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Aquacontroller 3 Pro
- Thread starter PMolan
- Start date
mynd, in ONE respect I'd say it can be more important on a smaller setup. If you use the Neptune (or other device) to control your heaters and a heater breaks in the on position your tank can overheat pretty quickly and kill off the contents of the tank. Having a 2nd "master" thermostat controlling this will turn off the power to the heater! It would work the same on a large tank but then you are usually talking about several heaters in the system and if one gets stuck on it's not as bad/harmful to the tank as one stuck heater probably isn't enough to drive the tank to the "kill" point. This is also a good reason why you should always use a couple of smaller watt heaters in any size system instead of one larger heater. IMHO in not a matter of if the heater will break but WHEN it will break.
PMolan, you can do the automatic daily water change without the use of a fancy controller. Just premix the water in a container to the salinity you want and pick up 2 small luft/doser pumps ($12 each) and one cheap digital timer. Just connect both pumps to the same timer so they are on or off at the same time. When on, one will discard water from your system while the other puts your freshly mixed water in the system. (TIP: make sure you have the exact same head height on both pumps to make sure they both pump the same volume per hour). See note below:
Phyl is absolutely correct that doing smaller frequent water changes over time is less effective than doing a larger water changes for dilution effects. The reason I DO LIKE this method is that you are constantly adding freshly made up water to the system so it is getting some fresh trace elements as well as some dilution. It just makes for a more consistant daily running tank. Then after the routine is going you continue to test the tank and either adjust the daily rate or combine it with a monthly water change (always a good idea). The Nitrate test kit will be a good indication of how things are going water change wise.
Carlo
PS forgot to answer PMolan's other question. I'm using a brute 44 gallong trash can for the mixed salt water. I drop a Pinpoint Salinity Meter in the trashcan to mix the water to the correct salinity. You can use a refractormeter, salinity meter or good old hydrometer to do this. Basically whatever you use to test the SG/Salinity of your tank with. Basically just mix up the water just as you normally would for any water change.
PMolan, you can do the automatic daily water change without the use of a fancy controller. Just premix the water in a container to the salinity you want and pick up 2 small luft/doser pumps ($12 each) and one cheap digital timer. Just connect both pumps to the same timer so they are on or off at the same time. When on, one will discard water from your system while the other puts your freshly mixed water in the system. (TIP: make sure you have the exact same head height on both pumps to make sure they both pump the same volume per hour). See note below:
Phyl is absolutely correct that doing smaller frequent water changes over time is less effective than doing a larger water changes for dilution effects. The reason I DO LIKE this method is that you are constantly adding freshly made up water to the system so it is getting some fresh trace elements as well as some dilution. It just makes for a more consistant daily running tank. Then after the routine is going you continue to test the tank and either adjust the daily rate or combine it with a monthly water change (always a good idea). The Nitrate test kit will be a good indication of how things are going water change wise.
Carlo
PS forgot to answer PMolan's other question. I'm using a brute 44 gallong trash can for the mixed salt water. I drop a Pinpoint Salinity Meter in the trashcan to mix the water to the correct salinity. You can use a refractormeter, salinity meter or good old hydrometer to do this. Basically whatever you use to test the SG/Salinity of your tank with. Basically just mix up the water just as you normally would for any water change.
Carlo,
Your point is well taken. I certainly believe that there are situations where this will be true. However, I don't use a heater ( I use a chiller/heater ) and 2, You can easily put a gfci adapter ( substantially less in cost ) on anything you want to be tripped in the event of failure. The point of my post was just to say how expensive that item is, but thinking now on what you said about larger tanks the losses could even be more expensive then the gadget if you have the need.
I am sure that item and others do exceptionally well when it comes to security and just overall convenience. I am just saying that about 6 years ago we did everything by hand and memory.
Your point is well taken. I certainly believe that there are situations where this will be true. However, I don't use a heater ( I use a chiller/heater ) and 2, You can easily put a gfci adapter ( substantially less in cost ) on anything you want to be tripped in the event of failure. The point of my post was just to say how expensive that item is, but thinking now on what you said about larger tanks the losses could even be more expensive then the gadget if you have the need.
I am sure that item and others do exceptionally well when it comes to security and just overall convenience. I am just saying that about 6 years ago we did everything by hand and memory.
Mynd, on a small tank you wouldn't need all of the capabilities of even the 3 (most certainly not the pro). You would be able to use the Jr. So for significantly less money you would have peace of mind and a more reliable timer/tank management system. With PAs 15% discount, the product is well worth the money you'd spend on it.
We use our Jr on our small tank to turn on the top off pump once a day for a minute (so misfire is less likely and less harmful), turn on fans when the tank heat builds (no chiller on that one), control the lights. You can have the heaters come on at this temp and go off at that temp. A half a degree higher and the fans come on. Two degrees higher and the lights go out. It becomes a triple safety net. When you have valuable livestock (to the tune of thousands of dollars), really the AC is well worth the investment in it.
