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Sounds nice. Is it rimless? The only thing I think would be of some concern to me would be the 3/4" thick glass, only because of the number of things we like to attach to our tanks using magnets. So, I would probably look at the devices you might want to use and see if what the maximum thickness...

If you have a drilled tank then the Mag 12's could have another potential problem. The standard size bulkheads that are drilled for your overflows are 1", and are rated for a "safe" flow of 600 gph. I know that is a conservative figure, since I'm putting about 750 through mine. With the Mag...

OK, I think I've got a better understanding of your setup, it's not a drilled tank. I would have been surprised if it was since I don't believe that the overflow bulkheads in a reef ready tank would keep up with the amount of water that those Mag 12's would be pushing up into the tank. Assuming...

I have a 180 and am using mag 9's, I couldn't use anything larger as a return, without having to throttle it back with a ball valve. Is it a RR tank, with Megaflow overflow chambers? How are your return pumps set up?

Not me, but maybe someone with a FO or FOWLR tank would take him. Try "Deals and Steals". PS Big Rocks

I figure as long as you don't have to do anything to 'chill' the water, it's all fine. You'd have to heat it one way or another anyway. So, if the mag 9 is a good fit for you, I'd use it.

I think you'd be better off staying with the LPS for now. You don't have to worry as much about the amount of light and more pure water conditions as you will once you start with SPS. Just make sure the fish you have or intend to get are "reef safe".

Ok, your wc regiment and salt are both ok. The reason I asked was that if your are doing weekly wc's and using a decent "reef" type of salt, you really shouldn't need to do too much "dosing" right now, since most of what you'll be needing is in the salt. I have a couple of clams, a few SPS...

I'll bet they used API test kits, didn't they. Having said that, except for the NH3 and NO2 most of the API readings are probably ok. What kits are you using? What salt mix? How often do you do water changes? How much do you change?

The only thing I see that could be creating heat is the Mag 12's. Can you put you hand near them in the sump and feel how hot they are? How close are your return pumps/sump to the DT.

Great pic's.

I guess my first thought would be, "where is the heat coming from in the first place"? What kind of a thermometer are you using? What's the ambient temperature in the room? I have a 180, and even when I had MH's on the tank, with all my pumps being submerged, it would only get up to 82 in the...

The kalk will not raise your calcium or alk, it will just help to maintain it. The importance of the magnesium is to keep the Ca and Alk from binding to each other and precipitating out, making them biologically unavailable to the animals that use them, i.e. LPS, SPS, clams, etc.. it should be...

I have a 5 gal bucket I use for that too, but I don't heat or aerate it. I do that for the water I'm making up for WC's. I usually take the bucket and let it fill with RO/DI, about 4 gallons then add about 2 tsp. of the kalk, I place a ph in the bucket and let it mix, until it's totally...

You could start using Kalkwasser, I use about 1 tsp. a day (in my top off)in a 180. I would get some Mrs. Wages pickling lime, it's food grade and mixes much easier, to say nothing about its being cheaper. You'll need to keep an eye on your pH, because it has a tendency to raise it.

Make sure your Ca, Mg and Alk are all good, using a decent test kit, i.e. Salifert. If they are not in range I'd get that taken care of first.

This is all I use, should be good for most anyone, but I have good city water to start with. If your city's MUA uses cloramines then you might have to get something more specific for that. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gpd-ro-di-4-stage-economy-system.html

You might consider adding one of these at some point: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-di-accessories/dual-inline-tds-meter-dm-1-hm-digital.html and one of these...

Water should flow through the: 1) Sediment filter, 2) Carbon Block, 3) Membrane, and 4) DI resin in that order.

Was it eating at the LFS?