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not wrong just preference for some people, I have drilled 4 holes without issue in the past. Amado is not wrong in regards to more holes will compromise the glass strength but an additional smaller hole at the top portion for yours would be no issue, IMHO

Ive used ATI and ICP-Analysis, I recommend ATI but I got some Fauna Marin ICP test that I'll be testing out.

I'm a tech geek as well and I enjoy the equipment aspect a lot, I have collected a ton of reef gear over the years but at the end of the day, once you get the hang of things, you'll find out what works for you and your tank(s) and you'll be surprised how little is really needed to keep it...

yeah, I'm not really sure. the DI should usually take out and remaining PO4 in the water and it seems like you have quality containers so I'm not really sure where the po4 would be introduced. if it was trace amounts of PO4 I would think nothing of it but a fresh batch at .29 is weird to me.

I think it is cool, but honestly I don't see the need to constantly measure elements. If there is 1 thing that needs to be constantly monitored it is Alk and even that, I'm already getting tired of. (I have a KHG and considering taking it down since its consistent testing is getting annoying...

hmm, that's interesting, its not uncommon for some PO4 to show up on with RODI water, could be leaching from your container or something but at .29 that's a bit too high. where are you storing your RODI water?

the ELOS should serve you well, I would use citric acid over vinegar on magnetic parts since vinegar can make them swell up.

I suggest getting one of these just to help guide and keep the bit centered. I use it all the time when i need to drill glass and works great. in the beginning don't add pressure, just let the bit to the work, all you're doing is really keeping the drill centered. Also, tape the other side where...

which salt brand do you use? are you using an RO system or RO/DI system?

The Fish House of DELcasso.

which phosphate checker are you using? you mentioned hanna but they have 2 that are mostly used by hobbyist Phosphorus ULR or Phosphate? if its Phosphorus ULR, thats in ppb so need to convert to ppm which converts to .24ppm (still high but notas bad as .77) If its the regular Phosphate...

Paypal has been **** in the past few years. I try to avoid using them when i don't have to.

looking awesome

reefroids will definitely raise your po4 and will feed the corals so its a win win. feed a little more than usual and if you want, take the cup off your skimmer if you have one and adjust it so that its not overflowing in the sump. will help with raising nutrients

I use this for my tank and works great for emergencies, but like saltkreep said, do not run anything expensive on this, just run the bare minimum, the most important thing is gas exchange and temp, run a wavemaker, heater, or an air pump. corals and fish will be fine outwith lights for a few days

I would really advise getting your water tested since it is the only way to really now what's going on. If I had to guess what is happening is that you 0 our your no3 and po4. Corals need nitrates and po4 to carry out their metabolic functions and grow. If you are 0 on both then they will be...

tank looks awesome!

I believe ACC rented them out but I don't know if they still do. a good alternative is Seneye, will provide you enough to know where you are in the tank.

2x a day, mix of pe mysis pellets and seaweed extreme.

I have a SCA-302, if you're interested for $80 and a Eshopps S120 for $100. if you're looking into a brand new skimmer, i recommend Reef Octo, Nyos or Aquamaxx line.