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Lighting decisions

Looking for some guidance here.

Will be starting a 20H nano at some point in the near future and wanted to begin planning my equipment. I think everything is pretty straight-foward on this with the one possible exception being lighting options. I'm pretty much committed to going T5 (4 x 24") on this one to keep heat to a minimum, but I'm unsure what ballast (HO vs VHO) is the best bet.

I am currently planning on going zoas, rics, and perhaps some LPS (always a fan of b. wellsi and some favia). My initial thought is to go with the 4 x 40W icecap retrofit, but now I am wondering if having that much light would be too much for the LPS. Alternatively I could go with 4 x 24W (also electronic ballast but not overdriven like IC), but I am wondering if this enough light to get the best color out of zoas.

I've looked at some of the nanos of the month on RC and it seems like some of these guys are all over the place on the level of light they are running.

I'm probably over-analyzing all of this, but appreciate any guidance. I think the other factor is that the 4 bulb HO T5-retro will run about $200 less than the 4 bulb icecap retro.
 
i think you answered your own question-
"I've looked at some of the nanos of the month on RC and it seems like some of these guys are all over the place on the level of light they are running"

i would say that the lowest light that someone is successful with, who is using a tank like the one you are considering, is the correct lighting.
if a 20h is 16" tall, you are going to have to keep that dimension on your mind while choosing. i think the HO t-5's should work fine.
 
Figure 4W per gallon will let you keep about anything. So 4X24W is great for you. I have T5s on my 120 8x48W and have good growth from SPS to clam to LPS to Zoas. I have SPS up top then just figure lighting needs and place accordingly. I have derasa clam on the sand and with only occasional spot feedings it is doing great.
 

mnat

Officer Emeritus
Staff member
Moderator
If you go look at the Nanos section under Her 20g you will see our 20g high. We run a 4x24 T5 system on that tank and could not be happier. We have some SPS high up and LPS and zoas all over the tank. When we lost our AC for a week, we lost nothing in the 20g. We had one head of a candy cane bleach but it is already getting the color back. The growth in the zoas and LPS has been great. We have three tanks up right now one with PCs, one with T5s and one with MH and when we upgrade I have a strong feeling we are going to go T5s.

Here is the thread

http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=16336.0
 
good to hear. On my 40G breeder (sold 3 years ago) I was running a 250MH and 2 VHO actinics. Worked great for SPS/clams, but think it cause a purple favia I had to really lose its color, hence my not wanting to go with too much light.

Think the non-overdriven would be nice too, as from my reading (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) I shouldn't need to run fans to cool the bulbs, which should help minimize heat transfer to the tank and keep everything simpler.
 
No my lights don't have fans ... if overdriven I think you have to ... lights will warm the tank though I am running a fan now to drop the temp a bit.
 
The last thing you want is heat issues, and they're easy to get on the smaller tanks. If it weren't for fans my fish would be fried!
 
The tank and equip has been ordered. Will be picking up the tank on tues and the next order of business will be building the canopy to house the lights.

I ended up going with 4x24W T5 from reefgeek. My next question is, how far from the surface of the water should I be mounting these guys?

Thanks
Jeff
 

mnat

Officer Emeritus
Staff member
Moderator
I agree with Nick, we have them on the mounting legs that came with the lights which only sit maybe 3-4 inches over the tank. Our lights have a splash guard but that is something to think about. The T5s don't put out heat like the MH so you don't need to have them as high.
 
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