T-5 and Power Compacts

[erid]

Fellow Reefers, I need some education on the above topic.

What are the differences in performance between these two bulbs?

I have 130 Watt PC dual Actinics, and the newer release of my system has 2-54w T-5s, what's the big difference?

I've herd from a local retailer that the t-5 have more "POP"??

Is It really worth the conversion?

Thanks in advance!

Erik

 

[M_Shannon]

Just getting back into the hobby and started out a couple of weeks ago researching the latest and greatest news on lighting...

The way I'm understanding it right now... Is that an overdriven T5, with the right reflector, offers more PAR per watt. The dual tube PC will actually block a significant amount of light bouncing back into the tank from light leaving the top of the tube.

When you hear more "pop" I think they are saying more PAR therefore you're getting more "pop".

Is it worth it... Depends on whats in the tank... and what you want to add to the tank... 8-10 years ago PC's were all the rage and many people had very successful systems using them...

Personally, I've only used VHO's before, but this time around I plan on using 4x24"T5 driven by an ICECAP 660 ballast and from the research and data I don't think there are many speices I wouldn't be able to keep in a 10" deep tank...

My .02

 

[erid]

Thanks M_Shannon.

Erik

 

[IrradiatedReef]

At the 10" range it doesn't really matter what bulb you use because all bulbs can penetrate that depth. Flourescent tubes have the least amount of penetration, roughly 16-18" max. PC can penetrate up to about 20-22". On a 24" or higher tank, you want Halides to penetrate.

I personally would only use tubes for antinics as a support for halides. I use PCs on my tank and grow Digi and Acro just fine. I also have maze and brains on my sand as well as clams. The prebuild nano cubes have very nice growth on SPS as well and they use PCs as well.

Some people may disagree with me. I have no problem with that, I know a few people who are very sucessful with tubes. I just think they would be more sucessful with PCs.

 

[TNT_Tile]

I keep PC bulbs and I know they are expensive to replace, are the T-5's cheaper?

 

[mikem]

By POP, we mean that the colors of the corals are brighter and more colorful. T-5's also use less wattage and the bulbs last longer. The bulbs are a little more expensive. I've tried every lighting out there and almost every bulb. I like the T-5's on my softie tank and wouldn't go with anything other than MH's on my SPS tank.

 

[Carlo]

I don't get this. Maybe someone could explain it to me.

Below is my oppion so please feel free to enlighten me on what I'm missing.

Halides penetrate water better then T5s.

How do T5s use less wattage then anything else? It all depends on the total amount of bulbs you use and what the wattage is of the setup you run. Most people overdrive the bulbs and use more watts from them. For example if you went 350 watts of T5s but would have only run 250 watt halide you use extra wattage. Of course if you had 400 watt halides then you save 50 watts. watts = watts of electrical use. But with the change in watts will be a change in PAR.

The amount of color "pop" is more a function of the spectrum and PAR of the bulbs and fixtures then what technology you use to get there IMHO. You can get nice colors with any setup at the right kelvin and PAR.

IMHO the only reason to go T5s over Halides is for heat reasons.

Carlo

 

[mikem]

Right on the pop and par, but, the T-5's are mostly 24K. What brand MH bulb is out there with more than a 20K?
How many T-5's are you talking about with 350K?
I replaced 2 250watt MH's = 500 watts, with 4 T-5's@ 39watts each= 156watts. 500watts take away 156watts saves me 344watts and less heat so my AC isn't running all the time like it was before I switched them over.
On a deep tank, PAR would matter. But on a 24 inch softie tank, it doesn't matter.
You have to or we have to explain it a little better for the newbies and smaller tanks. They all don't have 500 gallons like we do. Or chillers to cool them down

 

[mikem]

I forgot to put in my first post that I would only use MH's in my SPS tank. Guess I confused you Carlos. Sorry. Just edited it.

 

[Carlo]

Right on the pop and par, but, the T-5's are mostly 24K. What brand MH bulb is out there with more than a 20K?
How many T-5's are you talking about with 350K?
I replaced 2 250watt MH's = 500 watts, with 4 T-5's@ 39watts each= 156watts. 500watts take away 156watts saves me 344watts and less heat so my AC isn't running all the time like it was before I switched them over.
On a deep tank, PAR would matter. But on a 24 inch softie tank, it doesn't matter.
You have to or we have to explain it a little better for the newbies and smaller tanks. They all don't have 500 gallons like we do. Or chillers to cool them down

Mike I'll be the first to say I don't know much about T5s. For example I didn't know they are mostly 24K.

