2. Membrane 2 waist will go to drain or storage for another use. The "good" line from each membrane will join at a T connection going to DI. The advantage of two membranes in this fashion is double the flow with half the waist water. I may in fact add a 3rd membrane. The membranes of choice for me will be the TW-1812-150 (98% rejection) for 300gpd or the TW-1812-75 with the booster pump will do 90gpd times 2 = 180gpd.

Inline conductivity port installed here
PSI pressure Gauge installed here

Canister 7 DI Resin
Canister 8 DI Resin
Inline conductivity port installed here
To float switch

Depending on water pressure though all the canisters I may run the two DI resins in parallel instead of in series. I may also choose down the road to go with 20/36" canisters and not run mixed resin but instead run separate resins so I can regenerate them.

I plan on installing PSI gauges inline so I can monitor the pressure going through different parts of the system. If I see a bottleneck I can double up canisters and run 2 in parallel to relieve the bottleneck. IE feed line going to a T connection out to 2 canister followed by another T connection where they are combined again.

As for the holding tank with HCL injection. I'm sure I'll play around with this and see if I can get away from the tank and make an inline mixing reactor using diluted HCL.

I presently have undetectable CO2 levels in my tap water mainly because of the high pH. Once I neutralize the pH with HCL I'll need to check the CO2 levels again right before the DI stages. If CO2 is present (kills DI resin) I'll build a "Degasser" out of PVC pipe and airstones and gravity feed the DI stage.

Carlo

Just what I needed "another project" :)
 
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Wow Thanks for the info!!! I guess before i invest in a RO/DI unit i should check my water... That kinda makes me glad i use bottled jugs...
 
I'm half tempted to not use the membranes at all (no waist water) and just run sediment filters directly into 2 separate large resin beds (not mixed resin). Then I can recharge them at will.

I need to figure out the economics of doing it both ways and see what's going to be cheapest overall.

And to think, I have TDS of less then 80 but end up having the worst possible water to treat because of the municipality! As it stands right now within 100 gallons of water I've killed my 2 carbon filters and the membrane and have put a hurting on the DI resin.

I just made a change to my RO/DI unit for a few days until I figure out what I'm going to do long term. I pulled the all the canister and put a 5 micron sediment filter in the first canister and 3 DI resins in the remaining 3 canisters. At least I'll cover evap water for a few days. So I'm effectively running DI only (was all along basically anyway).
 
:) I am usually for the analythical quantitative aproach, but in this case I will stay with the empirical aproach: almost a year after I changed my RO (only 3 stages) filters and membrane, all my corals, fish and rest of micro and macro life in the tank is thriving and growing :)
 
Carlo said:
Further investigating and a few phone calls and I find out that my township doesn't add chlorine to the water but instead produces Chloramines. On top of this they add soda lime or sodium hydroxide (to prevent piping corrosion).



Before everybody goes calling their townships and local water processing, MOST, if not ALL, water treatment stations and plants have begun to use chloramine. This is why most LFSs worth a darn won't recommend Tetra water conditioners and dechlorinators anymore, since their ability to bind up or otherwise neutralize chloramine (as opposed to chlorine) is still questionable and has remained questionable as the integrity of Tetra products has severely declined over the last 10 to 20 years (but that discussion is best saved for another time!)

Sorry, Carlo, but you should have asked! I could have told you that you had a perhaps 90-95% chance of getting chloramine in your tap (since I believe pretty much all the water treatment facilities in NJ have switched to chloramine)
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
kathainbowen said:
I could have told you that you had a perhaps 90-95% chance of getting chloramine in your tap

So does this mean we just need to check our PH and double check that it is in the 7'ish range before breaking out in a full scale panic? And wouldn't this show on our TDS meters on the water coming out of the RO/DI?
 
kathainbowen said:
Carlo said:
Further investigating and a few phone calls and I find out that my township doesn't add chlorine to the water but instead produces Chloramines. On top of this they add soda lime or sodium hydroxide (to prevent piping corrosion).



Before everybody goes calling their townships and local water processing, MOST, if not ALL, water treatment stations and plants have begun to use chloramine. This is why most LFSs worth a darn won't recommend Tetra water conditioners and dechlorinators anymore, since their ability to bind up or otherwise neutralize chloramine (as opposed to chlorine) is still questionable and has remained questionable as the integrity of Tetra products has severely declined over the last 10 to 20 years (but that discussion is best saved for another time!)

Sorry, Carlo, but you should have asked! I could have told you that you had a perhaps 90-95% chance of getting chloramine in your tap (since I believe pretty much all the water treatment facilities in NJ have switched to chloramine)

This is an excellent point. I have only replaced my RO membrane filter once in about 8 years, and that was only because I wanted one of those high silica removal membrane filters. This was about 3 years ago. Even the old RO membrane would reduce the TDS reading from about 160 to 2. The new one would reduce the reading to about 1.

