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Glad to see you are finally going to start doing things the right way. God only knows that you've been screwing around for the last 40 years, so it's about time. Looking forward to the improvements in your tank....not that septic tank sewer that you have right now. :grin:

Or at least no deeper then your saw-teeth.

Thanks for the powerhead.....what a beast.

NO! The two are separate. Yes, the drain will stop once the water level in the DT hits the bottom of the teeth. However, your return line is separate from the drain and will not stop siphoning until it gets an air break. You can do that with a siphon break or keep at least one of your...

Actually with a manifold, you've already "tee'd" off your return. If your return flow is too great, just direct one of the manifold tees back to the sump......you all set!

How big is the sump? And what return pump are you using? And is there a refugium in your sump?

One more note as I look at this picture of my sump. If I were doing this today, I would eliminate the valves on the drain lines. I never turn them off.....just a waste. The original thought was that I'd turn them off when doing maintenance to keep water from coming down from the DT...

I would not recommend metering your return by simply putting a valve in the return line. Most pumps do not take kindly to being metered this way. Another way of doing this is to tee off your return line and return this to your sump. Put a valve on this tee'd off line to now meter the...

On mine I did not put in a valve.....no need. Only have a union in case I need to take it apart.

I will take the second.....and I can pick up right now. PM sent.

That's pretty funny....but true. Unbeknownst to my wife and I, we ended up in San Diego a couple years ago during Comic Con. Believe me, it was just like that video. We went out to eat one night and they wouldn't seat just two of us unless we "accepted" a single from Comic Con. Needless...

Just to clarify this discussion, the Great Wall of China does not go under the sea. It ends at the Bohai Sea, where it is known as the Old Dragon's Head. Looks like a great place to collect ocean water.....but then again, it would just be one more thing "Made in China." :grin:

At my local HD they do not have John Guest fittings (or should I say they are not called John Guest.) They are simply call "quick connect" fittings.....and I think they are all made by Watts. They are in the same area as all the brass tubing fittings.

I don't understand the use of schedule 80....especially if using pipe, unions, etc, because you'll lose internal diameter. Schedule 80 is for high pressure. There is virtually no pressure with our systems....and they are relatively expensive. So what am I missing?

RVS Fishworld Inc.

Old school.....ReefKeeper II :grin:

I'm not understanding running biopellets with GFO.....especially early in the game. Biopellets don't work if you don't have the proper balance of phosphates and nitrates. You eventually can start GFO with biopellets if you see that your phosphate number is through the roof. Otherwise, GFO...

I actually use to work in a race shop (as the engine guy), but the way these guys drove, I ended up doing more body work than engine work. I'm actually thinking about taking a belt sander to the mess and then covering it up with Bondo. I was the king of Bondo in our shop.

Well, I’m ticked! This started showing up about a month ago…..the front arced piece of plywood on my DIY nano canopy was “blistering.” To put it another way, the plywood was failing by the exterior piece of ply bulging outward. Here’s a pic: Now when I built this I used...

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