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^^bump^^ $300.00 Final offer.

Kalkwasser, limewater, calcium hydroxide, is a good Ca/Alk supplement to help maintain those elements between WC's. It's really a perfect balance of both Calcium and alkalinity in a single component. Here's a couple articles worth reading: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.php...

Sump for your Ca and Alk, although you might want to add some kalk to your top off water.

Looks good Doug.

You might check you're communities water quality report to see if they have started using chloramines as a disinfectant(vs chlorine). If so, you'll want to go with a chloramine specific system.

Some do, but most will tell you to use RO/DI or distilled water. You should be using a solution that is at the refractive index of the sample you'll be testing @ 35ppt, something like this.

Salifert and Red Sea are both good choices, but I like the Red Sea Kit that contains all three: Ca, Mg and Alk. For the basic stuff, I like the Tropic Marin Kit. For PO4, I'd suggest using a Hanna meter. Do you have some calibration solution for the refractometer?

Here is a potential solution. It's about as compact as you can make two reactors, runs on a single pump, and has individual flow control. http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/Media_Reactor_Manual.pdf

I guess the first question I have is, how big is your system? You can mix the media, as you described in a single reactor in order to keep the GFO from clumping/solidifying. I do believe dedicated reactor's would be best, since as mentioned they would require different flow rates, and...

The first thing that comes to mind with an overflow box using a siphon tube is FLOODING. If you lose your siphon for some reason, your return pump will empty your sump into your DT which will overflow all over your floor, unless you have something to shut the return off.

I always thought it was: Paul ----- Sayreville, and you had to play hangman to guess his middle name. :witless:

When was the last time you calibrated your probe? How old is it?

Assuming your test is accurate: Is your skimmer in good working order? Typically, the reason for a high pH is low CO2 in the tank, which is contrary to what usually happens this time of year with the house all closed up, and higher levels of CO2 in the household atmosphere. The added aeration...

No, I keep filling the 5 gal. bucket until I've removed the 25 gal. of tank water, then add the 25 gal. of make up water.

I make my water right after a 25 gal. WC. I have a 32 gal. Brute with lid that I fill just above the hand holds, and aerate it for a day. I add a little more salt than I need to get a slightly higher salinity than I use. I have two old AquaClear 70 PH's, one for circulation at the bottom, and...

I have one of these.

What's your overflow rated for? That's the first consideration. You may have to use a ball valve to limit the flow from your return pump(another plus to the DC pumps), so it doesn't exceed the overflow capability. I would use circulating pumps to provide the necessary flow within your tank.

Any reactor's you might run, i.e. GFO, GAC, Bio-Pellets, etc. Energy savings is another plus, I just replace two Mag 9's running at ~190W to a single RO Diablo 10500 running at 85W on full power.

Is a manifold to run other equipment in the present/future plans? If so, you might consider one of the larger DC pumps, and use the controller to adjust the amount of pressure you need. If you go with one that is large enough you could run it at a lower pressure for your return, and have enough...

Mine usually stop skimming for a while after feeding.