Here is a more detail version of my own led setup.
Material:
Heatsink 17"x 7" I specifically got them off a user on ebay johnango. Their store is call Antek in North Arlington NJ and he can get you whatever size you want. The rest of the items I bought them off rapidled
2: 10K ohm potentionmeter you can also get these at radioshack
2: 10v ac adaptor you can also get these at radioshack
2: dc power connector you can also get these at radioshack
2: driver jumper
2: solderless led plug
Artic thermal adhesive this is for people who don't want to drill their heatsink. They hold very well.
2: Mean well dimmable driver ELN-60-48D
All the solderless led let you choose size solderless wire you want. I went with 6" as you can always snake the wire to fit whatever size you need.
9: Solderless XT-E royal blue
6: Solderless XP-G cool white
3: Solderless UV
3: Solderless XP-E red
3: Solderless XP-E green
Multimeter to adjust your driver
First you need to decided which led goes on which string. I divided 24 into 2 group 1 for each driver. I went with 9 royal blue and 3 cool white on one driver. 3 cool white 3 UV 3 red and 3 green for the 2nd driver. I then mark on the heat sink where which led goes. This part is all base on your opinion but I try to spread the royal blue for an even spread and the UV, red and green towards the middle.
Mix the thermal adhesive as you go as they dry fairly quickly. I mix the 2 parts just enough for a hand full of led at a time. I just eyeballed where I want to place the led you can be more exact if you want to grid out your heat sink before hand. Very important you want all your led facing the same way as the connection need to be positive and negative in the same direction for all led. See this link. http://www.menarilighting.com/rapidled/documentation/RapidLED_Solderless_Wiring_Diagram.pdf
Wiring them up is fairly simple. First you want to connect driver jumper cable to the first led positive and connect the negative to the following led positive and so on. Once your at your last led on your first string attach the solderless led plug to complete the connection.
Next you need to connect the driver to the potentionmeter and the 10v AC adaptor. Turn potentionmeter counter clockwise. The following link will show you. http://www.vinnymarini.com/pictures/rapid_docs/RapidLED_diy_dimmer.pdf
Open your driver to adjust the power output as the factory output is too strong for the led and might blow them. The following link show you how to adjust the power output and recommend 700-800 mA. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1thXysaHtY
http://www.vinnymarini.com/pictures/rapid_docs/Using Your Dimmable Driver.pdf
Once your sure the wiring is correct and you have adjust the power level in the driver via SRV2 in the driver, you can plug in the power supply for the driver and the 10v AC adaptor. The led string should be lit if it's not on unplug everything and double check all your wiring and connection.
Once adjusted you can take out the multimeter and close up the driver. The last step is I had some L brackets and drilled them into the heatsink to hold a small plastic sheet that I cut out into the same size as the driver. Let me know if you want any picture of the fixture or if you have any questions I will try and help you out.
Material:
Heatsink 17"x 7" I specifically got them off a user on ebay johnango. Their store is call Antek in North Arlington NJ and he can get you whatever size you want. The rest of the items I bought them off rapidled
2: 10K ohm potentionmeter you can also get these at radioshack
2: 10v ac adaptor you can also get these at radioshack
2: dc power connector you can also get these at radioshack
2: driver jumper
2: solderless led plug
Artic thermal adhesive this is for people who don't want to drill their heatsink. They hold very well.
2: Mean well dimmable driver ELN-60-48D
All the solderless led let you choose size solderless wire you want. I went with 6" as you can always snake the wire to fit whatever size you need.
9: Solderless XT-E royal blue
6: Solderless XP-G cool white
3: Solderless UV
3: Solderless XP-E red
3: Solderless XP-E green
Multimeter to adjust your driver
First you need to decided which led goes on which string. I divided 24 into 2 group 1 for each driver. I went with 9 royal blue and 3 cool white on one driver. 3 cool white 3 UV 3 red and 3 green for the 2nd driver. I then mark on the heat sink where which led goes. This part is all base on your opinion but I try to spread the royal blue for an even spread and the UV, red and green towards the middle.
Mix the thermal adhesive as you go as they dry fairly quickly. I mix the 2 parts just enough for a hand full of led at a time. I just eyeballed where I want to place the led you can be more exact if you want to grid out your heat sink before hand. Very important you want all your led facing the same way as the connection need to be positive and negative in the same direction for all led. See this link. http://www.menarilighting.com/rapidled/documentation/RapidLED_Solderless_Wiring_Diagram.pdf
Wiring them up is fairly simple. First you want to connect driver jumper cable to the first led positive and connect the negative to the following led positive and so on. Once your at your last led on your first string attach the solderless led plug to complete the connection.
Next you need to connect the driver to the potentionmeter and the 10v AC adaptor. Turn potentionmeter counter clockwise. The following link will show you. http://www.vinnymarini.com/pictures/rapid_docs/RapidLED_diy_dimmer.pdf
Open your driver to adjust the power output as the factory output is too strong for the led and might blow them. The following link show you how to adjust the power output and recommend 700-800 mA. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1thXysaHtY
http://www.vinnymarini.com/pictures/rapid_docs/Using Your Dimmable Driver.pdf
Once your sure the wiring is correct and you have adjust the power level in the driver via SRV2 in the driver, you can plug in the power supply for the driver and the 10v AC adaptor. The led string should be lit if it's not on unplug everything and double check all your wiring and connection.
Once adjusted you can take out the multimeter and close up the driver. The last step is I had some L brackets and drilled them into the heatsink to hold a small plastic sheet that I cut out into the same size as the driver. Let me know if you want any picture of the fixture or if you have any questions I will try and help you out.