Also, if the RO membrane failed, you'd see an rapid increase in the TDS reading coming out of that stage, and you'd quickly deplete the DI part of the filter. In any case, you'd know it, because your output TDS reading would be high.
 
Phyl said:
So does this mean we just need to check our PH and double check that it is in the 7'ish range before breaking out in a full scale panic? And wouldn't this show on our TDS meters on the water coming out of the RO/DI?

Sorry if I sounded harsh. It's just that most water treatment facilities have been switching to chloramine since it tends to take longer to begin to break down and does not dissipate from the water before it reaches your faucet. It's also less likely for chloramine to convert organic materials into chloroform and carbon tetrachloride. Oh, oh! And chloramine doesn't leave the chlorine odor or taste in your water! It just has so many benefits compared to chlorine in the eyes of treatment facilities.

Actually an easier way as opposed to making sudden calls to your water treatment facilities and more than likely getting receptionists who will be dumber than a box of bricks when it comes to water content and composition, is to get a big, pure white bucket and fill it up with water from your tap. Water which has been treated with chloramine will have a slightly greenish hue in bulk, as opposed to the almost bluish hue of pure water or water which has been treated with chlorine.

From personal experience, making several calls to water treatment facilities and asking them what they put in the water tends to make anyone you live with start to look at you like a crazy, conspiracy theory nut ("Oh, nos! They're putting mind control drugs in our water systems! Along with chlorine and chloramine to keep our water safe and potable! Oh horrors!") But, also from personal experience, continued interest in local water treatment procedure and facilities will earn you a quick way to get on government watch lists (it's a long story, but I assure you, it was worth it for me)
 
Chloramines themselves aren't the problem. It's when you have a high pH > 8.3 AND the treatment plant uses sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide OR calcium oxide.

It's this combination that is the KILLER.

And wouldn't this show on our TDS meters on the water coming out of the RO/DI?

Nope, not really to any extent you could tell. Heck my TDS are < 80 at the tap but look at the mess I have.

Also, if the RO membrane failed, you'd see an rapid increase in the TDS reading coming out of that stage, and you'd quickly deplete the DI part of the filter. In any case, you'd know it, because your output TDS reading would be high.

Yes and No. Yes overall you will kill the membrane and start going through the DI faster. However, the DI isn't going to be trapping everything and dangerous stuff is getting past it. So it's not really a wait and see how fast I go through things to see if there is a problem. TDS can't check this. High quality test kits for ammonia, free & total chlorine (and others) are the easiest methods to use to check with, but a simple phone call to the municipality IMHO is worth it.

I'm not sure of the "conspiracy" theory of not calling the township. I simply told the guy right off I had a big RO/DI unit and was fouling membranes and carbon filters and my RO/DI provider asked me to call and check on a few treatment procedures at the plant so they could select the best filter package for my needs. The person I talked understood and got me all the info (and more) I needed.

Overall while many treatment facilities are/have switched to Chloramines, many are still using chlorine in NJ. Just knowing which they are using can help you pick the best filters for your RO. I would however suggest checking the pH of your tap water and seeing if it's over 8.2. If not no BIG problems.

Carlo
 
Carlo said:
I'm not sure of the "conspiracy" theory of not calling the township. I simply told the guy right off I had a big RO/DI unit and was fouling membranes and carbon filters and my RO/DI provider asked me to call and check on a few treatment procedures at the plant so they could select the best filter package for my needs. The person I talked understood and got me all the info (and more) I needed.

See, things didn't work out that easily for me. I had stopped watching the news to spare my optimism, and that just so happened to be around the time when either the government or the media (or both together) decided that scaremongering about terrorists coming after us through the water supply was a good thing. At the same time, there was an outbreak of giardia in Atlanta. I got into this huge mess after starting to make calls since all my test kits were showing no chloramine or chlorine in water from my tap. The mere mention of chemical quality, and I kept getting shooed off the phone. It was getting annoying, but, after a few weeks, things went back to normal and the chloramine readings started popping back up again on my test kits.

And, then, I started to get stopped at EVERY checkpoint at airports, my bags searched EVERY time. When a good friend heard what was going on, he asked his family lawyer to check into it for me, and found that I'd been put on a couple of watchlists for "persistant inquiry to water treatment facilities." After a year or two, the random screenings at the airport stopped.

