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Refugiums
- Thread starter ken6217
- Start date
This is totally off topic and I completely apologize, but Vangance, its nice to see a fellow hockey fan on the forum... A friend of mine went the CPR HOB route... Still up and running for 6 months now and hes very satisfied.. I cant offer any tips since I myself do not run this setup but I assure you he is more than happy with his..
Thanks for the replies. I was curious why you suggested 2 medium size instead of one large?
The one with the skimmer would be a waste for me. I have an H&S which I am very happy with.
I thought I would try a refugium as this SPS tank is going on three years and everything is fine except that over the last few months I have gotten areas of cyno on some of the rocks. I test phosphate and nitrate using Salifert and it comes out clear even looking through the side of the test vial. As I mentioned, my skimmer is good and I do approx 20% water change every two weeks. Water flow is not the problem either. I am also using Rowa Phos in a Phosban reactor. I do need to keep up more on changing the Rowa Phos though. Maybe I have some phosphate bound to the rocks. My plan was to start using a MaxiJet 1200 to blast the rocks weekly and setup a refugium. I would assume (hope) this should resolve the problem.
With regards to the refugium, is cheato enough or do I have to put sand and some rock in as well?
Thanks,
Ken
The one with the skimmer would be a waste for me. I have an H&S which I am very happy with.
I thought I would try a refugium as this SPS tank is going on three years and everything is fine except that over the last few months I have gotten areas of cyno on some of the rocks. I test phosphate and nitrate using Salifert and it comes out clear even looking through the side of the test vial. As I mentioned, my skimmer is good and I do approx 20% water change every two weeks. Water flow is not the problem either. I am also using Rowa Phos in a Phosban reactor. I do need to keep up more on changing the Rowa Phos though. Maybe I have some phosphate bound to the rocks. My plan was to start using a MaxiJet 1200 to blast the rocks weekly and setup a refugium. I would assume (hope) this should resolve the problem.
With regards to the refugium, is cheato enough or do I have to put sand and some rock in as well?
Thanks,
Ken
cheato -use it for nutrient export
rock - use it if you plan on breeding pods
sand - don't bother.
Given the limited real estate in the hob fuges - i'd just put cheato in.
prune it frequently.
my two cents (contrarian point of view) i found maintenance to be a pain and if the pump gets clogged the flow will be reduced substantially and will result in cyano in the fug.
rock - use it if you plan on breeding pods
sand - don't bother.
Given the limited real estate in the hob fuges - i'd just put cheato in.
prune it frequently.
my two cents (contrarian point of view) i found maintenance to be a pain and if the pump gets clogged the flow will be reduced substantially and will result in cyano in the fug.
one other thought - you already have the tunze footprint - with the tank maturing - the corals will impact the flow as you originally designed it...that is, there probably parts of the tank that used to get flow that don't anymore -hence some spots of cyano.
One idea would be to just upgrade your "hockey pucks" from 6000s, to 6100s. Or upgrade one of them...see how that goes.
Cost is around $75~$85 US depending on the currency exchange and whether someone has them on sale. Or maybe you could even buy one thru the next PA group buy.
One idea would be to just upgrade your "hockey pucks" from 6000s, to 6100s. Or upgrade one of them...see how that goes.
Cost is around $75~$85 US depending on the currency exchange and whether someone has them on sale. Or maybe you could even buy one thru the next PA group buy.
Ah, very good. You do know your s**t. I thought the very same thing with regards to the coral growth. I did change out those two Tunze's for the new ones. I also as an experiment took a 6055 and put it about 6" from the bottom of the tank aiming across the tank left to right. It didn't change my situation. I am going to go the fuge route and hot the rocks with a powerhead and a brush where I can and see what happens.
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
I'm not sure what's going to work. I want to get the CPR HOB. I know the lengths of them but the problem is going to be the two pipes going into thr tank. Also I just found out that the powerhead goes into the tank as well. I have almost no room. I have a Tunze powerhead, then a monte cap that is about 14-15" inches across, then next to it a green slimer that has tons of branches that encompass at least 10". Then we get near the internal overflow. If I use the left side of the tank I have the overflow only about a foot from them left side. Can I put one of the tubes in the overflow?
Ken
Ken
i don't know if that will work... What I am thinking is that the intake (the ph) absolutely has to be outside the overflow - since the overflow will be too low for the PH to be situated. This means the outflow would have to be in the overflow and you may hear some noise from the water dropping in from the fuge.
In addition - the overflow typically has loc-line pipes coming out right? this may interfere with where the intake powerhead is supposed to go - depending on how long this fug is.
Could you set up the HOB on the sump below? Is there room?
It sounds like the cyano is uptaking the nutrients before your skimmer has a chance to work (also why your kits are showing zero). Have you thought of just blowing the rocks with the maxi first (maybe right before you do the water change) and seeing if that helps before implementing a fug? I would hate to see you go to all this trouble if just blasting the rocks every once in a while solves it.
In addition - the overflow typically has loc-line pipes coming out right? this may interfere with where the intake powerhead is supposed to go - depending on how long this fug is.
Could you set up the HOB on the sump below? Is there room?
It sounds like the cyano is uptaking the nutrients before your skimmer has a chance to work (also why your kits are showing zero). Have you thought of just blowing the rocks with the maxi first (maybe right before you do the water change) and seeing if that helps before implementing a fug? I would hate to see you go to all this trouble if just blasting the rocks every once in a while solves it.
Worst case scenerio could be getting an aquaclear 110 HOB filter and modding it into a refugium. Though this is typically a nano thing and I'm not sure how beneficial it would be on a 90.
You might be able to mod a CPR so that the pump is internal to the box and decrease the return pipe. It's been a while since I've been that personal with a CPR though so...
You might be able to mod a CPR so that the pump is internal to the box and decrease the return pipe. It's been a while since I've been that personal with a CPR though so...
Thanks guys. I am going to blow off the rocks this week when I do my water change and then decide on the fuge. I did think about putting on the sump too. I have to look and see if it will fit or not. The sump is 30" long so that won't be a problem. It wont be able to sit flush againest the back though because there is a wooden vertical brace in the back. Will that matter? Also can I extend the vertical and horizontal pipes if I need to?
Ken
Ken
Hi Ken,
I just noticed the one with skimmer only come in one size. Since you allready have a skimmer you don't need it. The others come in three sizes, What about mounting on a side? Or like suggested on the sump,It should still work on your sump if you extended the input and output, mine has a piece of clear PVC hose that the pump attaches to, it could probably be any length. and the same with return that just drops into tank.
I just noticed the one with skimmer only come in one size. Since you allready have a skimmer you don't need it. The others come in three sizes, What about mounting on a side? Or like suggested on the sump,It should still work on your sump if you extended the input and output, mine has a piece of clear PVC hose that the pump attaches to, it could probably be any length. and the same with return that just drops into tank.
if it's cyano you should suck out whatever mat you see. Then occasionally blow the area with the PH when you do your maintenance. Cyano forms because the water flow is slightly slower allowing the nutrients in the area to build up. Blowing/dispersing will allow the nutrients to flow out either to be uptaked by filter feeders or the skimmer.
