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Or get a drilled tank. The standard 75g drilled tank is < $250 including all the plumbing and tax. 30g tank is perfect for a sump that can fit under a 75g stand.

Thanks. Do I need to bleach the rock after removing the bubble algae? Some of them are deep in the crevices of the rock and I am almost positive they'll burst.

I tested again. First I verified that my refractometer is calibrated and the salinity is exactly 35 ppt. The result is basically the same as yesterday. When I use the 1 ml syringe there is always about 0.2 ml of air between the liquid and the plunger. I read the number from the plunger. But I...

What is the green bubble in the middle and the purple tip on the rock?

I did. The Ca test used up the whole 1.0ml. I will test again tomorrow. Gotta watch the game :)

I use 1.026 calibration fluid. It's a BRS refractometer.

07733. Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

Let me correct myself. I use a brand new red sea test kit. SG is tested using a refractometer. I use half cup/gallon of instant ocean and the SG should be close. Will test again tomorrow. The mg is high corresponding to the other high readings. Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

Today I tested my water for the first time. I use IO and Seachem foundation test kit. The water is new mixed two days ago. Salinity : 35 ppt CA = 500 ppm (it's the max the test kit can detect but the color did change almost completely) Kh = 11.8 dKh Mg = 1540 ppm I tested carefully...

I have some dried live rock. As seem in the picture but also there is more not in the picture. Should be enough for a 75g tank. Free.

It's a freshwater LED. I only use it when I work on the sump.

BTW, do I need to run a light in the refugium if I don't put cheato in there? I mean will the stuff on the live rock die without any light at all? Also, would biopellets a better option than cheato for nitrate removal?

In case the fish are still available, I might be able to take them. I think my tank is cycled. I am building a 75g and here's the build thread. I have nothing in the tank right now. http://www.njreefers.org/showthread.php?83099-Joe-s-Really-Slow-Progressing-Build

Tanks is filled. I have the rock in the 40g breeder for 1 week tonight I moved everything in the DT. I think the tank is cycled as there is no ammonia/nitrite and I've been feeding the rock a few pellets a day. The phosphate level is fairly low I will be start monitoring the numbers to get...

I've been doing a little research looks like Caribsea Fuji Pink does not cause as much a sand storm as other sand and it's a fine sand that I like. Will the reef flakes, especially the mini, have problem with high flow SPS tanks?

The rocks are already cycled. I got it from spotter so the rock never left the water. I kept the rocks in a 40g breeder and there is no bad smell etc. Sure there is some die off but not a lot like shipped rock. I am think instead of cycling the rocks in the breeder tank and get all the water...

Please educate me. I have live rocks being cured and plan to buy some live sand. Which one do I put down first in the DT? For example, should I put in Live Sand first then salt water, wait for dust to settle then put in live rock? Or cycle the rock then put in the sand?

Congrats on the build. Subscribed. Tropic Eden Mini/Reef Flakes* - how many lbs would you order for this size tank? Do you plan on putting in the sand while cycling the tank with rock?

I will take some if no one else has claimed yet. Thanks a lot. Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

Hi, Would you be at the swap? Would you do $150? Just need a cheap light until I decide on the led. Thanks, Joe Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2