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Marks...Back to the Future..Reef Aquarium

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hey just wondering why its called back to the future? lol

I had a fish only salt tank in the 80's and now I'm back in the future.,,,the technology has gone crazy...:)

from opening post:

My Personal History As a kid I always had fresh water tanks at different stages of growing up. (I still haven't grown up btw, ask my wife and kids).
In the 80's when I finally had my own home the tanks returned. I had a nice 125 gallon salt water setup in the wall and ran it for many years with a fair amount of success. Compared to the technology now, it was the stone age. (Hence my Back to the Future thread title) I used under-gravel filters with air pumps, a hanging Superking filter, heater hanging in the corner, dolomite as a substrate. I bought the tank for $119, built the stand with 2x4's and 3/4 plywood. Used a $10 shop light with 4 foot aquarium bulbs. Used dead coral, lava rock which I still have in the basement. So for a couple of hundred dollars I had at the time a very nice tank. Oh and lots of green algae!
 
As I'm getting close to scaping, my goal is to copy this one from an aquascaping thread on RC:

cpfarm.jpg


I like the idea of an angled opening fading to the back.
 

kschweer

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It may work. I would personally just use a wood cutting hole saw for acrylic. No need for a diamond bit. Just go slow. Too fast and it will get too hot and start melting the acrylic.
 
It may work. I would personally just use a wood cutting hole saw for acrylic. No need for a diamond bit. Just go slow. Too fast and it will get too hot and start melting the acrylic.

I just found a wood hole saw on the cheap...thanks for the advise.
 
One important thing is to drill frome both sides. Start drying frome one side and go in material about 1/8 to 1/4 inch and then finish hole frome other side that prevent chips in acrylic upon hollsaw exit. And u can go full spid ahed ther is not gona be any malting like stated above.
 
Have some stupid questions:

I'll be plumbing soon and was wondering the best way to test and get ready for scaping. I prefer to test with fresh water in case of leaks during the test. But will need to remover water in order to scape. Don't want to waste 250 gallons of RO/DI and concerned about high TDS tap water leaving behind Pho food.

Do you guys scape with the tank totally dry or with some water?

During the cycle I plan on going dark for one month, I understand this helps the scape get a beneficial coat of film (bacteria), that reduces algae problems etc. Whats your thoughts?

Any suggestions on plumbing, scaping, cycling I'm listening...I do plan on dry fitting everything first...:)
 
Question?

I've been cooking a bunch of dry rock for a few months and even with decent salt water changes (temp in high 70's) the phosphate is still running 2.60 on the Hanna.

Is this acceptable or am I looking for 0+ like in a display tank?

thanks!
 
What was the source of the rock? Did you etch it (vinegar/acid) before starting the curing process?

I did a scrubbing and vinegar soak initially. The rock came from an old tank and was sitting in a friends garage for a long time. It looks really clean now, but the phosphate stays above 2.5
 
It is much easier to combat phosphates while cooking, then algae in the tank. I would not even think about adding it to the tank before it is close to zero.

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It is much easier to combat phosphates while cooking, then algae in the tank. I would not even think about adding it to the tank before it is close to zero.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

I have been cooking this rock since February. I'm not going to use it. I have some BRS reefsaver and now will look to buy some better rock. I hear Marco is pre cured.
 
Phosphate won't naturally lower. It needs to be exported. Have you been doing large water changes?

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TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
You may also want to try adding a phosphate reactor to the rock tank. Might help lower it a bit faster.
 
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