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Zoa Lighting selection

I am upgrading my 20 to a 55 for all reef. Have lots of Zoas to move over. Can anyone recomend a light combination. I was thinking of two 150 halides with T5 actinics. Thanks.
 
If you only have zoas I will just buy the t5 fixture. If you have sps or planning in the future then get 250w with t5 supplementation.
 

mikem

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
pnoyreefer said:
If you only have zoas I will just buy the t5 fixture. If you have sps or planning in the future then get 250w with t5 supplementation.

This would be my choice too.
 
welcome to njrc trigger99!

T5 or even VHO would be fine for zoas in my humble opinion. You could set up a bank and even adjust 1 or 2 for actinic. If you go with VHO you won't even need a reflector since the bulbs have them built-in.

With a 55 gallon tank - it's 13 inches front to back and a 150/t5 combo - it's 15 inches front to back right? I'm thinking it'll be too big...
 
Thanks Phil for the reply. You might be right. The width of a 55 may not accomodate a halide/ T5 fixure. I have a 220 which is mainly fish and live rock. That tank has an Aquatinics 14 bulb T5 fixure. Now that I have been bitten by the coral bug, I am upgrading from a small 20 gallon high reef to the 55 for reef only as my Scribled angel has aquired a taste for coral all of a sudden despite feeding her fresh raw clams. I love the shimmer look of halides and would expect to be adding some more complex corals as I progress and continue to empty by bank account. I was therefore being somewhat forward looking by wanting a combo fixure given the value of both Halide and actinics I could place in the T5 slots. Currently on my small 20, I am using a Sunpod 24 inch 150 Halide. It works well and is quite narrow easily fitting atop the 20. Guess I could always buy a second one(the 55 has braces in the middle 24 inches apart) and have one on each side, except then I would have no actinic supplementation.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I need to get out the measurement rule tonight and measure dimensions.
Will revert back to you.
Thanks for the welcome. Pleasure to be here.
 
phil519 said:
welcome to njrc trigger99!

T5 or even VHO would be fine for zoas in my humble opinion. You could set up a bank and even adjust 1 or 2 for actinic. If you go with VHO you won't even need a reflector since the bulbs have them built-in.

With a 55 gallon tank - it's 13 inches front to back and a 150/t5 combo - it's 15 inches front to back right? I'm thinking it'll be too big...

A man after my own heart! ;)

You can get 4 bulbs, 440watts VHO over a 55. Use two ballasts and enjoy an actinic only dusk cycle. You can't beat the color, but will get slower growth.

Check out hellolights for their ARO220 retrokit. You need 46.5" to fit in a standard 48" canopy easily.
 
Thanks everyone for the imput. However, the plan has changed.

I am aborting the 55 gallon idea as its way too narrow and cannot accomodate a 15 inch halide combo. I have now opted for a 75 which is 18 inches wide which solves that problem.

Next for the light. I plan to hang it and am thinking two 150 halides with a T5 combo may be insufficent. I held my Supod 150 above even my 55 and it was not too impressive. So, i thought I may go with two 250 halides instead thinking I will progress into more complex corals as this obsession evolves. My only reservation is that I want no part of a chiller. I have heard mixed views and opinions on whether or not I would need one since the lights would be hung 8 inches above. The tank is in the basement where it stays 65-70 degress all year.

Any one have any advice here. Need to decide soon. Its halides and T5's for sure. Question is 150 or 250 twins.
Thanks mates
 
i don't think you'll need a chiller for a couple 250 watt halides. i had three 400 watters over my tank, plus 440 watts of vho, and i never break 80 degrees. i have a single 12" fan blowing between the lamps and the water, which seems to be enough.

make the transition gradually though, or you'll cook those zoos.
i would suggest the screen method- a few screens placed between the lamps and the water, removing 1 a week.
this will be more effective than lowering the photo period- super powerful lights only blasting you in the face for half the time, will still blind you ;)
sadly enough, i speak from experience :-\
 
I was told (but have no experience with this) that you go to 250's plan on a chiller. sounds like a nice cool place your tank is located may be alright.
 
Just an update to this ongoing saga.

I have opted to upgrade to a 75 gallon from a 55 which allows me to add the type of light I wanted. To that end, I have aquired a dual 250 watt Marristar/T5 fixure which will hang above. With a little luck and a 65 degree basement I will not need a chiller.

Thanks to all for your sage counsel.
 
I have a twin 150/t5 setup on my 65 and wish I had spent the extra to get 250's. The 150's cover the tank and are very bright but the extra wattage would put me at ease if I want to put sps/high light items lower . With the 150's I feel like most light loving corals need to be up high. If its affordable get as good as possible,I was told this and didn't take the advice and now wish I did.
I'll know better on the next tank(hope wife doesn't read this). Paul
 
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