The 350watt thing was probably a bad example. I think what I was getting at is that many people end up having as many if not more watts of T5s (from what I think I've read) then they could have done with Halides. As far as the electric bill goes a watt is a watt regardless of what type of bulb used the watt.

I can see an obvious advantage in your situation with lowering the wattage. Here maybe is what I don't really get. To me it seems like a T5 is closer to a PC then a halide in performance. What do you gain from the T5 setup you presently have compared to a PC setup in the same watt range?

Also I guess, I have a new statement & question. Many people say the best coral growth is achieved with 10K. They way you go 14K or 20K for looks but the corals are better off with 10Ks. If this is true then wouldn't that mean the color of the T5 is even worse (for corals) then any of the halides? Or did I completely miss what you were saying about the color?

I wanna know more!

Any good articles or anything you could recommend?

Thanks,
Carlo

 

[erid]

In my particular case I have an Current USA outer orbit lighting fixture with 2-150W 10K Hqi, and 2-130w PC Dual Actinics 420nm and 460nm.
*Current now makes the same fixture now available with 4-60w T-5s instead of the 2-130W PCs (on my unit).

I was just wondering if theres a significant difference, or is it just another marketing thing.

Erik

 

[Phyl]

I've heard that SPS do very well under T5s in a <24" tank. That's something that isn't commonly said of PCs. I would think that there must be something to the quality of light getting to the corals that would lead to that result. I'd go with T5s over PCs, especially if the bulbs are going to have individual reflectors (as this is really supposed to increase the available light to the corals).

 

[mikem]

Mott is the T-5 expert here.
Your right, theres no need for 8 T-5's. Their not giving you any better penetration.
A watt is a watt no matter what bulbs.
The difference I've seen between the PC's and the T-5's is that pop in color (24K) but a Crisp blue. And the heat factor is a big plus. Now I don't have to run a chiller on that tank.
I was only speaking on the color (looks) of the T-5's. Still experimenting with my growth. I can say this about softies. They're much happier with T-5's then 250 watt halides and everything is splitting faster.
Sanjay is the lighting garu, but not sure if he tested T-5's yet.
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/

 

[Carlo]

I completely understand the heat issue. That part has never been a problem for me understanding. Anyone close on temps but has to run a cooler could probably pay for a new light setup by not having to run the cooler.

Mike, do you think the 250s were just to much light for the softies?

Do you have any sps in there and if so, how are they doing?

Thanks for the info,
Carlo

 

[mikem]

Even when I had the 175's on there, They weren't doing as well as they are now.
No SPS's in there.
Tom (mott) has been using T-5's for a while on his SPS tank and has the same frags under MH's. The ones under T-5's are doing better then the Halides. Growth and color.
I have a system I do with my SPS's and lighting. I have 400 watt MH's. I keep them under 20K's for a few months to color them up. After that I move them under the 10K's and leave them there. They keep their color and now they grow quicker.

 

[Carlo]

Very interesting stuff there Mike. I'm in need of new lights for my 265 and have been debating on the new Solaris LEDs or not. I've presently got 2 48" inch halide fixtures over it (sticking off each end about 2 inches) along with 2 T8 strips with 8Ks to add some additional color (more natural look).

Up until this thread I HAD pretty discounted T5s but now I'm not so sure I should discount them without learning more about them and the success of others running them.

In your opinion do you think they are worth considering for an 84" long tank that is 30" deep? I do have some plates on the bottom as well as maximas.

Thanks,
Carlo

 

[Phyl]

From what I've heard neither T5s or the LED fixtures are appropriate for a tank that is >24" deep. I'd love to be proven wrong on that though.

 

[jazzsam]

From what I've heard neither T5s or the LED fixtures are appropriate for a tank that is >24" deep. I'd love to be proven wrong on that though.

If you look at the Solaris website the base everything on 24" depth so I would tend to agree with you there.

 

[Carlo]

Has anyone seen any good solid documentation comparing these different technologies against one another?

I'd love to see even a simple test report showing PAR values at different depths in the tank from different light sources of the same wattage. It would be very cool to also see how many watts of power it took to "equal" a 250 watt halide at the bottom of a 24" or deeper tank.

Carlo

 

[jazzsam]

Has anyone seen any good solid documentation comparing these different technologies against one another?

I'd love to see even a simple test report showing PAR values at different depths in the tank from different light sources of the same wattage. It would be very cool to also see how many watts of power it took to "equal" a 250 watt halide at the bottom of a 24" or deeper tank.

Carlo

As for the Solaris LED lights there is one comparison that I saw that is linked right on their home page. Check it out.