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75g Build Input and Suggestions, lots needed

ReeferBobRW

ReeferBobRW

NJRC Member
Hi, My name is Bob and I've been keeping F/W fish for 10+ years. I did try to keep S/W fish back around 1990, but due to lack of knowledge and equipment, it failed miserably. I currently have a Finnex 30 gallon all in one reef tank that is running for about 1yr. I also have a 75g tank and stand, it was setup for freshwater but empty now, I would like to setup as a reef tank. I am planning on putting softies, LPS fish and maybe a try at SPS but we'll see. I have been doing some research but would like some opinions and input to make it work. I am handy and I wouldn't mind building some things myself. I would also like to keep this all reasonably priced.

Items I have
75g Tank (not drilled ATM) and stand
2 wet/dry filters w/overflows
~60-75 LBS of rock from Marcorocks (nice meeting you at the swap):)

Items I need
Lighting
Sump/Refugium
Skimmer
Pumps
Plumbing

I would like to go with T5 lighting mainly for power consumption, heat and I like the idea that I can change the bulbs to different configurations. My first question, anyone have experience with T5 lighting. My 30g has MH. 2 lights I have been looking at are -
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...uct_Code=AT-TX54800&Category_Code=Aquactinics
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...oduct_Code=SL-960040&Category_Code=SunlightT5
I don't know much about lighting like 6 bulb vs 5 or the different manufactures. Price is a concern also.

sump/fuge, I would like to try and build one myself as it doesn't look all too complicated. Maybe a 30g tank, but then again I'm not sure about what size to use. It will be put under the stand. Does anyone have any good DIY ideas or plans for this?

Skimmer, not a clue. I have a Tunze skimmer on my 30g. Suggestions? ???

Pumps, again clueless here. ???

Plumbing, to drill or not to drill, this is the question. I do have 2 overflows I could use.

The tank needs to be resealed, the bottom front silicone pulled back and was leaking after years of use. I did buy silicone I but does anyone know where to purchase that black silicone that i see in some tanks? Does it work better or doesn't it make a difference? Anyone have experience with resealing a tank like do I have to redo all the silicone,what do i clean it with etc..

I know there's allot more to it but I just want to plan this out right the first time. My present reef tank was just, take out of box, fill with water, plug in for the most part. I have allot more questions and I hope this is the place to ask. Like do i "cook the rocks", can I use play sand since I'll be seeding the tank anyways....

Thanks for looking and any advice you can give is greatly appreciated. :)

Bob
 
C

concept3

Guest
Hey Bob-



We're all glad to be of help. As I was reading your post, I'd like to give a few suggestions on how you can come about with your proposed setup.

Tank- you mentioned that it needs to be resealed and is not reef ready. I think it's a lot more of a hassle resealing a tank (with the black silicone which is harder to find) and then drilling it and keeping it intact. You need to find out if the glass is tempered too.. Personally, I would get a new tank. You can find a 75G AGA RR tank for around $115-$180... The name escapes me now, but there is a place on Rt 73 down south that has em for cheap...

Wet-dry filters: Use them as your sump. Most people have been converting W/D filters into fuges or just sumps, as the bio-media has a tendency of accumulating and producing debris (unless taken care off periodically) which in turn increases nitrates in the long run.

Skimmer: a very extensive selection. You need to look at your future plans and budgets. For now, you may be able to get away with your existing filter as long as you stick with regular water changes and a low bioload. You have time to pick the right skimmer here for you. I'm sure others will add their own experiences and opinions, I was able to acquire a Deltec AP600 from another reefer otherwise, the original price for me would have been a no-no. Good deals are always around.

Return pumps: I like the Iwakis since they are quiet and efficient (but they are external). I prefer the externals due to heat concerns... Remember too that you DO NOT want excessive flow to go through your sump, only about 10-15X the total water volume per hour is all you need, maybe even less. For instance, I have an Iwaki 20 and I have about 100-110 total water volume.... The water circulation WITHIN the tank in my opinion is more crucial.

Internal pumps: From Hydor Koralias to Maxi-jets to Tunze streams, there are a multitude of options. I like to base my purchases on efficiency and power consumption. For instance, a pump rated at 20 watts that'll be in the water will warm up the water faster and use up more electricity than one at 8 watts....and then if you think about the summer months, you'll need to cool that water down somehow. I like to think Longterm. I used to have 4 Maxijet 1200's and a SEIOs 1500 in my old 75, and when they got replaced by a sngle Tunze, the tank got a little bit more maneagable in terms of temp swings. I got another one a little later..... and still have them.

