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That is something I worry about with the gurus of this hobby. Many of them only seem to know "a thing or two" about reef systems. I'm not trying to be flip, but look at most of the people in the hobby. Most are expert only in one or two areas. With all due respect to Mr. Calfo, who is a great...

This is possibly one of the better reasons to use ozone. It should still be used in a skimmer, and all the other stuff I mentioned in my other post apply. Using ozone through an airstone in the sump or tank is a good way to kill everything in it.

Such ozone reactors, AKA oxygen (over pressure) reactors when used with just air, have been around for years. If you notice, almost no one today has one on their reef. There is a good reason for this. They are at best marginal, with or with out ozone. In addition to work, some of the air or...

What brand of skimmer are we talking about? Sometimes you can modify the skimmer to avoid that. Usually though, the others are right, keep cleaning it.

My choice for my 30 gal reef was the Aqua C Remora. For smaller tanks it's excellent. Be especially careful when getting smaller skimmers. There is a lot of junk ot there that you wish to avoid. The AquaC Remora will set you back about $165. If you see something for a lot less, you can...

My first choice would be to drill the tank and install overflows, and use a sump. My second would be to use a Lifereef external overflow and a sump. I consider small filtration systems like the one by CPR to be too small for a 90gal tank. In addition my experience with CPR products has been so...

I have used ozone for many years, in the past. I do not use it today. I must respectively disagree with Anthony Calfo and Steven Pro. I feel that ozone does have some advantages. It can go a long way to keep the tank free of algae in the water (but not the system) and it will help keep water...

This is not a bad algae like hair algae or red slime. However, it can deplete a lot of calcium from the water. I'd keep some of it, but keep it pruned back.

I'd replace the float switch. It's stuck twice for you. I also have never had to clean my float switches. However, it could be different in your reef, if your growing stuff like macro algae in your sump.

This is a good chart to start with. Note that several salts are very low in Mg and in Ca. I would avoid those. The trouble is that it's tough to pick a winner, because there are many other factors involved.

In a more typical system, considering the reading you have for nitrate, I'd say you were overfeeding, BUT you have those Anthias in there, and they do require a constant supply of food. You really can't get around that. Since your going to need to feed, and thus add more nitrates and phosphates...

I'm not going to recommend a specific brand, other that to say it's not a commonly seen one. (If someone really wants to know PM me) I will say this. The water is the lifeblood of your system. It's keeping everything in your system alive. This tends to be livestock you have had for years and...

Normally using a MaxiJet would be fine, but in this case, the pump would be asked to raist water up 7 - 8 feet. That's asking a lot of a powerhead type pump. You also have the problem of the pump adding a lot of makeup water quickly, even with 1/4 tubing. A dosing pump or a diaphragm pump would...

A typical dosing pump (perlistic pump) would most likely work, but if you are in doubt, a diaphragm pump will easily do what you need. Here is an example - http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=386 Diaphragm pumps do make some noise, so take it into consideration when you mount the pump...

My first RO unit was similar. It's really not a good performer. The "ice maker" pre filters don't do that good a job, and the RO unit itself is small. I highly recommend a full size unit. It's not that much more. Best of all, if you need to replace parts on it, they are easily available. You...

That's about right. The course pad does the mechanical filtration. the sponge block will provide some biological filtration. The open area can contain bags of chemical filter media, if needed. The bulk of the biological filtration is done by the live rock in the tank. I would also recommend a...

The best thing to to is get you own RO/DI unit. If you need 15 gal a week, even at .50 a gal, you'll spend 7.50 a week or $390 a year. A high end RO/DI unit is only going to cost you about $200. You'll pay for it in 6 months. Of course you do have to replace the filters from time to...

I'm assuming your doing the 210 gal reef you mention in you signature. My choice for T5 lighting would be option 3, since it's a lot more light, especially compared to options 2 and 1. This would give you the most light and still be a reasonable price. Option 1 is out of sight expensive, your...

IMHO, the only things that actually work for SW ich are copper and/or hyposalinity. They should be done in a QT tank, as you are doing, and the treatment maintained for 3 to 4 weeks. There are many good threads on the net about ich. A quick search will give you lots of information. However, a...

Since you don't have a lot of experience working with acrylic and the material is out of sight expensive, I recommend you get a small tank and modify that for your refugium. Yes, you will need to get a couple of holes drilled in the glass, but it's far less expensive and far less likely to cause...