We use our Jr on our small tank to turn on the top off pump once a day for a minute (so misfire is less likely and less harmful), turn on fans when the tank heat builds (no chiller on that one), control the lights. You can have the heaters come on at this temp and go off at that temp. A half a degree higher and the fans come on. Two degrees higher and the lights go out. It becomes a triple safety net. When you have valuable livestock (to the tune of thousands of dollars), really the AC is well worth the investment in it.
Well, the junior is not so bad..
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5192
Decent price for something that does what it does. I might consider this in the future.. What is our pricing on something like this?
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5192
Decent price for something that does what it does. I might consider this in the future.. What is our pricing on something like this?
Edwardw771
NJRC Member
Spend the kids college fund thats how we pay for all these gadgets.
mynd, no question that a tank can be run without a "computer on board". I sold my 3 Pro yesterday and I'm without computer now too. I will be replacing it however with a 3 (not pro).
The gfci adapter won't help in the case of heater issue as most people experience. The problem is that the heater functions normally (nothing wrong to trip the gfci) but the internal thermostat breaks and simply turns on one day but NEVER turns back off again. It becomes an ALWAYS ON HEATER. Some type of third party thermostat device would save a tank in this situation.
Phyl nailed it. The 3 Pro isn't needed by 99+% of people. Honestly I think those that have the Pro buy it because it's the top of the line regardless of features needed. I did this the first time myself but won't the 2nd time around (lucky for me). The Jr will do fine for most systems while the 3 might be an advantage if you like the web stuff built into it. The Jr's base unit with temp probe is only $149 while the 3 (no pro) is $399. If you buy the "combo" packs with the electrical outlets (need these) the price of the base unit drops.
The "computer" can do a lot more then we've talked about here. For example if you are looking for any type of wavemake then the Jr purchase becomes a no-brainer since the wavemaker feature is built in!
Besides the heater control there is the flip side to temperature control. When it starts getting warmer out the Neptune can be used to turn on/off any type of 120 volt fan. You could have a small fan or two over the tank, in the sump area, etc and the Neptune can use these to bring down the heat. Heck in the dead heat of summer you can even take a big old house fan and have it blow over your tank and be controlled by the Neptune. For many people this extra cooling via fans is enough to keep you from having to make the big purchase of a chiller and will pay for the device!
IMHO the cost of the Neptune setup (whatever that might be) is directly proportional to the cost/value of your tank livestock. The more value/expense you have in the tank the "cheaper" the controller seems to be for piece of mind and flexibility.
Carlo
The gfci adapter won't help in the case of heater issue as most people experience. The problem is that the heater functions normally (nothing wrong to trip the gfci) but the internal thermostat breaks and simply turns on one day but NEVER turns back off again. It becomes an ALWAYS ON HEATER. Some type of third party thermostat device would save a tank in this situation.
Phyl nailed it. The 3 Pro isn't needed by 99+% of people. Honestly I think those that have the Pro buy it because it's the top of the line regardless of features needed. I did this the first time myself but won't the 2nd time around (lucky for me). The Jr will do fine for most systems while the 3 might be an advantage if you like the web stuff built into it. The Jr's base unit with temp probe is only $149 while the 3 (no pro) is $399. If you buy the "combo" packs with the electrical outlets (need these) the price of the base unit drops.
The "computer" can do a lot more then we've talked about here. For example if you are looking for any type of wavemake then the Jr purchase becomes a no-brainer since the wavemaker feature is built in!
Besides the heater control there is the flip side to temperature control. When it starts getting warmer out the Neptune can be used to turn on/off any type of 120 volt fan. You could have a small fan or two over the tank, in the sump area, etc and the Neptune can use these to bring down the heat. Heck in the dead heat of summer you can even take a big old house fan and have it blow over your tank and be controlled by the Neptune. For many people this extra cooling via fans is enough to keep you from having to make the big purchase of a chiller and will pay for the device!
IMHO the cost of the Neptune setup (whatever that might be) is directly proportional to the cost/value of your tank livestock. The more value/expense you have in the tank the "cheaper" the controller seems to be for piece of mind and flexibility.
Carlo
Good information.. I am sold.. I will get one once the tank is ready to be filled. Only a couple more weeks. Just waiting on my chiller for the may 1st. Just for an fyi, check that link I have above. The unit is only 89.99 with the temp probe. Just wanted to see what our club pricing would be on it.
Thanks for the discussion.. As always, informative and fun..
Just waiting on my chiller for the may 1st. Just for an fyi, check that link I have above. The unit is only 89.99 with the temp probe. Just wanted to see what our club pricing would be on it.Thanks for the discussion.. As always, informative and fun..
arvin
NJRC Member
Mynd,
That pricing is without the DC8 which is required to run the unit. This is what you need:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...uct_Code=NEP-ACJR-SERUP&Category_Code=Neptune
Priced at $244 and it is 200 something after discount.
Let us know if you are still sold... ;D
That pricing is without the DC8 which is required to run the unit. This is what you need:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...uct_Code=NEP-ACJR-SERUP&Category_Code=Neptune
Priced at $244 and it is 200 something after discount.
Let us know if you are still sold... ;D