Brian and David,
I understand where your concerns are coming from. I had thought about that particular issue and thought I had it figured out. If you don't mind, I will run through the baffling setup a little more in detail and explain my thought process a little more in detail. From there, let's see if the thought process makes sense, if it doesn't let's figure out a solution to resolve the issue. So, let's delve into some baflling baffles.
Here is the baffle layout (from left to right):
Baffle 1 = over (not functioning as intended, due to bad thought process, though now it will function as a holder for the screen I am going to make, will post pics a bit later when the LFS opens and I make the screen), 6 inches high
Baffle 2 = under (not functioning as intended, due to bad thought process), 6 inches high, raised 1 inch from floor: total height=13 inches (2 6 inch baffles, 1 1 inch gap)
Baffle 3 = split, (from the floor) bottom piece=6 inches; gap=1 inch; top piece=3 inches
Baffle 4 = over, 12 inches in height. Compartment holds roughly 3.4 gallons of water at total height (reefcentral tank size calc). Dimensions of compartment from side in picture: 5.5 inches wide x 11.75 inches deep x 12 inches high.
The split in Baffle 3 actually places the water level in the fuge at 6 inches, though I think I probably should have located the split in Baffle 4 but I'm not positive. Just after Baffle 3 is the fuge. This would be the first point of failure if blockage were to occur. Most likely what would happen is that if this were to block, the water would rise to over 13 inches and spill over in the fuge. The time it would take between spill over and the pump running dry should be minimal. Blockage is not likely due to the fact that the split run the entire width of sump.
The second point of failure would be total blockage of Baffle 4. Again not a likely scenario, as the baffle runs the entire width of the tank, 11 3/4 inches. If a blockage did occur, the water level would most likely rise. The water would only have to rise a half inch before Baffle 3 is under water. Also, if a partial blockage occured the pump would run dry depending on the severity of the blockage. Since this will be the refugium, a blockage of that severity would be unlikely or am I missing something.
The third point of failure (actually the first) would be that the overflow clogs. In this case, yes, the pump would run dry, however, it is cheaper to replace a $89 pump than to replace $700 to $1,000 worth of flooring, furniture, computer equipment, drywall, etc. I would much rather have the pump burnout than have a flood in the house. So in this case that is to my advantage.
The evap rate looks like it's going to be a gallon to 1.5 gallons per week, maybe a bit more, since I don't have the halides up yet. However, being that the tank is next to my computer (which I rarely leave while I'm home lol I will see the level getting low. I should probably figure out the exact evap rate but I'm not overly good at math lol.
I think I have covered my thought process and baffle details as complete and in depth as possible. If I missed something please let me know, as I would really like to make sure that I am thinking this whole thing through thoroughly. There may be a flaw in my thinking, which is quite likely lol, if so, I want to correct it ASAP. Thanks so much for the input, you guys, it has really helped me to make sure that I am thinking things all the way through.
Thanks so much for the input!!!!!!!!!!!
Tom
BTW how long can a Mag pump run dry? I checked the Danner website and couldn't find info.
I understand where your concerns are coming from. I had thought about that particular issue and thought I had it figured out. If you don't mind, I will run through the baffling setup a little more in detail and explain my thought process a little more in detail. From there, let's see if the thought process makes sense, if it doesn't let's figure out a solution to resolve the issue. So, let's delve into some baflling baffles.
Here is the baffle layout (from left to right):
Baffle 1 = over (not functioning as intended, due to bad thought process, though now it will function as a holder for the screen I am going to make, will post pics a bit later when the LFS opens and I make the screen), 6 inches high
Baffle 2 = under (not functioning as intended, due to bad thought process), 6 inches high, raised 1 inch from floor: total height=13 inches (2 6 inch baffles, 1 1 inch gap)
Baffle 3 = split, (from the floor) bottom piece=6 inches; gap=1 inch; top piece=3 inches
Baffle 4 = over, 12 inches in height. Compartment holds roughly 3.4 gallons of water at total height (reefcentral tank size calc). Dimensions of compartment from side in picture: 5.5 inches wide x 11.75 inches deep x 12 inches high.
The split in Baffle 3 actually places the water level in the fuge at 6 inches, though I think I probably should have located the split in Baffle 4 but I'm not positive. Just after Baffle 3 is the fuge. This would be the first point of failure if blockage were to occur. Most likely what would happen is that if this were to block, the water would rise to over 13 inches and spill over in the fuge. The time it would take between spill over and the pump running dry should be minimal. Blockage is not likely due to the fact that the split run the entire width of sump.
The second point of failure would be total blockage of Baffle 4. Again not a likely scenario, as the baffle runs the entire width of the tank, 11 3/4 inches. If a blockage did occur, the water level would most likely rise. The water would only have to rise a half inch before Baffle 3 is under water. Also, if a partial blockage occured the pump would run dry depending on the severity of the blockage. Since this will be the refugium, a blockage of that severity would be unlikely or am I missing something.
The third point of failure (actually the first) would be that the overflow clogs. In this case, yes, the pump would run dry, however, it is cheaper to replace a $89 pump than to replace $700 to $1,000 worth of flooring, furniture, computer equipment, drywall, etc. I would much rather have the pump burnout than have a flood in the house. So in this case that is to my advantage.
The evap rate looks like it's going to be a gallon to 1.5 gallons per week, maybe a bit more, since I don't have the halides up yet. However, being that the tank is next to my computer (which I rarely leave while I'm home lol I will see the level getting low. I should probably figure out the exact evap rate but I'm not overly good at math lol.
I think I have covered my thought process and baffle details as complete and in depth as possible. If I missed something please let me know, as I would really like to make sure that I am thinking this whole thing through thoroughly. There may be a flaw in my thinking, which is quite likely lol, if so, I want to correct it ASAP. Thanks so much for the input, you guys, it has really helped me to make sure that I am thinking things all the way through.
Thanks so much for the input!!!!!!!!!!!
Tom
BTW how long can a Mag pump run dry? I checked the Danner website and couldn't find info.