It was amusing, but, like I said, I found it worth it. I hate to say it, but I'm not a conspiracy theory nut in that I think the government's out to get us all. I'm a conspiracy theory nut in that I think the government's too busy investigating and wasting time on people like me to be after all of us! :p

Like the TSA. Before this all happened, I was bringing back to Atlanta some gifts for my friends. The flight got delayed as the TSA was searching a passenger's luggage. I didn't find out until after we landed that the bag was mine. When I went to pick it up at the baggage claim, there was a nice man there, WITH my bag, ready to apologize to me for the mistake. They'd spotted one of the gifts in my bag to be suspicious (and a "potential threat") and opened it just to be safe. He reminded me that wrapping gifts or packages before flight was a bad idea; I thanked him and went on my way, a little perturbed. When I got in the car, curiosity got the better of me, so I opened up the bag to figure out which present was so threatening that it required TSA intervention. The Hello Kitty Sushi Stationary Set.




.... maybe I just have no luck, in retrospect. :p
 
I guess if I ever went through all that I wouldn't call it a conspiracy theory. Man talk about getting a hard time.

Oh btw, another good check to do is to test for ammonia in your RO output. It's better to check this pre DI. If it shows any ammonia then your type of carbon block isn't the best choice or your carbon cartridge is shot. Hey and you thought you would never use that ammonia test kit again! :)

Carlo
 
The problem with this type of test kit is that you can't tell if it's chlorine or Chloramines showing up in the test. You can also use a pool test kit for combined or total chlorine and free chlorine but again you don't know which form of "chlorine" is present.

However a simple test you can do it take 1 gallon of tap water and treat it with a product containing Sodium Thiosulfate (not sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate) and one that contains no ammonia binders. Couple of products that come to mind are:
Kent's Chlorinex, Seachem ChlorGuard, etc. Many times the package will tell you it's not effective against chloramines (half true) but only chlorine. I say half true because the reaction of sodium thiosulfate with chloramine produces ammonia. The ammonia then becomes the problem.

However for testing purposes this is GREAT. You can then test for ammonia after treating with sodium thiosulfate. If the level after dosing ST is higher then before the dose (do a test first) then you broke down chloramines instead of chlorine. The breakdown of chlorine with ST will NOT produce ammonia but breakdown of chloramines with ST WILL produce ammonia.

As far as the high pH condition mentioned earlier. If your tap water pH is above 8.2 then the water company is treating your water to make it more alkaline in NJ. It really doesn't matter how they treat it. It's only the fact that chloamines in high pH water is the problem.

But atleast you can find this out pretty easily with a home test kit we all pretty much have (ammonia) and an over the counter product available at most LFS or on many of our shelves.

Oh BTW, if you have pretty fresh carbon filters in your RO/DI unit they can in fact breakdown much of the chloamines in tap water if your not over about 8.4. However they foul quickly and only remove the "chlorine" part of the chloamines producing the leaving ammonia. Ammonia is not removed by carbon or the membrane since it's a gas and does make it through your RO/DI system.

I'm learning far more about this then anyone should ever have to know short of working for the water company. :)

Carlo
 
Carlo said:
The problem with this type of test kit is that you can't tell if it's chlorine or Chloramines showing up in the test. ...

This does not seem to be true.

Here is the text from the link I posted. "Compare Free Chlorine (pad nearest dipping hand) and Total Chlorine (end pad) to color chart. To determine Chloramine reading, subtract Free Chlorine reading from Total Chlorine reading. Readings should be 0.0."

Now obviously I wouldn't depend on an aquarium grade test kit to be perfect, but it will be close enough for what we are trying to do here.
 

Subliminal

NJRC Member
There's a whole FAQ section over on reefcentral about ro/di and it has a section on the chemicals you guys are talking about.
 
The problem with that approach Dave is that you can't tell if you have chlorine or chloramines. Either can be bound. You can however tell if you have neither.

That's why I suggested the ammonia test after using a detox product because it WILL show up that way as higher ammonia.

Carlo
 
Carlo said:
I'm half tempted to not use the membranes at all (no waist water) and just run sediment filters directly into 2 separate large resin beds (not mixed resin). Then I can recharge them at will.

I need to figure out the economics of doing it both ways and see what's going to be cheapest overall.

And to think, I have TDS of less then 80 but end up having the worst possible water to treat because of the municipality! As it stands right now within 100 gallons of water I've killed my 2 carbon filters and the membrane and have put a hurting on the DI resin.

I just made a change to my RO/DI unit for a few days until I figure out what I'm going to do long term. I pulled the all the canister and put a 5 micron sediment filter in the first canister and 3 DI resins in the remaining 3 canisters. At least I'll cover evap water for a few days. So I'm effectively running DI only (was all along basically anyway).

my dad has been doing this since 1993 for his water... he thinks its the most economical way :)
 
Top