Lighting: If you plan on breaking down your 30G with the halide, add another one to match. Wattage is wattage from what others have told me, and 250W of halides is equivalent to 250W of VHO or T5 in rough calculations (Magnetic ballasts use more energy). You could save a little money in the long run with halides since they have a "longer" lamp life, vs flourescents which lose intensity over time..

Sand- I'm still working on that myself- I'm sure someone (*ahem* Blange *cough*) will chip in :) I have mine sitting in a bucket "cycling" for about a month now, but am too scared of losing all my SPS if i don't do it right...but that's another story.

Cooking rocks: Only if you have rock from an established system. This is done so you dilute the excess nutrients within the rocks. It's also so any organisms or unwanted algaes gets eliminated from the rocks from light starvation and constant water agitation.
 
blange3

blange3

I'm being called out, so....

Play sand is fine, wash it well. I use water to be discarded after water changes as my final wash. The Home Depot Tropical Playsand works. It IS marked not for aquarium use and it is a silica based sand, but many people use it. The question is how deep to go? I've settled on shallow sand beds of about 2 inches. A good sea cucumber and lots of Cerith snails will keep it clean. These comments will bring the sand people both pro and con out in greater numbers! ;)

I'm with Merv on getting a new tank. Drilling and resealing is not worth the time, effort and risk. Check out Aquatic Obsessions in Woodbridge, I believe they have some tanks deals coming up again.

Skimmers will trigger week long discussions, I have an Octopus NW 150 on my 75. I like it but it needs the gate valve mod.

Use the wet dry for the sump. I have mag pumps and have been lucky with the heat, but they can be a pain to restart if you shut them off. For internal pumps, decide what you are keeping in the tank. I keep a lot of LPS like Frogspawns and Hammers and want gentle flow, so I only have 2 maxi-jets. For a tank that is mostly SPS you'll want much more flow.

When it comes to lighting, I'm the embarrassing oldtimer that the club likes to hide in the closet, I still like VHO fluorescent the best! ;D

Your Marco rock needs to be cycled. I believe all rock needs to be cycled. Cooking is a very specific for of cycling intended to purge your rock of every possible nutrient source, including most of the life on it except bacteria. I would cycle the Marco rock for at least 2-3 weeks and add some live rock to the container to seed it with life. Check Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates and you should see the cycle progress.
 
ReeferBobRW

ReeferBobRW

NJRC Member
Wow thanks for the fast replies.

I'm going to take your advice and look for a 75g RR tank. I just sent Aquatic Obsessions an email asking about specials :) I would like to keep my 30g intact for now so i won't be taking it down. I hear allot about closed loop, can i do this with a RR tank and is there an advantage?

I also like the advice on using my wet/dry as a sump. It's always good to reuse equipment when you can. Now can i use it as a sump, incorporate a refugium in with it or do you thin it's best to put the fuge in another tank and tie the 2 together. hmm wonder how tough it would be, It doesn't need to look good just work well. I like the idea of a fuge. I also see some people drawing up these elaborate plans for a sump. It really doesn't need to be that complicated does it? For in tank pumps, I picked up a Korillia 2 from Hidden Reef at the swap and I really like it. Low wattage nice wide flow. Maybe a few of these will do.

The play sand is also a good idea, I need to keep the cost down somewhat and since I'm starting out fresh with this tank there is no rush. Sand people what do you thing? I can cycle it for a few months if necessary. I can also take some of my existing sand and a piece of rock to seed the tank. The Garf grundge I got for my 30 was great so that's an option.

Lights, maybe build a hood. Not exactly sure how to build a hood but like I said I'm handy with tools. So I'm guessing it doesn't matter what type then. MH will be as good as T5 or HVO? I thought that T5 lights were lower power consumption and less heat but then I don't have any experience with them. Do the T5 bulbs really burn out faster?

I'll look at skimmers as i get closer, I'm not ready to go there hehe. Do I need a skimmer to cycle? As I get closer and ready to start this project can i just add the sand and rock, pop in a PH in the tank and let it go for a month or 2 or do I need the lights, skimmer, sump and everything ready to go and running? Again there is no rush to get this going.

Sorry to ask so many questions and again thanks for all the replies your info is great!
 
blange3

blange3

ReeferBobLP said:
Lights, maybe build a hood. Not exactly sure how to build a hood but like I said I'm handy with tools. So I'm guessing it doesn't matter what type then. MH will be as good as T5 or HVO? I thought that T5 lights were lower power consumption and less heat but then I don't have any experience with them. Do the T5 bulbs really burn out faster?

Sorry to ask so many questions and again thanks for all the replies your info is great!
Click to expand...

T5's run best with fans and do generate heat, just not as concentrated as MH. IF you go with a simple AGA Pine Canopy they run about $85 - $100 and are great for mounting T5's.

And never apologize for asking questions! The primary purpose of NJRC is education. ;)
 
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