Although I am new to "reefing", I have been running FOWLR tanks for years, so from a "hardware" point of view I am pretty confortable with equipmnent. I started a project to move my current sump for my display 90 to the basement. After reading many comments in here and seeing the fantastic post from Phyl and John about basement tie in, it gave me a reason to think instead of MOVE it down there, Build NEW down there. Hence the project began.
This was actually completed about 4 months ago, I just never got around to posting pictures. Before I start, I personally want to thank RICH T, who with me being only a NJRC member for less than 2 weeks invited me down to his house and drilled my breeder tank for me. Phyl and John for the excellant idea of the manifold and to a whole round of people on the best way to go through the stand bottom and floor.
The sump is a 40 gallon breeder sitting on a metal stand. It is drilled on the left wide with a 1 1/2" bulkhead (thanks Rich T). All PVC is 1 1/2" and is expanded or reduced as need as close to the source/destination as possible. 1/4" glass cut from a local glass shop divides the sump into 3 sections, with the right section being the water in/skimmer section, middle being mini refuge with cheato and live rock and the last compartment (left side), going to back to the tank and housing the heaters and probes.
Since I am going back 14' to the tank, the return pump is a MAK 4. The resulting flow back to the tank is around 500 GPM. (1190 @ 0') It is placed on the floor from the sump on purpose so the pump always as water in it and pressure to make sure it restarts in a power failure. The pump is seperated by valves and unions and goes to a manifold were some gets directed to a UV and back to the tank. Other connections are used for sump draining, waste water removal, and redirection back to the sump for overflow if needed.
The water in from the RR tank comes straight down from the floor upstairs and into a 7" nylon 100 micron sock. A Y branch in the piping is open at the top to let air into the line. This keeps the water in the pipes quiet and consistent flow. The open Y also give me a high place to put the water in line from the RODI Automatic topoff (JBJ ATO on a Aquacontroller). The skimmer is a AQUAC EV-180 with a Mag 7 feeding it.
On bottom is SLOW FLOW Fluval 205, which houses carbon and Phosban. The carbon is changed every 2 weeks and the Phosban every 4 weeks.
Comments and questions invited.
This was actually completed about 4 months ago, I just never got around to posting pictures. Before I start, I personally want to thank RICH T, who with me being only a NJRC member for less than 2 weeks invited me down to his house and drilled my breeder tank for me. Phyl and John for the excellant idea of the manifold and to a whole round of people on the best way to go through the stand bottom and floor.
The sump is a 40 gallon breeder sitting on a metal stand. It is drilled on the left wide with a 1 1/2" bulkhead (thanks Rich T). All PVC is 1 1/2" and is expanded or reduced as need as close to the source/destination as possible. 1/4" glass cut from a local glass shop divides the sump into 3 sections, with the right section being the water in/skimmer section, middle being mini refuge with cheato and live rock and the last compartment (left side), going to back to the tank and housing the heaters and probes.
Since I am going back 14' to the tank, the return pump is a MAK 4. The resulting flow back to the tank is around 500 GPM. (1190 @ 0') It is placed on the floor from the sump on purpose so the pump always as water in it and pressure to make sure it restarts in a power failure. The pump is seperated by valves and unions and goes to a manifold were some gets directed to a UV and back to the tank. Other connections are used for sump draining, waste water removal, and redirection back to the sump for overflow if needed.
The water in from the RR tank comes straight down from the floor upstairs and into a 7" nylon 100 micron sock. A Y branch in the piping is open at the top to let air into the line. This keeps the water in the pipes quiet and consistent flow. The open Y also give me a high place to put the water in line from the RODI Automatic topoff (JBJ ATO on a Aquacontroller). The skimmer is a AQUAC EV-180 with a Mag 7 feeding it.
On bottom is SLOW FLOW Fluval 205, which houses carbon and Phosban. The carbon is changed every 2 weeks and the Phosban every 4 weeks.
Comments and questions invited.