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Needs to be attached to a timer.

I'm not sure I can be much help. I believe both these fixtures have controls built right into the fixture. I'd open them up and using a multimeter, test for voltages. I would guess it's either the control electronics or the drivers that are fried. The other thought is to contract the...

What brand of lights? And when you say wash, did she put them in water? I'm also not aware of any fixture that has a relay.

Jeremy, be careful what you ask for. There are some fish you probably don't want. Damsels come to mine to mention one.

Actually "down" can go fairly quickly. It's going back up that needs to happen slowly.

To re-enforce what has been said, you want to put rock in first so it is in contact with the glass bottom. The issue with putting sand in first and then rock is that any occupant that decides to dig in the sand could easily undermine the rock and cause it to topple over. So rock first then sand.

Yes, you want to raise it slowly....you can go down fast, but coming back up needs to be slow. The easiest and best way to do this, and be slow and consistent is to use saltwater as your top-off water. This way your tank gets a little squirt every so often, slowly raising salinity. The...

The Elephant slug, aka scutus, is actually not a slug. So yes, it has a partial shell which is sometimes exposed, showing a white spot on its back.

I have never, ever seen a black Stomatella. I can't see the picture real well, but my first guess is a sea slug (elephant slug).

A number of factors are used in determining chiller size. I believe there are worksheets to help you figure that out. One critical factor are the type of lights. Interest that I too have a 90, and with the warm weather the past couple days had no problem with heat....but I'm running LEDs...

What size tank? What size chiller? I have a chiller that I used on a 28 JBJ. Without pulling it out, I think it was 1/10 HP.

Zippy, you need to talk to Bob (@radiata ). He too has this fascination with frogs.

Extremely kind of you! My wife is moving in tomorrow! :rolleyes:

If you can, increase the humidity ....it speeds curing. If need be, mist the silicone with water. If you can smell it, it's still doing it's thing.

Joe (@horseplay ) filled you in on the secret of mounting frags....epoxy putty with a dab of superglue. Also make sure you have a decent amount of epoxy to build up on the sides of the frag, and now push that into the intricacies of the rock.

I apologize to all those who have acrylic tanks, or should I say I commend you, but I could never ever keep one.....way to easy to scratch. As it is, I have a glass tank that's loaded with scratches....and I don't know how they got there.

I've got to believe there are more than four of us who have Reef2Reef accounts. Let's show them the NJRC presence. If you're not a member their, I'd suggest you join....it's free, just like ours, and has much to offer.....like our own private section! Check THIS LINK out.

The trick with attaching rock together (whether it's with epoxy or cement) is to use plastic rod. Some have gone out and purchased expensive teflon or nylon rods, but I've had great success with using plastic hangers that I cut into short pieces and then drill the rock with a masonry drill bit...

Nitrites are removed (converted) by the bacteria (Nitrogen cycle) by converting it to nitrate. It's a sign that you cycle isn't complete.....large enough population of bacteria.

Welcome back Dan....and yes, Tale of the Tank is still around....so when you're ready, start up a new Tale.