RO 1 more try

[MadReefer]

After speaking with other members and checking out thier setup I belive it was hooked up incorrcetly. So, I have a red tube which goes from the faucet to one of the large vertical chambers on the end. The orange tube has a switch which I think is the waste water and the blue one should be the good water. Does this sound correct? The orange tube with switch open has much water flowing through it and the blue has fast drops. Just want to be sure so I can do a nice water change this week and hopefully be on the right track for a change. All comments welcomed and I will try and get a pic up.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Phyl]

Your description of the outputs (fast=waste and slow=good water) sounds right on. What is the TDS of the water coming out of that blue line? Should start around 50ish (depending on how bad your water going in is) and over the course of a few hours drop down to 0. We ran ours for a while before we saw 0.

 

[MadReefer]

Phyl,
Thanks for responding. I was concerned the waste flow was very fasy compared to the good water. That is the 1 thing I need to purchase, a TDS meter. Just want to ensure it is setup correct first. Here is a pic of the setup; I plan to hook up under the kitchen sink in a few weeks after I replace the sink.

Mark

 

[JohnS_323]

That set up looks right.

 

[MadReefer]

Hooray!!! It only took 2 months to figure it out. Geez..

 

[stcreef]

Only question I have is what is he white filter the blue line is coming from. The brown filter with blue endcaps is the DI cartridge. If the white one is a carbon block, you want to remove that. You only want that for drinking purposes. If its a second DI cartridge, then its fine.

 

[Phyl]

I think it says something about taste on it (at least mine does). We want to take that off? What good would a second DI do for us?

 

[stcreef]

If it says taste on it, you want to remove it. Its is a carbon filter that will put some minerals back in the water to "improve" the taste of pure RO/DI water (since there will be ~0 ions in it). The only time you want to use it is if you are using your RO/DI for human consumption. But for our tanks, DO NOT USE IT.

As for your other question about a second DI. You can stage your DI filters just like the pre filters. By using two DI's in series, you can maximize their use. The first stage will do most of the work, the second will catch any residual. As the first depletes, the second will have a long way to go. Take out the first and disgaurd, put the second DI in the firsts place and put a new DI in the second place. This will extend the life of the DI cart.

OR

As in my situation, I have a high silica content in my ground water. So I use a two stage DI system. The first DI cart has a high silica removal rate and the second is a standard DI cart. If I were to only use a standard DI cart by itself, it would deplete in about 200-300 gallons. Although it would show 0 tds, there would still be a high silica level in the water. Phyl if you are using well water where you are, I would test the silica content. This Jersey sand is for the birds ---- and not the fishys.

 

[stcreef]

One other thing I noticed in the pic. You commented that the waste water is fast compared to the RO. That maybe because the flush valve is in the on position. Close the valve for normal operation. You will see the waste water slow at that point. Only open it to flush the membrane.

 

[Hawkeye]

i could lend you my tds meter. You have to give it back or I'll come by your desk and bug you.

 

[Phyl]

Not well water (but thank you)... should I test the source for silica anyway or is this not likely to be a problem with "city water"? Where did you get the high removal of silica DI resin?

 

[stcreef]

Its Spectrapure's Silica Buster cart. Seems to be doing the job. But I have to see how long it actually lasts. Been in service for about a month now with no problem. I do find that after a heavy rain, my silica level in my well water goes thru the roof for about a week.

 

[MadReefer]

Thanks everyone for the great advise. STCREEF, I should close the waste valve all the way when producing the RO, correct? Phil, yes I would like to borrow your TDS meter. Thanks

The white thing on top saye for taste and odor reduction. If I decide not to use it where do I connect the blue hose in my previous pic?

Mark

 

[stcreef]

I should close the waste valve all the way when producing the RO, correct?

Yes the valve should be closed when producing RO water. It has a built in restrictor that will bypass the valve when closed creating the back pressure required for the membrane to operate properly. But you should open the valve periodically for a few minutes during and at the end of making RO water to flush the membrane. This will increase the life of the membrane.

Someone used to make an automatic flusher. Can't seem to find one.