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Malulu's thread explains this pretty perfectly. Your LFS should sell an acclimation kit which is essentially a piece of airline tubing attached to a shaped piece of plastic, keeping the drip line from slipping out of tank and negating the need for the veggie clip. I got mine from Trop for about...
i understand, my fiancee is the coral guy- i like it, but i'm more into the fishies. How has the blue tang done in the 28G? I have wanted one badly for years, but have not purchased...
Very nice, love the close up of the coral. How long has it been up and running? What is on your stock list, I could not pick out any fishies from the pictures
We are having a bad two weeks.... We lost the squammie last week to a blue leg hermit crab that i found INSIDE of it, eating it from the inside out, and then we lost the my favorite fish, the flame on Sunday.
I am not sure what happened, we noticed a gouge on his side on sunday evening, and by...
With the summer coming and the fact we are taking our honeymoon in October we were thinking about adding an ATO unit to our 30 g tank. The tank has a 250w MH pendant and an open top so evaporation has been a problem. Also, if we add a fan I know this will add to evaporation. I have been looking...
How are you introducing the shrimp to the tank? I would recommend a drip acclimation or something similiar as they are very sensitive to changes in temp, salinity, and PH. I am not 100% sure on this as I have never owned a wrasse, but I do know some species will eat shrimp.
A phyto culture is similiar to a brine culture. You need some phyto to start put it is some salt water with an airstone and a light on them. Eventually the water will turn green, and you have your own phyto culture. You can get into different strains of phyto if you want to get really technical...
1st make sure your test kit is accurate. A lot of panic can occur because a testing kit is old or didn't give an accurate reading. If this is the case, do a larger water change than normal, this is an easy way of bringing PH down.
What happens is as the bulbs get older they start to put out more of a red spectrum which algae loves. You cannot see that spectrum, so you should just replace the bulbs on a steady schedule
Did you think of adding an angel? It could be added before the tang as far as aggression level goes. The only thing would be to make sure the tank is up long enough to have algae for the angel. With a 90 g tank you could pick some beautiful fish.
If cost is an issue, buy a 10g tank from petco for like 10 bucks and slap on some pc lights. If you are only doing shrooms and softies in that tank, you don't need strong lighting. Just hook that tank up to the main system and viola, you have a new frag tank.
On our 20g we have T5 lights, we never intended on doing sps in that tank so we went with those. We currently have zoas, mushrooms, and LPS in there and they are all doing fine. We really noticed a bump in growth when we added the T5 bulbs and have been very happy with them.
If you can't do both, it depends on what you are looking for. In my opinion, and I have only been to each 1-2 times, AO has a better fish selection while OGII has a better all around selection. Others might disagree with me, but if I wanted new corals, I am going to OGII.
As concept3 wrote, different clams have different lighting needs. The other variable is positioning, maximas and croceas are usually placed higher up where they attach to the rockwork while deresas and squamosas are placed down on the sand bed. Also, how old is your tank? They usually recommend...
My fiancee refuses to touch them anymore after her hand went numb after moving some around. I now do everything, just make sure to wash my hands afterwards.
From the advice of Austin at Trop we have been dosing our food with Vitamin C for a while now. The theory behind it is that it helps corals heal faster when they split which leads to more growth. I have zoas in my tank and they are doing great, I don't know if it is the Vitamin C or something...