Search results

And that is correct Wendy, but you can increase the throughput with higher temp water. Up to about 90F. Most cold water lines run in the 45F-55F range. Most membranes are rated at a 65F temp. Lower temp, lower throughput because the water is denser. Raise the temp, it thins out and its easier to...

That will work but you need to make sure the temp stays below 90F. Or you will damage the membrane,

That sounds ideal........

Most membranes will operate more efficiently the warmer the water. Most will run well up to about 90F. You could tap both cold and hot water lines and mix but it will vary on you without a temp control. But it is possible. I do this and maintain about ~85F on my 75GPD RO/DI. I typically get...

That would really depend on the size of the pump you use. But if you went with 1.5" you can always reduce it to whatever size you need.

Iwaki, Pan World or even the Reeflo series will work. Just look at the max head ratings. Typically anything with a max head over 20 ft would probably be pressure rated.

I agree with Phyl, I use a mag18 currently. It is useless in a manifold scenario. You really should use a pressure rated pump. Have yet to find a submersible one. So come spring time I'm going to switch to an external pump.

"Goodbye for now" Eric the midget Actor

After you rip it all out......see what your daily calcium uptake is. I would say what your seeing now is entirely possible then if its 60% of your tank.

What is your daily calcium consumption with this growing? without? How much in abundance is this growing? Throughout the tank or just that rock in the pic? If you truly dropped 100ppm in 7 days, thats only 14ppm per day. My 125 consumes twice that daily. What hard corals do you have and how well...

You dont need to buy these controllers if you plan on using this circuit discussed in this thread.

The controllable Tunze pumps do NOT come with a controller. You have to buy them separately. The driver box that comes with the pump has a 5 pin socket in it to connect the controller. This circuit will plug in there.

I am sitting here laughing my arse off. If renee switched to the antithesis of everything she posted, it would be pretty darn close to the description of the circuit. Too funny. Actual Phyllis, your pretty close to the reason. The pump runs continuously without the controller plugged in. So if...

Schematics are a dying art. Typically there are generalized rules. But the biggest is just being as clear and progressive as possible. You can have ten people draw the same circuit and get ten different schematics. And even those probably went through dozens of revisions first. Usually...

Ha, you could heat your tank with that thing...........

For anyone that doesn't understand the electronics end of this but would like too, here is a good example and explanation of this exact circuit: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/555timer.htm#astable

Yeah I figured many would get a laugh from that. If you can get the Tunze Controller down to 1-2 seconds, it would probably work fine. I never played with one of their controllers, so I don't know how low it can go in timing.

In the never ending quest of perfection, since I threw the above schematic together in a moments notice, I have cleaned up the schematic to make it easier to understand. Here is the parts list: D1 1ea. Red or Blue LED 276-307 $1.99 or 276-311 $3.49 SW1 1ea. SPDT Switches 275-612 $2.99 U1...

David, Thanks for the pump. works great. It fit right in the wavebox I made up for the Hydors. With a 2 second pulse, I am getting about a 3/4" wave in my 6 footer. So the circuit I posted above is confirmed to work. Thanks again. -T

I modified malulu's schematic removing the feed timer and used components available at a local Radio Shack. I built one, but dont have a tunze to test it. I will bring it to the xmas party. Here is the parts list: D1 1ea. Red or Blue LED 276-307 $1.99 or 276-311 $3.49 SW1 1ea. SPDT Switches...