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we have girls 13 and 15 and it's a traumatic time for us adults. i never imagined how much one person could argue about absolutely nothing.

I'm to a fault a proponent of natural looking tanks. I think most folks feel the other way and go for a practical configuration. One of the most important aspects of keeping it natural IME is to mix coral and fish sizes. Too much fragging works against this approach, and instead there can be...

Keeping pH to around 8.1 to 8.3 is optimum and it's according to experts it's better off in that range b/c that's what it is on the reef. But that said, there are plenty of systems where it's maintained around 7.8 and it's OK.

or sell it

You can't go wrong with either. If it was me, I'd do the MH/T5 with 175w 6500k Iwasakis, and on the T5s with one 10k and three actinics. It's all preference.

Any oxygen you're getting into the house is being drafted thru the stove. We heat with wood also and have the same thing. But most folks' systems, whether they burn wood or not need to tube in fresh outside air to their venturi skimmer tube to raise pH in Winter when windows are shut...

To my understanding, dosing like that will not pull pH uphill and against the momentum/chemistry of the tank. IMO you'll need to bring in Oxygen from outdoors (if not doing so already) and that should get you up to 8.1 or so at the low point of the day. Dosing won't compensate more than...

pm'd -

There's a bunch of them in Philly and they'll do it there while you wait. I just don't recall names but easy to look up.

I think Duncans are deeper water relatively. But this entire topic is beyond my level of knowledge. I've just picked up the basic from reading experts like Bob Fenner. I run Iwasaki 6500s on MH for growth and add blue florescent as needed - and now am transitioning to LEDs in the same config...

The sun is around 5,500 to 6,000 on the kelvin side, and 100 on the color rendering side, so as your average moves away from those values, there will be less benefits that are derived from the sun type light. The blues are pretty far away on both scales. If you have stuff needing true sun...

Yes on the rock rubble. I can come by Monday after work after 9pm weather permitting. Dave

We put a sailfin in with a yellow and it was trouble for a few days but then was fine. At worse case, when you move everyone to the new tank I'm pretty sure the change and going in together will diffuse any aggression. Any update on ETA for the tank?

I agree there with Calcium is high and it's holding Alk down. Shoot for 380-400. If you do some water changes and the new salt mix is lower in Calcium than the 465 it'll bring the Ca lower, and bring the Mg lower. I know regular Instant Ocean is on the lower end of Calcium - depends which mix...

Sounds like it may need a cleaning, or less likely broken impeller. If you take the cap off where the water goes in and, either unscrew the thing-a-ma-jig or just pull the impeller out - it looks like a paddle wheel - then soak it in water and part vinegar and clean it up well.

ah yes, skimming during a cycle defeats it by taking away the stuff that's supposed to feed the ammonia eating bacteria. there you go.

very sweet, can't wait to see this new and uniquely-Matt footprint.

Ours only eats pods that are in the system, like the mandarin, and he won't even eat black worms. I agree with the above poster that a good practice would probably be to put them in a separate tank for a while and get them eating what you feed and on your schedule. I think one of the points is...

IMO there are two purposes of the fuge, (1) a benefit to the system as a "refugium," and (2) a benefit to the reefer because he/she is interested in what goes on in the refugium. If a person doesn't have the number #2 interest benefit, I don't think the #1 practical benefit is enough to sustain...

I'm a refugium lover, and believe the best place to have one is above the level of the DT, draining down, or the 2nd best place is above the sump, draining into it. IMO try to avoid using a chamber in the sump if possible.