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Water Flow in the Aquarium - Experiments and learnings from Jake Adams' workshop

Ok, so it seems we've "hijacked" blange3's tank thread with water flow discussions, so I figured I'd start this thread up here and try to move that conversation here.

My understanding of it was this:

1: Coral growth on the reef creates its own disruption of the flow, or turbulence.
2: Moving the powerheads to one side and placing them to flow linear across the top creates a return across the bottom as the pumps energy builds, creating an eliptical "gyre" effect, or "conveyer belt" motion.
3: This movement will disrrupt more detritus
4: Creating a perfect environment is difficult because we have placed obstacles in the "energy path" of the current, where in nature, those obstacles would have grown out where they needed to on their own
5: At least 2/3 the length of the tank should be reached with the power of the powerhead.
6: "storming" the tank (hitting the rocks, sand surface, glass, etc with a powerhead) occassionally will help dislodge pockets of detritus that have formed in deadspots we create with our aquascaping.
7: We can still achieve "turbulent" flow with this method, as opposed to the previously preached "chaotic" flow. Placing powerheads facing each other or pointing at glass only disrrupts their energy before they can appropriately do what they need to to create flow in our aquariums

My tank:


90 Gallon AGA with corner overflow, 20 gallon home made sump.
Coralife superskimmer CS125
Occassional use of GAC in a TLF media reactor
Reef Crystals Salt Mix
RO/DI water for both salt mix and top off
Monthly 20% water changes
About 130-140 pounds of live rock
The sump mainly just contains equipment, but there is a center champer that holds rock rubble on a small sand mound, it is unlighted. this is mainly to break up the flow of the water and to hopefully generate pod propagation.
The DT has a shallow sandbed.
I do not dose anything.
No other means of filtration is used.
I am experimenting with LED light tubes on this tank.
Flow is created by a Quiet one 2000 return pump, a koralia 4 and koralia 3.

Livestock is a blue spot nasso tang, a pair of tomato clowns (about 4 years old now) 3 small yellow tail blue damsels, and an orchid dotty back.

Coral is some anthalia, zoas, palys, a scoly, and a toadstool leather

The tanks has been running like this for just under a year.

Now, that being said, I listened intently to what Jake had to say, and was intriqued by his workshop and demonstrations.

So, having a new bloom of cyano on the sand bed, and hair algae, as well as "junk" on the glass, and a diatom issue on the live rocks (youd think this was a brand new tank!)

And having researched just about everything I could come up with, and NOT wanting to dose anything, or add more expensive equipment to the system, I decided to give this a try.

I moved both powerheads to the left side, facing the right side, close to the surface to agitate the surface as well. I saw that the powerheads were not quite strong enough to reach as far as I would like them to, so I took both return lines from the sump return and angled them facing the same directions and across the surface of the water to achieve agitation on the far end away from the powerheads, and also to not have the cutting off the energy of the powerheads by pointing across the stream.

My results?

I imemediately saw detritus coming from all over under and around the back corners of the rocks

Within 24 hours, the hair algae began to look "sick", and the cyano was beginning to retreat off the sand surface.

Several days later, I'm seeing similar results, but I think the powerheads have to be stronger then they are.

Additionally, and this may be coincidence, but the fish are much more active, and move around the entire tank now. Previously, they all kind of had their own "bubble" they stuck to (except the nasso tang, but hey, she likes to be pet on the head, so shes strange). Now, they are all over the tank, very front and center, and seem to be alot more active then before.

The leather is no longer kind of "leaning" to one side, it's much more "straight", and it sways back and forth and has exhibited more polyp extension then recently.

The remainder of the softies in the tank are doing well, if not better. Color is good, feeding habits when I feed the tank are similar if not improved, and they are all appearing just as healthy if not more so than before.

I am also cleaning the glass less often then I was before.

Next step will be to try to get more powerful powerheads in the tank, and I may try setting powerheads up on opposite ends of the tank, and turn them on alternating one side on, then the other side on, to try to stir things up a bit.

