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Auto topoff question???

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dfm34

Hi all I need some expert opinions on an Auto Top off I am designing. I want to run my RODI unit directly off my homes pluming and then direct to my sump. Here are my concerns/questions:

1)Do I have to have a reserve tank or can I go direct to sump with a solenoid valve?
2)If I run the RODI direct from my plumbing will there be constant water running through the the waste tube or is the water pulled only when the valve is open?
3)Will there be enough water pressure running the RODI unit from the basement to the tank with out a pump?

I would appreciate any help that you can give.

Thanks
 
P

pgordemer

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
dfm34 said:
Hi all I need some expert opinions on an Auto Top off I am designing. I want to run my RODI unit directly off my homes pluming and then direct to my sump. Here are my concerns/questions:

1)Do I have to have a reserve tank or can I go direct to sump with a solenoid valve?
2)If I run the RODI direct from my plumbing will there be constant water running through the the waste tube or is the water pulled only when the valve is open?
3)Will there be enough water pressure running the RODI unit from the basement to the tank with out a pump?
Click to expand...

It is never a good idea to run directly from the RODI unit to the sump. The small constant on/off of the RODI doesn't all it to be very efficient, and you will burn through DI at a fast rate. That is because the first few minutes of start RODI the membrane isn't efficient.

Have the RODI feed a reserve tank/55 gallon barrel/garbage can, then feed the sump from there. All you need is one of the many topoff kits, and a maxijet 1200 sitting in the bottom of the can.

To shutoff your RODI wiithout having waste, you need a ASOV and checkvalve in the RODI unit, when the float in the reserve tank shutdowns down the flow, the ASOV sees the pressure change and stops the flow and the checkvalve kicks in from the backpressure, so no waste.
 
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dfm34

Ok Thanks Phil

Let me make sure I understand this I can attach the RODI Unit direct to the homes plumbing run this to say a 10 Gal reserve tank next to my sump. Use a ASVO and check valve on the output line of the RODI unit then use a JBJ ATO unit to run a pump into the Sump? Is this right or am I missing something.

Thanks
Dan
 
P

pgordemer

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
dfm34 said:
Ok Thanks Phil

Let me make sure I understand this I can attach the RODI Unit direct to the homes plumbing run this to say a 10 Gal reserve tank next to my sump. Use a ASVO and check valve on the output line of the RODI unit then use a JBJ ATO unit to run a pump into the Sump? Is this right or am I missing something.

Thanks
Dan
Click to expand...

That will work fine. I also have the JBJ and it works like a change. The only difference is I go to a 55 Gallon Drum. So I manually turn on the water feed to the RODI and let it fill up the 55 resevior. Then I turn off the water source, this way the JBJ ATO to the tank does cause the RODI to refill the reserve. Then whenever I see the barrel is 1/2 empty I manually turn the RODI back on. The float valve will keep mee safe if I forget to turn it off, but turning it off soon after it is full keeps from having the same RODI efficiency problem you have if you went direct.
 
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Demo

What i did was plumbed my RO/DI direct from house plumbing in cellar next to the slop sink and installed this auto-shut off. http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...Osmosis-Accessories-Float_Valves~vendor~.html
I allow it to fill a 5 gallon bucket where I have a small pump. I've drilled a small hole through the floor behind the tank and a hose runs from the sump to the 5 gallon bucket(pump). In the sump I have installed this: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idproduct~SP5113.html
but replace the 1/4" tubing with a much longer piece so the control valve can be in the cellar also.
The pump comes on about once per day therefore the RO/DI does also.

Additional safety measures include a timer on the pump to only allow filling during a short window each day so if the valve fails it will not pump continuously causing a flood. Also the small volume, approximately 4 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket helps. I've also reconfigured a smoke detector to be a flood detector.

Sump level doesn't change more than a 1/4" or so in any direction and I think I'm pretty well covered. Total cost less than $200 and I do nothing. ;D

Also makes water changes a snap.
 
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Demo

Didn't know there was such a thing. I guess if I thought about it, I would have at least looked for one, but I found the idea on another reef site.

Greg, I just seperated the battery from the terminal and attached a wire to each terminal(on the alarm) and one wire to a terminal on the battery. The terminal on the battery without the wire gets attached to the other end of the wire attached to the appropriate terminal on the alarm. The other 2 wires stick out of the alarm body and are laid flat on the surface where water is likely to accumulate. The water puddle will finish the circuit causing the sound.

I hope that was clear, I don't have any photos right now, but will try to post one soon. It really only took a few minutes to make and I had an extra alarm laying around.
 
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