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Phyl,
It Just seemed that way. Whenever the heater was on the water in the sump to need more and frequent top off. Time of year didn't matter. Maybe it was just perception. Thanks for the formula.
Mark
Paul,
I think it has to do with the people we obtained them from. I got mine from Bob and now have 5 from 1" to abot 2.5". You got your's from Bill. See the trend we obtained them from people who's name start with a 'B'.....lol
I was feeding mine weekly frozen krill and they split quickly. Now...
I have a 65 gallon standard tank for sale. It is not drilled or have overflows. The back is painted black. I picked this up on here for some turtles. Now they reside in my pond and don't need it anymore. I have no pics as I need to pick it up from PA. The tank/turtles were in my daughters PA apt.
I have evrythinhg thru Verizon an can't wait to ghet rid of them. Problem is all my phione have different dates because of changes and replaced phines etc and I think they will try and charge the early termination fee. Other problem is my family likes them because all their friends have them...
In my opinion I would go with T5 lighting. You can keep anything under them provided you have the right number of bulbs. T5 lighting has less heat issues compared to metal halide and the bulbs are cheaper. I also had halides on my 75 and it looked great. I went through several gallons of water...
Okay. I am convinced I need a heater based on the responses. How should I determine what size heater? My 300 watt caused much evaporation when it was on. I have a 75g DT with a 30g sump. Is it overall water volume, DT volume, sump?