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Just saw your WTB for the 75 gallon for a sump. I think this is a good choice and will better handle the volume of water passing through the sump. Not to mention that it will easily fit into that new stand you have. :grin:

Note to self: Report Brian to the IRS…..and collect a reward! :devilish: New house, new kid, new tank, and now new (over-priced) LED lights. How is he affording this? :o Brian, congratulations on all you recent acquisitions. :grin:

Estes sand is actually a resin coated gravel......from their literature: "All Estes products are clear coated, using 100% environmentally friendly high gloss resin. This state of the art process makes their gravel virtually dust free, and provides the best possible appearance and ease of use in...

Edwin, your water-loss numbers are unacceptable! You have “standard” tanks with behemoth overflows. Raise your LocLine returns so they are close to the surface, or install siphon breaks. Both tanks should drop about an inch (or less), which calculates to 5 gallons for the 120, and 2.8...

Ouch! Sorry for your mini flood and fried IceCap…..but actually it’s great seeing that you are still alive……..Haven’t heard from you in a while. Welcome back John! Actually all the Glass-Holes folks have to watch out for a similar thing….the breather tube blocking up. The difference is...

I'd go for the 1050's. There is no such thing as too much flow.

Insufficient information. Need to know a couple things to answer this question. How big is your DT? How deep are the return lines and is there a siphon break (and how deep is that break)? How big is the Sump and what are the dimensions of each section? You can also get a little more...

Yes....more water volume.

I would make the baffles as high as you can to maximize the water volume in the sump. You want to leave enough room to allow back-wash water coming back into the sump when the pump is turned off. As mentioned, just build a shelf for the skimmer to reach the ideal depth. Here’s my sump (40...

The 12:00 news just stated that only one tanker ruptured and that all the monomer has dissipated. The remaining derailed cars are intact. What gets me is that this is the second time this same bridge has collapsed!

Just placed the order with BRS….for the pump and power supply. Also cashed in the 1771 reward points I had for an addition $17.71 off…..sweet!

Paul, glad to see you're coming back.

I’m kicking around the idea of installing a booster pump to my RO/DI unit and wanted to get opinions. I know absolutely nothing about them. What’s your experience with using them? Who makes a good one? Which ones should I stay away from? Are there any maintenance issues you have with...

Yep! Just slightly higher dissolved solids.

+1 House systems typically have a three gallon to five gallon reservoir that holds the water until used. No problem with RO, but as stated, DI water is totally stripped....recommend not drinking.

Wow Chris….I like your father-in-law. Very nice rail to hold the lights. I’ve got old-school, non dimable Apollo’s and I’m very happy. You’ll be delighted with the newer dimable versions. Keep the pictures coming.

George, looking real good. I always like seeing actual build pictures, so keep the pictures coming. My comments have to do with the build instructions on RC. The stand plans they have show four more “legs” on each of end portions of the stand. Here’s the picture showing the additional...

What are your alk and calc numbers….and what do you do to maintain alk and calc? Assuming you don’t have a CO2 problem, proper alk and calc numbers will maintain proper pH. Also, if you “cook” the baking soda at 300 for an hour, it will be more effective in raising pH….but do it slowly...

Good stuff Ed! Congratulations.

I’m aging myself, but as Edith Ann would say, “PPTHHPTHPFFTHPPPT!!!....and that's the truth!” :grin: