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New 90 Gallon Reef setup. - Going to need alot of advice.
- Thread starter Freddybnj_2004
- Start date
I agree, go with a RO/DI which have a lot of positive feedback on forums. When I started, i went no name eBay cheap. I was never able to get to 0 TDS, I changed filters, played around with flow rate, added more add ons from the company. I finally gave up and bought a BRS, as it was less expensive as the spectrapure, but got very good reviews. Hooked it up, flushed it and zero TDS. If I had to buy a new one now it would probably be a spectrapure.
I would test out your current unit before doing anything. You can tell if the membrane is bad by testing the TDS before and after the membrane to test the rejection rate, this is VERY easy. If your membrane is indeed bad, I would buy the spectrapure refurb for around 120$. Mine is over 4 years old and still on the original membrane. If you want to save a few bucks order all new filters from spectrapure, I would still very far away from the RODI buddy, the filters are not a standard size and will cost more and not last as long.
Cool... I am still getting 150+ tds to 0..but the trickle of good water is Ike a drop or two a second which is what led me to ask the Lfs guy.... I'll look into specttrpure... and stay away from the buddy...thx
Are you getting enough pressure to the unit? If not I'd recommend a pressure booster
+1 A lot of things can effect flow rate and a booster pump can really help.
My pressure Guage is between 65-70 psi... is that not enough? I have a booster pump but haven't installed it yet...not sure how...
Your psi is fine, higher will improve your rejection rate tho. When is the last time you changed the carbon and sediment filters. They can clog
I took out all the filters to test the membrane... I was getting 60+ psi... my tds was 140+ to 0...but it was still trickling like 1-2 drops per second... that's not right is it?
Each membrane has a GPD 25/50/75/100 etc. Maybe it came with a 25 GPD membrane and with the cold weather it slows down even more? You don't have to replace the unit in any case you cold just replace the filter/RODI cartridge/and Membrane. Check to see which membrane you have if it is 25 GPD you might be on target, as stated before the filters can clog too so they are the easiest and cheapest to change out. PS TB Aquatics and Champion Lighting have very good prices on replacement filters.
I wanted to add one point to my first post. To test the RO membrane you need to test in, and out after the RO membrane but BEFORE the DI cartridge. Your RO membrane could be doing nothing and your DI media is sucking all the TDS up.
Ugh!! So frustrated... I can't get the last pieces right on the tank...I have a danner mag 9.5 it has a 3/4 mpt... I went to home Depot and they're telling me they don't have anything that will fit because the thread is a garden hose thread and it's out of season.... does any one please link the proper plumbing parts. I'm looking for something to screw onto the pump and allow a hose to slide on then on the other end I'm looking for a UTube into the tank.
I ordered two different u-tubes and have 3 different hoses and nothing works together. ..ugh!!!
I ordered two different u-tubes and have 3 different hoses and nothing works together. ..ugh!!!
I'm also looking for the ball valve to control the flow back to the tank
Wait one minute....a MAG 9.5 has NPT threading....national pipe thread. I've made this little things to convert NPT to "Hose" connection since I use Python hoses, which have "hose" threading. These converters are simply made with two pieces of CPVC fittings. Note, my local HD does not carry CPVC and I had to got to Lowes to get these. Here are the two pieces:
Here it is glued up:
And finally, on a MAG 9.5. Note I did have to rasp off some of the PVC on the one fitting to clear the pump.
And as far as a ball valve on the return pump, I would highly recommend not doing this. If the flow back to the DT it too great, tee off the return where you can put a valve (gate is ok) to control the flow going back to the sump. Restricting the MAG to the DT will prematurely kill the pump.
Here it is glued up:
And finally, on a MAG 9.5. Note I did have to rasp off some of the PVC on the one fitting to clear the pump.
And as far as a ball valve on the return pump, I would highly recommend not doing this. If the flow back to the DT it too great, tee off the return where you can put a valve (gate is ok) to control the flow going back to the sump. Restricting the MAG to the DT will prematurely kill the pump.
Makes sense on the tee... what size hose do you use to slip in that end... 1/2 id
Again, I use the Python hose to pump fresh saltwater into the tank. My guess is that it's 5/8 to 3/4 inch hose.
EDIT TO ADD: If you are talking about the tee, I'd use 3/4 pipe all around. Here is the tee I did on an older tank. Note the valve is out of the picture to the right.
Hey guys... a small update. I finally got the last of the plumbing done. I couldn't have done it without all of your help!!! Thank you all!!! I had the whole system tested and runnig for four + hours... no leaks and thanks to the valve on the tee the overflow and return are equal!!! I just finished emptying all the tap water and cleaning all the equipment. Tomorrow I start adding salt water... i think I might be ready for live sand/rock by Sunday!!!! Thanks again all!
Wooooohooooooo! 