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48x24x16 Rimless Reef ready build...it has begun!!!

DangerDave

NJRC Member
You should be fine if you make a strong mechanical connection. Salt creep will fill in any leaks. That said, there is a piece of mind in everything being glued, and **** happens. I’m about 50:50 myself lol.

Dave
 

Hockeynut

NJRC Member
You should be fine if you make a strong mechanical connection. Salt creep will fill in any leaks. That said, there is a piece of mind in everything being glued, and **** happens. I’m about 50:50 myself lol.

Dave
Ohhh no, only inside the box is not glued, outside everything is glued I’m sorry if I wrote something that could be misunderstood. I would be really nervous about have any any pvc joints outside the tank or sump not glued.
 

NJTaxMan

NJRC Member
Ohhh no, only inside the box is not glued, outside everything is glued I’m sorry if I wrote something that could be misunderstood. I would be really nervous about have any any pvc joints outside the tank or sump not glue

Of Course. You replied to what i was asking about. The return pipe inside of the overflow box itself...not under neath. Everything underneath is rock solid glued!!!
 
Of Course. You replied to what i was asking about. The return pipe inside of the overflow box itself...not under neath. Everything underneath is rock solid glued!!!
I wouldn't worry about it inside the tank. Get it as tightly fit with your hand as you can and you'll be fine. Not enough pressure to push the loc line out (or whatever you're using).
 

NJTaxMan

NJRC Member
Ok. Plumbing is done. Originally did this with white schedule 40 but I was an idiot on and used the yellow Oatley cement. Looked absolutely terrible. Figured since I am redoing it..why not make it purdy..so I was the fool with money and bought the expensive colored pvc to match my Emerald Trigger Systems Sump. Outside of the fact that the Schedule 80 fittings hide most of the coloration..looks pretty darn good!!! As of now, I left a plumbing out so that I can add a future state UV filter. Probably a better place to put it but I can live with the front facing plumbing. All in all, only one MAJOR mistake and that is my vertical from my return pump is about an inch short which is probably going to put a little extra stress on the joints.. As such, just going to put in a 1" ceramic bio brick under it and level it off. Was hoping to get the tank wet this weekend but going to wait for my brick. Finally, have a Durso drain and a horizontally placed ball check valve.

Plumb1.jpgPlumb2.jpgPlumb 3.jpg
 

iTzJu

DAL North
Board of Directors
NJRC Member
plumbing looks clean! want to come over and plumb my frag tank? lol
 

NJTaxMan

NJRC Member
You dont want that. I spent the last few days chasing a pin hole leak!!! However, it does seem like my plumbing is finally water tight and I am starting to get the tank wet. Sucks that I only have a 5 gallon RODI reservoir so probably going to take me about a week to get it filled!!! My wife is already yelling at me for using all of the water on my nano!!!

Anyway, the back has been painted, the plumbing installed, tank put in place and the water getting filled. Yes I said painted. I let my daughters paint the back with black light paint so it shows up nice and pretty!!! Gives me something to remember them by when they go off to college :cry2:

Tank.jpg
 

Mark_C

Staff member
Moderator
Question for the vets out there. My 3/4 return is a slip x slip. Do I cement in the return pvc in the overflow bulkhead? Worried that the pressure will push out the tube. But also worries that I won’t be able to remove if I need to. Thoughts?

They're deceptively solid connections once seated. I've exclusively used slips in every build from 80 to 140 and never had a concern. As Rob said, I'd avoid PVC cement as theres always a chance of a future mod. Sometimes i would assemble the slip halfway, then put a small bead of silicone on the male part near the connection, then fully seat. It gives a bit of extra support, ensured watertightness, and was easy enough to disassemble if needed. I doubt it was necessary but it was a small habit I got into when using slip connections.

Edit: Sorry, I seem to be severely late to this thread.
 

Salted

NJRC Member
As such, just going to put in a 1" ceramic bio brick under it and level it off.
I recall reading more than once that there was a bad batch of these that were crumbling apart over time. If the possibility cracking is a real concern keep an eye on your brick or use something else. I have a bunch of eggcrate left over from making a top screen that you're welcome to if you want it. Plumbing and tank look great btw.
 

NJTaxMan

NJRC Member
I recall reading more than once that there was a bad batch of these that were crumbling apart over time. If the possibility cracking is a real concern keep an eye on your brick or use something else. I have a bunch of eggcrate left over from making a top screen that you're welcome to if you want it. Plumbing and tank look great btw
Thanks. Definitely keeping this in mind. I used the Bio Bricks as a stop gap measure because I wanted to start getting water in the tank. Already ordered some egg crate. Thanks for the offer.
 

NJTaxMan

NJRC Member
The next part in my build series is my review of the Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off that I purchased at @Premiumaq during their sale. I was so happy..I bought at 15% off and just before the $10 price increase. Woot Woot.

This is reportedly the best ATO in the business. Initial impressions does nothing to diminish that standing. I had it set up in about 10 minutes. Would have been sooner, but anyone who has bought a Tunze before knows that you are leafing through a German instruction manual to get to the English. Nice long wires, plenty of tubing, even provided the velcro patch to attach to your tank. The only REAL complaint on the set up was that I had was that I was not sure which wire went into which connector. After leafing through the german to find the English..I finally came to the singular sentence that 'it is immaterial on which wire goes into which connector'. DOH My 'why does this bother you so much' complaint is that the magnet on the outside piece has the poles reversed to the inside piece so that the wording is upside down. Goes against my OCD nature. Told you..it was one of those complaints ;)

The ATO has two sensors...an optical eye (make sure you point it down and the tip of the eye is at your desired water level) and an emergency, redundant float switch. A little large...but awesome precision. Doing a few manual tests, I can say they worked as expected.

The pump is nice and small and fits in those wonderful 5 gallon jugs of sea water you get at your LFS. Only complaint on the pump is that it is pretty loud. Not 'leave the room loud'..but definitely a 'did a fish just get sucked up and jam the gears' loud.

The ATO has been up and running for a little over a day now. Water level is perfect. Highly recommend..even if a little on the pricey side.
 
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