Any comments, or discussions? Go right ahead!
 

Sunny

NJRC Member
Article Contributor
Re: Water Flow in the Aquarium - Experiments and learnings from Jake Adams' work

My $0.02.

I have a 150 gallon which is 6 feet long. I have 2 Koralia 6 and 2 Koralia 4. I can tell you that the K4 and K3 are not adequate for 90 gallon tank. If you get a K5 or K6 and use that on let's say left side and move the K4 and k3 to the right side, I think you will be very happy ;D
 
Thanks monroereef. I've been happy with koralias so far. What I am looking at now is putting Jake Adams' workshop to practice. The pumps as they were located before were doing ok, in combination with the return lines. But with the new flow practice in place, they don't quite reach the 2/3 cross section recomended by Jake.

I am also experimenting with some inexpensive Chinese equipment. Actually did some research and found a manufacturer that was the original designer and manufacturer of the Hydor Koralia pumps, and they are less then half the price. Ordered a couple up, we shall see how they work out. They also make a controllable pump as well. And lets face it, very little of our equipment originated or is even manufactured if it did originate here anyway.

The pumps I ordered are K5 equivalents, and cost me about $50 for two SHIPPED.
 
mfisher2112 said:
I am also experimenting with some inexpensive Chinese equipment. Actually did some research and found a manufacturer that was the original designer and manufacturer of the Hydor Koralia pumps, and they are less then half the price. Ordered a couple up, we shall see how they work out. They also make a controllable pump as well. And lets face it, very little of our equipment originated or is even manufactured if it did originate here anyway.

The pumps I ordered are K5 equivalents, and cost me about $50 for two SHIPPED.

do you have a web site/address for these pumps---been looking at different pumps also---would be nice to save some $ on pumps....
thanks
steve
 
Ebay. :)

Heres one of the links.

I misquoted though, they are not the k5 equivs, they are closer to between k4 and k5. But I picked them up for my 30 gallon to try them out. Heres the link:

http://shop.ebay.com/proquarium/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

And then I found this too, this is the big boy, but I'm not sure about it because it's suction cup mounted. The others are magnet mounted. THIS is the k5/k6 equivalent:

http://cgi.ebay.com/RESUN-WAVE-MAKE...lies?hash=item25568b61a2&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

But they are both from the same manufacturer as far as I can tell.
 

rodclement

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I changed my set-up as well in my 75gal. I removed 3 koralias and replaced them with two MP10's, one opposed to the other, both very close to the top of the water line, and running on 4 hours intervals, with 40 min. of overlap between them...my findidngs.

MP10 is more then sufficiient for a 75gal tank, I get more water movement from it then from larger koralias.
Immedialty I saw the water flow as Jake described, laminar flow with much less dead spot sin my tank!

The corals are more open now then before, but I also changed bulbs so it can be a combination if the two but the fish are more active for sure, they seem to enjoy the current better.

Deffinelty less algae growth in glass and on sand! Impressive how one pump can generate so much water movement!!!

My pump is set for "crest" on maximum output, when you feed the fish you can see the food circulate in the tank just like Jake showed at MACNA! I am alternating the flow as he recomended to minimize dead spots, also the overlap acts as "man made hurricane" stirring things up so there is even less deposits in the LR.

Anyway...so far so good...will keep posted.

Rod
 
Thanks rod, definately keep us posted. I've had my eye on those vortechs, theyre just so darned expensive!

I know blange3 is using the vortech 40 performing a similar experiment. Will be interesting to see everyones findings with a few weeks under the belt.
 
ds4x4 said:
i think i might try putting my Mod Maxi 12 and Magnum 6 on the same side..

How long have you been using that modded maxijet? I'm just curious because I have a mod kit here that I got a long time ago as a "free gift" with some Marco rock purchases. But I never bothered because I was using the Koralias. That and I heard horror stories of people having the thing literally blow apart in their tanks. LOL! Of course, they could have assembled it wrong, or any one of a number of causes I suppose.
 
