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14K 175watt Metal Halide Bulb - Iwasaki

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Has any one used this bulb 14K 175watt Metal Halide Bulb - Iwasaki? I heard this bulb is very bright 8) with good color super white with a little blue.
I would need 3 175watt.
Any info would be great ;D
 
C

concept3

Guest
I think Sanjay Joshi tested that light out (he at least mentioned it during our December social)and he said it produced just as much PAR as some of the 250 watters out there (incl the 10K's). He even reccomended i drop down to the 175's on my tank which is 20 inches tall. I already had the 250 ballasts so i did not. He said it is a TRUE white with a slight tinge of blue, but most people still like to supplement actinics with it to give it that extra pop!
 
I have the Current USA model with two 14k 150W HQI and they claim in the box that the output is on par with dual 250W.....

I attached a picture
 

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Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
concept3.875 ,
Thank you for the info I think this will be my next lights to try out.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
lithivm said:
I have the Current USA model with two 14k 150W HQI and they claim in the box that the output is on par with dual 250W.....

I attached a picture
How do you like them? What was your old bulbs and how do they compare?
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Has any one seen them in action. Just wondering if they are worth the price?
Daniel
 
I'm a newbie so my opinion doesn't have much weight.... I like them better than the same wattage in PCs. I run them 8h and run 130W aticnics 4 hours before they come on and one hour after they shut off (the PCs are off while the MH are on)

The Current USA Fixture is really well made.
 
concept3.875 said:
I think Sanjay Joshi tested that light out (he at least mentioned it during our December social)and he said it produced just as much PAR as some of the 250 watters out there (incl the 10K's). He even reccomended i drop down to the 175's on my tank which is 20 inches tall. I already had the 250 ballasts so i did not. He said it is a TRUE white with a slight tinge of blue, but most people still like to supplement actinics with it to give it that extra pop!

Merv where did you see that about the bulbs? Do the 175w 14k Iwasaki give as much par as the 250's? I may have to try them if that's true, I was thinking of going with 250's on the 120, if these bulbs give as much par I'd rather do that than have a higher electric bill.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
mott768 said:
concept3.875 said:
I think Sanjay Joshi tested that light out (he at least mentioned it during our December social)and he said it produced just as much PAR as some of the 250 watters out there (incl the 10K's). He even reccomended i drop down to the 175's on my tank which is 20 inches tall. I already had the 250 ballasts so i did not. He said it is a TRUE white with a slight tinge of blue, but most people still like to supplement actinics with it to give it that extra pop!

Merv where did you see that about the bulbs? Do the 175w 14k Iwasaki give as much par as the 250's? I may have to try them if that's true, I was thinking of going with 250's on the 120, if these bulbs give as much par I'd rather do that than have a higher electric bill.
That is what I was thinking all so. I Just do not want a yellow looking water.
 
mott768 said:
concept3.875 said:
I think Sanjay Joshi tested that light out (he at least mentioned it during our December social)and he said it produced just as much PAR as some of the 250 watters out there (incl the 10K's). He even reccomended i drop down to the 175's on my tank which is 20 inches tall. I already had the 250 ballasts so i did not. He said it is a TRUE white with a slight tinge of blue, but most people still like to supplement actinics with it to give it that extra pop!

Merv where did you see that about the bulbs? Do the 175w 14k Iwasaki give as much par as the 250's? I may have to try them if that's true, I was thinking of going with 250's on the 120, if these bulbs give as much par I'd rather do that than have a higher electric bill.

So anyone have any thoughts on the above???
 
C

concept3

Guest
Here is an example with an Aqualine Buschke 10K


198_28_02_07_7_55_06.bmp




An exerpt taken from here, also by Sanjay:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/sj/index.php


A light source is basically a continuous source of photons, in our case converting electrical energy into visible photons. So when we characterize a light source, we are interested in determining how many photons it generates per unit of time. This is called its photon flux. These photons are generated and spread in all directions, and ultimately land on some object of interest (often in our case, the corals). A light source generates photons at a constant rate, and as we move away from the source, the photons will spread over a larger area, hence fewer photons land on the target area the further we move from the light source. We are interested in how many photons land on a given area, usually 1 meter square, and this number is called the photon density. Additionally, we are interested in the photons that are available for photosynthesis, which happen to be photons in the range 400-700nm (the same as visible light). These are called photosynthetic photons. These three entities of interest combine to comprise the Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD), which is a measure of the number of photons in the range of 400-700nm falling on a 1 meter square area per second. PPFD is a measure of Photosynthetically Available Radiation abbreviated as PAR. Recall from Part 1 that to generate 1 watt of power we would need 25.15 × 1017 photons/sec at 500nm. This is a lot of photons!!! Since we are dealing with a large number of photons, the number of photons are measured in units called micromoles (1 mole = Avogadro's number = 6.022 × 1023, hence 1 micromole = 6.022 × 1017). Hence the units of PPFD are micromoles/m2/sec, so, a PPFD of 1 corresponds to 6.022 × 1017 photons falling on a 1 meter square per second. In the aquarium hobby we often refer to light output in terms of PAR. Technically, this is incorrect. PAR is typically measured as PPFD.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Thank you for the info ;D It is hard to believe that a 175 watt lamp is just as bright as a 250 watt lamp :eek:
Now I just like to see it action.
Daniel
 
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