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Sorry, I didnt mean to keep moving it up, up and up. What I meant is, once you get it to a level it likes, the color will brighten. Too low and it will darken, to high and it will bleach. If you get it to a high level it likes, lots of owners use these guys as indicators as to problems with...

If you replace the batteries, you should recalibrate before trusting it. This goes for any piece of equipment. Once its calibrated, then test. I usually change my filters once I see any rise from 0.

Beautiful...... I was up there two weekends ago. Never spotted that one.

Just keep moving it up a bit every few weeks. The color will suddenly pop when it likes the light. Also they do get rather long sweepers. So be careful with the neighbors. Other than that they are very hardy. How about a pic?

I have two friends that use these and love them. They don't use any siphon starting pumps. http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html I was thinking of getting one for my QT.

You can look for African Blue Xenia (cespitularia sp?). A true east African species is bright blue with orange polyps under the right lighting. Most available come from the Indo region and are not as brilliant in color. These wont propagate like the standards weed xenia's.

The rarest would probably be Rhizopsammia wellingtoni. It's on the IUCN Red List. http://www.iucnredlist.org/search/details.php/63579/all http://www.arkive.org/species/GES/invertebrates_marine/Rhizopsammia_wellingtoni/

I work around the corner from the one in Langhorne. I stop in there a few times a week at lunch time. Descent people. They welcome the chatter. They get some good corals in once in a while. Nothing good as far as dry goods for the serious reefer though.

Only place in NJ for offroad vehicles other than MX and ATV's is NJORVP in Chatsworth. http://www.njorvp.org/ NJ is way too strict when it comes to offroad vehicles.

Be aware that most 100GPD membranes only reject about 90%......most others reject on the order of 98%. I would go with either a 75GPDsystem or a 150GPD (2 ea. 75GPD membranes) What this means is your DI filter works harder and wont last as long. So if you start with water that has a TDS of...

If you are not in a rush, you don't need the Amquel. You can let it air dry for a week or so, the chlorine will gas off pretty rapidly.

It doesnt matter where it is in the chain, it only depends on what the dips are set too. sw1 sw2 off off A on off B off on C on on D sw3 DC8 off 1-8 on 9-16 sw4 DC8 unused sw3 sw4 DC4 off off 1-4 on off 5-8 off on 9-12 on on 13-16

Can you post the program you entered?

I would say that a bit on the low side. I try to keep mine between 79-80. Plus, where are you measuring the temp? If in the sump, I bet the tank is lower. There can usually be a 1-2 degree temp diff between a tank and sump. Especially if the sump is in a different room or in an enclosed cabinet.

Put the probe in lemon juice for a few days, then rinse in ro/di. If it is a standard probe, it can NOT be refilled. You can store your probe tips in lemon juice for any duration.

What are you using for adjusting alk?

If you cant find a Y, they can be tough to find, go with one inch from the pump to a one inch tee and valves and one inch to the 3/4 inch bulkheads in the tank.

6.5? How are you measuring? When was the last time you calibrated. Ive had two different probes start drifting on me in the last week or so. If it really is that low, I would do a much larger water change and keep the kalk going.

Read up at the beginning of the thread. 3000ppm indoors. Outside measures ~300ppm.

Thats why your burning it up, The pump cant move the flow it wants to so it is cavitating. The mag's are not pressure rated. You need to use a pump for the service you need. If you cant increase the line size, try tee'ing near the pump with a valve to return flow back to the source, this will...