This is the interesting little job I ordered to try out in my 30 gallon tanks, got 2 double head units for about $50 shipped:

dualheadpump.jpg


It's put out by a Chinese company called "SunSun", but it is manufactured by J&T Industries, which is supposedly the same manufacturer that developed and manufactured the Hydor Koralia pumps.

This little guy is rated at 1620 gal p/h, but of course, that is because there are two heads on the unit, so that would make each prop capable of pushing about 810 gal p/h.

I ordered mine through a guy I found on ebay in the states. Felt more comfortable dealing with a US based distributor than ordering directly from Hong Kong or China.
 
i've been using the Maxi for 6mos or so.. no problems. at one time the impeller would stick when restarted after being unplugged like it was stuck. i haven't had that probelm in a while and it moves more water then the magnum 6, sucks more power too
 
ds4x4 said:
i've been using the Maxi for 6mos or so.. no problems. at one time the impeller would stick when restarted after being unplugged like it was stuck. i haven't had that probelm in a while and it moves more water then the magnum 6, sucks more power too

Yeah, more power and more heat transfer were two other concerns. maxi's are power hogs.

Well, if you give the experiment a try, keep us posted with your results.
 
I recently switched from 2 Koralia 4's and 2 3's in a 4ft 120 gallon, to 2 mp40s...
Then I saw Jake's talk at MACNA who confirmed my setup. They are in asynch reef crest mode.

My chronic hair algae problem is for all intensive purposes gone.

It was the best change I've made to my tank.
 
tbaquatics said:
I recently switched from 2 Koralia 4's and 2 3's in a 4ft 120 gallon, to 2 mp40s...
Then I saw Jake's talk at MACNA who confirmed my setup. They are in asynch reef crest mode.

My chronic hair algae problem is for all intensive purposes gone.

It was the best change I've made to my tank.

I have a 210, 6ft long tank here that is my next major project. I want to get some of these new ideas worked out on the 90 and the 30 breeders before I tackle that, but from what I have been researching, the mp40's may actually be the economical approach with the 210! LOL! (not to mention about the only thing that's really going to move enough water volume across the tank).

Who knows! Maybe if enough people start buying the things, the price will come down before I buy em! LOL!
 
I have a 215 that is 6' also. My mp40 on the one side moves the water great. I think one on each side alternating and overlapping would be the way to go like rod said
 

rodclement

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I am just trying what Jake Adams said you know. Since I came back from Macna and did the switch, not one speck of hair algae growth or cyano...maybe to soon to tell but I do see more water movement and activity then before for shure!

The other plus is that with the MP10's, there is less heat in the tank and one less electric motor in the water to create prblems...

Rod
 
I'm surprised the MP10s are working out so well for you Rod. I would have thought them to be too underpowered for a tank that large.
 

rodclement

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
vangvace said:
I'm surprised the MP10s are working out so well for you Rod. I would have thought them to be too underpowered for a tank that large.

Me too! Once I spoke with Jake in detail...he told me that the only reason to use the MP20 would be if the glass was to thick, mine is not and the pump stays in place! It's all about placement, close enough to the water line as to create as much ripples as possible on the surface, it's about flow, not power.

Once the flow starts in creates circulation, laminar flow follows just like if you go on a round pool and start moving in one direction...in the begining it demands energy from you, but after a couple of circles the current forms and you can barely walk without being lifted by the water! From that point on the litle pump is just maintaining the flow, not creating it anymore, so basicaly the inital effort is great but then there is nothing more to it other then keeping it going...

Crazy right! Never tought of it that way but it makes so much sense to me now!

Rod
 
my mag 6 could still blow a hole in the sand on my 220 from one side to the other. i dont think that a Magnum 6 is big enough PH for this size tank. I wouldnt go lower than a magnum7. i'm gunna switch the powerheads in the 55 and in the big tank.. i'll take some before and after shots :)
 
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