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Don't worry babe, The tank won't have any overflows so it can't flood.

Reluctantly gave up my last tanks during a series of moves, and although my wife (GF at the time) enjoyed them, she hated all the crap that went wrong. Like the time we were headed out on a date, but stopped by my apartment to pick some things up only to find the floor flooded and ended up cancelling our plans to deal with it.

So she finally gives me the go ahead to start the hobby up again, knowing how much I enjoy it. I decided to go with a nano, primarily for space and cost reasons, but also to minimize equipment and keep it simple until we have the space and can afford to build a really solid system.

I'm headed out of town tonight for a few days (job interviews, wish me luck). So I get the float switches from DA for the RKL. Set it up last night and tested several times and all seems fine, other than the fact that the MJ900 running it is a bit of overkill as I have a 4x6x8.5" skimmer box and it doesn't take much evaporation/top-off to trigger the switch, so I probably need to dail that back or use a smaller pump. Anyways, I was very comfortable with the way it was working and made quite the effort to show my wife how well setup everything was and that we shouldn't have any issues.

Sitting on the sofa watching tv this morning before heading to work. I hear the ATO kick on, and go over to check on it and make sure everything is running as planned. CRAP, water is at the top of the frame and rising. CRAP CRAP CRAP, water is now on the floor. Quickly unplug the pump. Not sure what is going on, as the float is up, and should have cut the water.

Pull the feed line out of the tank and put it in a bucket. Manually trigger the switch and it kicks on, release it and it keeps running. Wondering if I have some weird setup that defys physics and allows the water to keep running. The RKL headunit shows that the ATO pump isn't getting power, but can feel the vibrations from the pump running through the feed line. hmmm. unplug the pump and plug it back in, and it stays turned off. Using the headunit, manually turn on the pump, let it run for a few seconds, and then turn it off with the headunit. Headunit is showing 0.00 for the plug meaning it isn't getting power, yet the pump continues to run.

Not sure why the failure on this, have contacted DA and hoping to hear back soon. Was quite excited about this controller and how it should make this a well automated tank with minimal chances for problems, yet I managed to already screw that one up. Oh well, such is the life of reefing I guess.
 
It is a little tricky getting the controller right. I would suggest buying a second switch (and maybe a third) that would be normally closed so if the tank floods it will kill the circuit.

This was from the DA forum. Basically in order to turn on it would have to have all three switches closed. Also I would use a small top off pump like a toms aqualifter. Plug it into the 1 or 4 port on the PC4.

Topoffcircuit.jpg
 
Yeah I was thinking of something like this. Original thoughts were to have the kill switch on the tank, but the low level indicator in the top-off container sounds good too. Didn't set this up due to limited time and fact that I wasn't sure how to run multiple switchs to control a single outlet, but I'll look into this.

Thanks for the heads up on the aqualifter, I'll check that out as well.

Unfortunately, no time to fix before I head out of town, so I'll probably top off and minimize lighting cycle to limit evap and should be in ok shape. Not what I'd prefer but the best (or at least the safest solution at the moment).
 
Good new is that there appears to be an easy fix.

Apparently differnt switching mechanisms are used in different sockets. The socket I was using can remain open with certain types of devices, depending on the power draw. Sounds like this should be an non-issue if I plug into a different socket.

Must say that Digital Aquatics customer service is top-notch.
 
That has to do with the relay in the pc4. Outlets 1 and 4 are different. I would also make sure that you have the head unit programmed correctly. It took me a few tries until I got it right.
 
Not sure if this applies but if you have an all in one kind of setup, make sure that the chamber housing your return pump does not fall below minimum level while your're gone.
 
If you put the low indicator on bottom of the top off tank to kill the pump it sounds like a pain. If you have it filled all the way and indicator on bottom, won't it still flood the tank if the pump stays on? If you put it mid way and water falls below it then the pump won't kick on even though there's plenty of water in top off? Or are you doing something different than I'm thinkin?
 
You would want to make something that holds the switch at the bottom. It is nice because your pump won't run dry. Also set an alarm for the low float in the refill and it will make it easy to know when to fill it.
 
Had trouble setting my ATO with RKL before. I went to the DA forums and got it resolved quickly. The folks over there are great!
 
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